Suffer with JDM motor swap difficulties or do SOCH Turbo?
I am wondering whether to do a SOHC turbo or a JDM Si swap. I would really prefer to do the JDM swap but am concerned about differences between JDM and USDM motors. I have a 99 Civic EX and really want to get one of those 2nd gen Si engines from osakajdmmotors.com, but I am worried about the wiring and installation. I would like to be able to do the work myself to save some money and learn how to do the stuff at the same time, but I am worried that the JDM wiring will be too much for me. I have compared the pricing and for about $2,150 the JSM Si looks good. If I decided to go for the D16Y8 w/turbo it would cost about $4,400 in the end with new greddy intercooler, new greddy turbo kit, thicker head gasket, and a bunch of other necessities. I know that the turbo will produce more power quickly and that I can do the installation pretty much by myself, but I want a reliable, long-lasting daily driver. I plan to keep this car for a long time because I don't have lots of money and want to make the best decision possible. I am really leaning towards the JDM swap, but if I do will I have problems with the wiring? What else will I need to get? I have heard that I will need a new ECU, is this true? Is there a way that I can do the swap with a couple of friends? What stuff around the basic garage can I use to lift and place the engine? What do I need to look out for? And finally, is osakajdmmotors trustworthy? I really want to do this, but I need to make sure about everything first. I really appreciate any advice that you can give me.
Save yourself the trouble later on and get a B16a2 and leave your options open later on. I have a D16y8 turbo and it is nice, but I miss the sound of VTEC kicking in on a B16 motor. A B16 motor is one of the most reliable motors to turbo due to the r/s ratio. I'm not saying it will net the most power(the B18C1 is best for that), but to me maximum power + reliability =
I am a large fan of the b series motors, turbos arent really my thing.
I think that as far as cost, relibility, and everything that you are wanting to get out of the motor I would recomend a b series swap.
I think that as far as cost, relibility, and everything that you are wanting to get out of the motor I would recomend a b series swap.
I really want to avoid going turbo, but I am worried that the JDM Si engine will be a lot of trouble to do by myself. I am open for suggestions on how to do this with a couple of friends.
I really want to avoid going turbo, but I am worried that the JDM Si engine will be a lot of trouble to do by myself. I am open for suggestions on how to do this with a couple of friends.
THEN WHY DID YOU ASK!!!!!!
Trending Topics
Like I said, I dont have much money and want more power. If it's not worth the swap I can do the turbo by myself. It might be more expensive, but I can buy it piece by piece and the put it all together on a weekend in the end. But I want to have a reliable N/A machine if possible. Turbo is bad ***, but I want to avoid it if possible.
chad, y do u even post if its not something constructive?, but anyway, i am in hte same situation with the D turbo or B series. Personally, i am going D-series turbo. However, not a greddy kit. It would be more cost effective to get a used turbo, buy a new turbo manifold, do some custom piping, get eclispe side mounts (or a spearco front mount if your hollywood), a BOV, injectors and Walbro pump. u can get everything u need for alot cheaper if u look around and buy it in pieces. If your decsion was between the greddy turbo kit and b series, go b series. only get the turbo if u r willing to shop around for parts
"suffer".....dude if you're afraid to SUFFER, drop the wrenches, stop working on the car, and go watch some cartoon-network 24/7
I have a soch turbo....if you don't want to go the turbo root, tell me when you get your si engine in, then we can race...
Turbo. For $742, I have a car that will beat an ITR- powered EG hatch with bolt ons.
Don't believe me? Find someone with said car, and come to Vermont.
As for turbo reliability... It's only stressing the motor if your foot's on the floor. And even then, an engine in good condition running 5- 7 PSI with a poper fuel setup and routine maintenence should last at least 100K miles. Turbos don't blow motors, retards that don't understand turbos do.
A motor swap is the 'Merrican way of thinking- rather than making an engine more efficient, just throw a bigger one in there! **** it, I don't want to learn anything, I just wanna go fast and be dumb. Ugh! And you guys laugh at the knuckle draggers that put 454s in their Camaros. Same thing, different brand. Boost what you have and be happy. You won't gain any weight to affect handling, it's cheaper, it'll be faster especially around town, but also overall, and the sound it makes is way cooler than any VTEC cam.
