I know quite a few of you have the Spoon rear strut tower bar. I just picked one up today and noticed it's a bit loose where the bar meets the legs. Seems like there's some slack almost enough room for a washer or something. Is there suppose to be a washer between the bar and the legs to make it tight? It came with a bolt and a washer, but the washer is too thick to fit inside the legs.. so I'm asuming the washer goes on the outside. Those of you who have the bar probably know what I'm talking about.

 

Tighten it with an Allen wrench cheif...

 

nice bar

 

 

nice strut bar. try tightening it and if that dont work... give it to me

 

i think im the only one whose spoon rear tower bar looks like this when installed.everyone elses comes out of the two covers but mine...any explanations?

 

The instructions that came with the bar have a pic with the rear strut bar on a EK9 and there's a hole cut out like the one you have.. it's got the hole but no removable covers like the Integra. There's also a pic of the front strut bar on a EK9 and the legs on the front strut bar are not as long (it will sit lower). Not sure if the front will fit on the back, but maybe they put a strut bar made for the front on the back?

 

WEIRD

 

damn. that's a big difference too. when did you buy that?


to the guy that started this thread: just tighten it as much as you can with an allen wrench. there wont be any slack.

 

the bar was bought from options auto salon and it is for the rear of a dc2 as it says on the box. I doubt optauto.com would make a mistake by sending me the front bar when i ordered the rear. At the time i ordered it, the spoon front bars were on backorder. I like the way i have the bar installed. It looks a lot cleaner than other installations, and witht he bar sitting lower, it work a lil bit better than if the mounts had longer legs. whats that one proof, "Shortest distance between 2 points is a straight line" right?

 

i have that electronics book in the pic too.

also, are these bars any good even though they have "hinges" that you have to tighten.


[Modified by blufke, 10:53 AM 12/8/2002]

 

you an EE or a compE? the first half of the book was fun, but the second half is kinda difficult...and this spoon bar helps my cars handling substanitally. Even if it does have hinges, the car doesnt flex in those directions so that the joints move.

 

im an EE. taking my electronics capstone next semester( ). would 300 shipped be a good price for the front and rear spoon bars? someone said the neuspeed was better, and it can be gotten for around 100 shipped(front).

 

I was going to buy a Spoon STB, but that's the reason I did not. I am not going to pay $175 for a bar that has hinges and is able to rotate. When the cars come equipped with STB from factory, they are always 1 piece, or like the ITR STB it has 2 bolts at each end making impossible to rotate, unless 1 bolt breaks.
At least the Spoon STB looks good and it's JDM, right?

 

the neuspeed bar gives you the best handling for the price. maybe the best handling since it doesnt rotate or flex. I bought spoon cause i dont like mixing and matching different brands..-)

 

 

haha...I have the same book too! Microelectronic Circuits.. thank god it's all behind me now.. analog circuits was probably the hardest class i took..

 

i thought the civics and the dc2's STB's were interchangeable? but the dc2's have a higher base so it uses the removable plates instead of cuting a hole..?

nice bar btw..was planing to get one soon but blew my piston rings 2 days ago...


[Modified by 10K2HVN, 1:49 PM 12/8/2002]

 

the neuspeed bar seems good. where exactly does it attach? what would be a good rear bar then?

 

yah u gotta tighten the F___ out of it!

 

wow, lotz of ee's on this thread..hehe...

300 shipped would be a very good deal and is the same as what groupbuycenter.com is selling the F ($160) & R ($140) set for. so if you are getting it at some indie shop or chain, see if they can do better.

in terms of what type of STB would be most effective in the rear, i'm partial to designs that don't have hinges or bolts. so a simple design like the mugen or carbing rear STB this is a solid piece of steel/aluminum connecting the rear towers would theoretically be most effective. only drawback is it sits closer to the trunk floor, so you can't fit as many tall items deep into your trunk.

 

I am still looking for a good bar. The Mugen is the best, but it costs $300!!!

I read something VERY dumb on another board about some guy testing different STB like the stock GSR bar, the DC, and a fake ITR STB by stepping on it along its WEAK axis. That's is plain stupid!!! Those bar are designed to work along their STRONG axis ( X-X axis) and NOT their weak axis (Y-Y). Any tubular type STB like the stock GSR is very strong. Don't trust me? Go TRY to bend one, along its strong axis that is!!! All structural materials are designed to work along their stron axis. How are 2x4's laid down to support a floor?