I am about to buy cams and cam gears and I have done some research and people say you need a FPR and gauge I was wondering if a Apexi SAFC would take place of the FPR. thanks in advance

 

think of what a S-AFC stands for.

then you tell me if a piece of electronic can take a place of a FPR.

 

The FPR will give your engine the added fuel it will need w/ the hotter cams. Unfortunately it does so across the entire rpm range. So you may end up w/ some rich spots in your fuel map.

The safc will fine tune the fuel delivery and squash any unwanted rich spots on the wideband O2 graph when you go to dyno tune them.

So in answer to your question: no it is not a substitue, it should be considered a supplementary tuning device.

 

Blueteg, that was an excellent explanation.


Saved me some typing time.

 

alright so I need both. What brand of FPR do you guys recomend also do I need a gauge inside my car or are there some that are inside the engine bay.

 

u dont need a fpr ifu have a safc.. but if u want a fuel guage u can get a b@m one for like 20 bux, and it goes in the engine bay... or u can get one for inside the car for around 150...


[Modified by DRAG lll INTEGRA, 4:48 PM 11/29/2002]

 

so if I have the SAFC I don't need a FPR.
Also how hard is it to hook up a FPG inside the car

 

No.

As I stated before, for your particular setup, the fpr will be more important than the safc. The safc is just "icing on the cake"-you don't need it, but it will help you tune your package. (why do I feel like I'm repeating myself?)

Here's a link for installing a fp gauge.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/fpgauge/fpgauge.html

 

I read that but drag III integra stated that it replaces the FPR. I only have $ 800 for my set up so I can't get both. I am getting crower 403 cams Skunk 2 cam gears which would work the best does any one else have a set up like the one I want to do?

 

If money is an issue, you can get the B&M FPR modifier for about $65 if you look around, I have seen the S-AFC for about $320, but wouldn't you want a V-AFC if you are going to spend the money. FPR is more important to get the fuel pressure where you need it. As stated before the SAFC just lets you fine tune the air/fuel ratio at different RPM points. The VAFC does the same PLUS lets you alter the VTEC engagement point. Money being an issue, just get the B&M FPR and get it dyno tuned. You NEED to get the cam gear and FPR dyno tuned, and that will cost a minimum $100. Then when you save up some more money, get the VAFC.

 

I have a 94 integra ls. I don't have vtec so the VAFC won't work. do i need a FPG along with the FPR

 

If you will be adjusting the pressure yourself, you will need a gauge ($30) but better to get it dyno tuned anyways.

 

My setup will be similar to what you want to do. I won't have it installed and tuned until January though. I've bought the cams, cam gears, and fpr.....but I still need to buy some other stuff to round off my project.

If I were you and only had $800 to spend on parts (you said you're mechanic buddy is doing the install for free) I'd get this:

Crower 403's ($360 from NOPI)
Skunk cam gears ($220 from just about anywhere)
B&M FPR and gauge ($60 for the fpr and another 30 for the gauge from Modacar)
An hours worth of dyno tuning at one of the local dynojets here in town (about $125)

That puts you pretty close to your mark of $800. Just remember not to rev past redline or you'll be wishing you had sprung a "measly" $300 for the valve springs/retainers. I recommend Street Flight or Technodyne in Tempe for your tuning session.


[Modified by BlueTeg, 7:13 PM 11/30/2002]

 

won't the rev limiter stop me from going since I am keeping my stock ECU.

 

redline = 6800 rpms
fuel cut/rev limiter = 7200 rpms

Your stock ecu won't stop the madness till its too late.



[Modified by BlueTeg, 4:56 PM 11/30/2002]