Don't believe me? Find someone with said car, and come to Vermont.

As for turbo reliability... It's only stressing the motor if your foot's on the floor. And even then, an engine in good condition running 5- 7 PSI with a poper fuel setup and routine maintenence should last at least 100K miles. Turbos don't blow motors, retards that don't understand turbos do.
A motor swap is the 'Merrican way of thinking- rather than making an engine more efficient, just throw a bigger one in there! **** it, I don't want to learn anything, I just wanna go fast and be dumb. Ugh! And you guys laugh at the knuckle draggers that put 454s in their Camaros. Same thing, different brand. Boost what you have and be happy. You won't gain any weight to affect handling, it's cheaper, it'll be faster especially around town, but also overall, and the sound it makes is way cooler than any VTEC cam.
Turbo. For $742, I have a car that will beat an ITR- powered EG hatch with bolt ons.
Don't believe me? Find someone with said car, and come to Vermont.
As for turbo reliability... It's only stressing the motor if your foot's on the floor. And even then, an engine in good condition running 5- 7 PSI with a poper fuel setup and routine maintenence should last at least 100K miles. Turbos don't blow motors, retards that don't understand turbos do.
A motor swap is the 'Merrican way of thinking- rather than making an engine more efficient, just throw a bigger one in there! **** it, I don't want to learn anything, I just wanna go fast and be dumb. Ugh! And you guys laugh at the knuckle draggers that put 454s in their Camaros. Same thing, different brand. Boost what you have and be happy. You won't gain any weight to affect handling, it's cheaper, it'll be faster especially around town, but also overall, and the sound it makes is way cooler than any VTEC cam.
Don't believe me? Find someone with said car, and come to Vermont.

As for turbo reliability... It's only stressing the motor if your foot's on the floor. And even then, an engine in good condition running 5- 7 PSI with a poper fuel setup and routine maintenence should last at least 100K miles. Turbos don't blow motors, retards that don't understand turbos do.
A motor swap is the 'Merrican way of thinking- rather than making an engine more efficient, just throw a bigger one in there! **** it, I don't want to learn anything, I just wanna go fast and be dumb. Ugh! And you guys laugh at the knuckle draggers that put 454s in their Camaros. Same thing, different brand. Boost what you have and be happy. You won't gain any weight to affect handling, it's cheaper, it'll be faster especially around town, but also overall, and the sound it makes is way cooler than any VTEC cam.
nothing replaces displacement
why arent their any 9 sec sohc motors?
Turbo. For $742, I have a car that will beat an ITR- powered EG hatch with bolt ons.
Don't believe me? Find someone with said car, and come to Vermont.
As for turbo reliability... It's only stressing the motor if your foot's on the floor. And even then, an engine in good condition running 5- 7 PSI with a poper fuel setup and routine maintenence should last at least 100K miles. Turbos don't blow motors, retards that don't understand turbos do.
A motor swap is the 'Merrican way of thinking- rather than making an engine more efficient, just throw a bigger one in there! **** it, I don't want to learn anything, I just wanna go fast and be dumb. Ugh! And you guys laugh at the knuckle draggers that put 454s in their Camaros. Same thing, different brand. Boost what you have and be happy. You won't gain any weight to affect handling, it's cheaper, it'll be faster especially around town, but also overall, and the sound it makes is way cooler than any VTEC cam.
Don't believe me? Find someone with said car, and come to Vermont.

As for turbo reliability... It's only stressing the motor if your foot's on the floor. And even then, an engine in good condition running 5- 7 PSI with a poper fuel setup and routine maintenence should last at least 100K miles. Turbos don't blow motors, retards that don't understand turbos do.
A motor swap is the 'Merrican way of thinking- rather than making an engine more efficient, just throw a bigger one in there! **** it, I don't want to learn anything, I just wanna go fast and be dumb. Ugh! And you guys laugh at the knuckle draggers that put 454s in their Camaros. Same thing, different brand. Boost what you have and be happy. You won't gain any weight to affect handling, it's cheaper, it'll be faster especially around town, but also overall, and the sound it makes is way cooler than any VTEC cam.
dude i hate to tell you
nothing replaces displacement
why arent their any 9 sec sohc motors?
nothing replaces displacement
why arent their any 9 sec sohc motors?
The energy released by fuel when it ignites is basically split three ways in an engine- 1/3 is absorbed into the block and coolant as heat. 1/3 is expelled out the exhaust as heat. And 1/3 is used to actually move the piston. Wouldn't it be great if that 1/3 that goes out the ehxaust could be harnessed? Enter our friend, the turbo. On most engines, a turbo is good for 70 HP without really trying. If you put any effort into actually chosing parts that will work with your engine, 100 HP is quite easy to get. For a minimal ammount of planning, you could have a 200 HP D series that retains the stock fuel economy (if you stay out of boost, which you won't), and is as drivable as any other Civic ('till you step on it). You won't have to wait 'till 5000 RPM for the party to begin, like you would with a DOHC VTEC motor. Example- My turbo Z6 sees positive pressure at 2000 RPM, and full boost by 2700. At 2500 RPM, I'm making as much torque as the engine did stock at 4800 or whatever it was, and at 4500 RPM, I'm making as much HP as the engine did at 6200 RPM. And it just gets better from there... Between 3000 and 6500 RPM, I'm making a steady 146 ft lbs. of torque. Now, I dunno about you guys, but I think that's one motherfuckin' daily drivable powerband that a DOHC VTEC engine would have a hard time matching, B20 block or not.
And how much did I spend again? $742. Yep, that's right folks... for the cost of a GSR tranny, I'm putting the serious smack down on B powered hatches. Granted, I did alot of custom fabbing, and in most cases, the cost would be about a grand, but even then, you're right at the cost of just a B16 long block, nevermind the tranny, axles, ECU, shift linkage, and all the other bullshit you'll need to make it work. Hey, anyone know how much an ITR swap would cost? 'Bout $5500 or so before shipping, waterpump, timing belt, plugs, wires, dist cap/ rotor, installation, and anything else that'll pop up (I did the motor swap route before- trust me, **** will pop up).
And how much performance is that ITR gonna give you? 195 HP and 130 ft lbs. Wheee. Oh yeah- did I mention that you have to wait 'till 5000 before you get anything worth while out of that motor?
Let's start modding our engines now! Bolt ons and internal work for that NA ITR motor will give you HP measured in the single digit incraments; double digit if you're lucky. Now how about that lowly turbo D series? Bigger turbo or a larger intercooler? It'd take a real dummy to get less than 40 HP from a turbo or IC upgrade. Granted, by then, you'll probably want to think about stronger internals in that D, but even still, you're looking at WAY under the cost of a STOCK B series swap, and since you built the motor and have a bigger turbo and IC in there, plan on making about 300 HP.
B series what?
nicely said ^
It's all preference though. Personally, I'd rather have the DOHC Vtec AND the turbo.
But at the same time, I wish I could have built a SOHC turbo instead of swapping a Type R..
It's all preference though. Personally, I'd rather have the DOHC Vtec AND the turbo.
But at the same time, I wish I could have built a SOHC turbo instead of swapping a Type R..
Don't get me wrong... I'm not saying turbo D is the be all end all of performance. If you want real power at low pressure ratios, turbo B all the way. But again... we're talking about a cost effective daily driver. Turbo D wins every time.
D16z6 $700 compleate with tranny
turbo $1500 is you pay too mutch in with internals that hold 16 psi
$2200 +13 secound 1/4 mile
and thare are sohcs that run 9's and i saw a sohc turbo dyno at 518 at the wheels
The sohc is a good motor too blow up becouse its cheap and easy too find. If you got tools and the space and really want too learn about how youre car works the the sohc is for you.
edit got hp wrong
[Modified by derrickcxhatch, 8:21 AM 11/28/2002]
turbo $1500 is you pay too mutch in with internals that hold 16 psi
$2200 +13 secound 1/4 mile
and thare are sohcs that run 9's and i saw a sohc turbo dyno at 518 at the wheels
The sohc is a good motor too blow up becouse its cheap and easy too find. If you got tools and the space and really want too learn about how youre car works the the sohc is for you.
edit got hp wrong
[Modified by derrickcxhatch, 8:21 AM 11/28/2002]
A motor swap is the 'Merrican way of thinking.
dude i hate to tell you
nothing replaces displacement
why arent their any 9 sec sohc motors?
Tell me something I don't know. But are we talking about how to build a 9 second car here? No. We're talking about what's more cost effective for a daily driven car.
The energy released by fuel when it ignites is basically split three ways in an engine- 1/3 is absorbed into the block and coolant as heat. 1/3 is expelled out the exhaust as heat. And 1/3 is used to actually move the piston. Wouldn't it be great if that 1/3 that goes out the ehxaust could be harnessed? Enter our friend, the turbo. On most engines, a turbo is good for 70 HP without really trying. If you put any effort into actually chosing parts that will work with your engine, 100 HP is quite easy to get. For a minimal ammount of planning, you could have a 200 HP D series that retains the stock fuel economy (if you stay out of boost, which you won't), and is as drivable as any other Civic ('till you step on it). You won't have to wait 'till 5000 RPM for the party to begin, like you would with a DOHC VTEC motor. Example- My turbo Z6 sees positive pressure at 2000 RPM, and full boost by 2700. At 2500 RPM, I'm making as much torque as the engine did stock at 4800 or whatever it was, and at 4500 RPM, I'm making as much HP as the engine did at 6200 RPM. And it just gets better from there... Between 3000 and 6500 RPM, I'm making a steady 146 ft lbs. of torque. Now, I dunno about you guys, but I think that's one motherfuckin' daily drivable powerband that a DOHC VTEC engine would have a hard time matching, B20 block or not.
And how much did I spend again? $742. Yep, that's right folks... for the cost of a GSR tranny, I'm putting the serious smack down on B powered hatches. Granted, I did alot of custom fabbing, and in most cases, the cost would be about a grand, but even then, you're right at the cost of just a B16 long block, nevermind the tranny, axles, ECU, shift linkage, and all the other bullshit you'll need to make it work. Hey, anyone know how much an ITR swap would cost? 'Bout $5500 or so before shipping, waterpump, timing belt, plugs, wires, dist cap/ rotor, installation, and anything else that'll pop up (I did the motor swap route before- trust me, **** will pop up).
And how much performance is that ITR gonna give you? 195 HP and 130 ft lbs. Wheee. Oh yeah- did I mention that you have to wait 'till 5000 before you get anything worth while out of that motor?
Let's start modding our engines now! Bolt ons and internal work for that NA ITR motor will give you HP measured in the single digit incraments; double digit if you're lucky. Now how about that lowly turbo D series? Bigger turbo or a larger intercooler? It'd take a real dummy to get less than 40 HP from a turbo or IC upgrade. Granted, by then, you'll probably want to think about stronger internals in that D, but even still, you're looking at WAY under the cost of a STOCK B series swap, and since you built the motor and have a bigger turbo and IC in there, plan on making about 300 HP.
B series what?
nothing replaces displacement
why arent their any 9 sec sohc motors?
Tell me something I don't know. But are we talking about how to build a 9 second car here? No. We're talking about what's more cost effective for a daily driven car.
The energy released by fuel when it ignites is basically split three ways in an engine- 1/3 is absorbed into the block and coolant as heat. 1/3 is expelled out the exhaust as heat. And 1/3 is used to actually move the piston. Wouldn't it be great if that 1/3 that goes out the ehxaust could be harnessed? Enter our friend, the turbo. On most engines, a turbo is good for 70 HP without really trying. If you put any effort into actually chosing parts that will work with your engine, 100 HP is quite easy to get. For a minimal ammount of planning, you could have a 200 HP D series that retains the stock fuel economy (if you stay out of boost, which you won't), and is as drivable as any other Civic ('till you step on it). You won't have to wait 'till 5000 RPM for the party to begin, like you would with a DOHC VTEC motor. Example- My turbo Z6 sees positive pressure at 2000 RPM, and full boost by 2700. At 2500 RPM, I'm making as much torque as the engine did stock at 4800 or whatever it was, and at 4500 RPM, I'm making as much HP as the engine did at 6200 RPM. And it just gets better from there... Between 3000 and 6500 RPM, I'm making a steady 146 ft lbs. of torque. Now, I dunno about you guys, but I think that's one motherfuckin' daily drivable powerband that a DOHC VTEC engine would have a hard time matching, B20 block or not.
And how much did I spend again? $742. Yep, that's right folks... for the cost of a GSR tranny, I'm putting the serious smack down on B powered hatches. Granted, I did alot of custom fabbing, and in most cases, the cost would be about a grand, but even then, you're right at the cost of just a B16 long block, nevermind the tranny, axles, ECU, shift linkage, and all the other bullshit you'll need to make it work. Hey, anyone know how much an ITR swap would cost? 'Bout $5500 or so before shipping, waterpump, timing belt, plugs, wires, dist cap/ rotor, installation, and anything else that'll pop up (I did the motor swap route before- trust me, **** will pop up).
And how much performance is that ITR gonna give you? 195 HP and 130 ft lbs. Wheee. Oh yeah- did I mention that you have to wait 'till 5000 before you get anything worth while out of that motor?
Let's start modding our engines now! Bolt ons and internal work for that NA ITR motor will give you HP measured in the single digit incraments; double digit if you're lucky. Now how about that lowly turbo D series? Bigger turbo or a larger intercooler? It'd take a real dummy to get less than 40 HP from a turbo or IC upgrade. Granted, by then, you'll probably want to think about stronger internals in that D, but even still, you're looking at WAY under the cost of a STOCK B series swap, and since you built the motor and have a bigger turbo and IC in there, plan on making about 300 HP.
B series what?
think you could put me a kit liket hat together for me i got like 850 to spend
i am seriously goign to boost my D16 now people are always telling me to jsut swap but i want a fun daily that i can maybe get 13's all day as i put lil more money into it.
i have a RSX type S to drive around other wise so that is going to be my NA setup but i want to boost the D16 care to share what kind of setup you got?
think you could put me a kit liket hat together for me i got like 850 to spend
i am seriously goign to boost my D16 now people are always telling me to jsut swap but i want a fun daily that i can maybe get 13's all day as i put lil more money into it.
13s are well within your reach. Here's my setup: http://thenew.gamesbbs.com/~vassago/turbo.html
Turbo. For $742, I have a car that will beat an ITR- powered EG hatch with bolt ons.
Don't believe me? Find someone with said car, and come to Vermont.
As for turbo reliability... It's only stressing the motor if your foot's on the floor. And even then, an engine in good condition running 5- 7 PSI with a poper fuel setup and routine maintenence should last at least 100K miles. Turbos don't blow motors, retards that don't understand turbos do.
A motor swap is the 'Merrican way of thinking- rather than making an engine more efficient, just throw a bigger one in there! **** it, I don't want to learn anything, I just wanna go fast and be dumb. Ugh! And you guys laugh at the knuckle draggers that put 454s in their Camaros. Same thing, different brand. Boost what you have and be happy. You won't gain any weight to affect handling, it's cheaper, it'll be faster especially around town, but also overall, and the sound it makes is way cooler than any VTEC cam.
Don't believe me? Find someone with said car, and come to Vermont.

As for turbo reliability... It's only stressing the motor if your foot's on the floor. And even then, an engine in good condition running 5- 7 PSI with a poper fuel setup and routine maintenence should last at least 100K miles. Turbos don't blow motors, retards that don't understand turbos do.
A motor swap is the 'Merrican way of thinking- rather than making an engine more efficient, just throw a bigger one in there! **** it, I don't want to learn anything, I just wanna go fast and be dumb. Ugh! And you guys laugh at the knuckle draggers that put 454s in their Camaros. Same thing, different brand. Boost what you have and be happy. You won't gain any weight to affect handling, it's cheaper, it'll be faster especially around town, but also overall, and the sound it makes is way cooler than any VTEC cam.



