Talking about first timer, here I am, got something to share after some long research and info gathering. I have pieced together a homemade/junkyard turbo kit. All parts are self fabricated except where items listed as new or modified.

Here is the link to a preview of some of the pictures I took from my homemade/junkyard turbo project: http://members.aol.com/hcvong/TurboProject/index.html

The following are the items I have made or bought thus far:
- Ported T3 Turbo .63/.60 (junkyard)
Mated from center catrige off a volvo to Turbine & Comp. Housing of a Ford
- Log style manifold with external Tial wastegate port (diy)
- 35mm Tial Wastegate - modified/custom 3psi spring (new)
- 2.5" Downpipe (diy)
- 1.5" Dump tube (diy)
- 2.5" Piping (diy)
- Front mount intercooler with 2.5" pipe end tank (diy)
Volvo 36 rows intercooler core, cut & mated into a 17 rows with custom end tank
- 1G DSM BOV (junkyard)
- Vortech SFMU (new)
- MSD 6BTM (new)
- Autometers Gauges (new)
A/F, Boost, Oil Pressure
- Oil feed & return line (diy)
- Remote oil filter (new)
- Modified Missing Link (new)
Replaced internal rubber valve (crap, it felft out) with parts (diaphram & spring) from a check valve
- Apex WS exhaust (2 years old)


Items still needed in order to support for targeted 5-7 psi of boost daily driving:
- Inline fuel pump
- 310 cc Injectors

The following items are in future to do list :
- oil cooler off a DSM (Turbo Eclipse I think from a junkyard)
- electric boost control
Pressure switch, electric direction flow control 2 ways T (whatever this thing called)
- water/alcohol injection
Mist nozzle, intank fuel pump (modified max psi release spring),
- AEM EMS

I already have the turbo system installed and it is boosting at 0 psi =D (I got tricks under my sleeve to protect the the turbo from over spool, so I can drive my car to work). Once I have the SFMU and MSD 6BMT installed I can finally say I'll be boosting at 3psi, then probably running 5-7psi after inline fuel pump and injectors installed. I also need to fabricate a new a pipe going from the compressor 1.5" pipe to 2.5" pipe inlet intercooler and the pipe for the filter (still analyzing what's the best way to route the pipe to the filter with the cramped engine bay)

ps: more pictures, document write up and update will be posted whether it's a total failure or success I've been reading a lot of threads in this forum and other message board, but never particpate in any conversation in the past year. So I thought this should be my little contribution. And I'm telling you, you'll need a lot of patient to fabricate your own turbo kit, especially a first timer like me

Best,

-- Knowledge is a tool to our survival

 

Very nice will be joining you soon

 

Looks awesome! Very similar to the setup I'm doing. Keep us posted as to how it goes!

 

Interesting.. I like what you did with the intercooler. Have you pressure tested it yet? Where are the rest of the pics? ( the big ones )

 

Fabulous shift ****. Nice job on everything.

 

With the lack of diskspace provided by aol, I just sign up a new free webspace and I've upload the rest of the missing big pictures here: http://hcvseik.9cy.com/TurboProject/index.html

There is one more set of pictures that sit in my brother computer and still yet need to be uploaded.

This is how the cost of my project rounded up:

T3 Turbo $92
DIY Logstyle manifold $80
Tial external wastegate $250
1G DSM BOV $8
Custom down pipe $50
Custom FMIC $30
Custom charge pipe $70
Vortech SFMU $290
Missing Link $50
Custom oil lines $100 +/-
---------------------------
Basic LP Turbo $1,020


In line fuel pump $200*
310cc injectors $330*
MSD 6BTM $340
Autometer Boost gauge $50
Autometer AF $50
Safety Items $970
----------------------------
Complete basic Turbo $1,990

Mig Welder $300
Argon Gas Bottle $90
Grinding machine $60
Air tools $100
Air compressor $250
Dremel $70
----------------------------
Total hardware invested $870

Grand total $3,880

* estimated/have not spent

Thank for the nice feedback. I have not pressure test anything yet, I only do a liquid leak test, so I don't know much much psi the intercooler hold up , Most likely that will be another mini project to build a pressurize test tool

ps: Quite busy at work, but at least will be getting off early tomorrow to start early thanksgiving, so I will be finishing up the rest and have more update.




[Modified by seiGSR, 4:34 AM 11/27/2002]

 

What diameter tubing did you use for the manifold? 304 stainless? or mild steel?

 

Did you paint the turbo?

 

looks good keep us updated.

 

Keep it up.. i've got the exact same turbo your using with a half core off a Isuzu NPR Truck. (cut the ic in half and had endtanks welded). With a couple extra's... i ran like that for a while till the #4 ring land gave up... 115K miles on the motor 50K turbocharged...
anyhow.. the motor is built with hondata.
Same T-3 .63A/R on exhaust 60 trim T-3 junkyard turbo and half core off NPR
258 whp @ 10lbs and more importantly
180-190 ftlbs from 3800-7700
keep it up

 

Hi everyone, just want to give you an update,

I finally got the pipe from compressor to intercooler installed -- found this piece off a turbo saab, 1.5" diameter and it's 95% fit (about 1/4 in short). I finally got boost past the zero mark! 5psi without the FMU install (only for a few second), but everything went fine with some headache on the SFMU installation. The custom 3psi wastegate spring is a little bit weak and it's start to open way too early, so make some tweak and got it to spool past 2psi between 3-4k rpm. To avoid wastegate open, I have decide to create an electronic boost control similar to the stock Turbo Saab (with a pressure switch and the boost selenoid control off the saab at the junkyar. I will give more update when I have a chance to test this)

Still need to install MSD 6BTM and waiting for my fuel pump to arrive before I'm boosting past 5psi. Overall, the kit come out pretty good considering I did everything my own and it's my first time (turbo, welding, junkyards, etc.) After a week and a half of driving, I finally see flaw of welding of the manifold- smokes coming out from little holes near the welding area from the pipe to the flange. I also need to weld a flex-pipe from the down-pipe to the cat (have a feeling one day he downpipe might fall off due to vabratiiong)

And it's hard to resist boost when the darkside is calling, it's way addicting when you hear the turbo spooling and the blow off valve (whhoossssssss) 1G BOV is loud.

ps: I've also update some pictures and add more write up. I do like to paint everything to avoid rusty look and the paint have been holding up pretty well.

 

it was possible to weld your intercooler with a mig welder ?? any problems with it burning through ?

 

For aluminum, it's quite hard (especially thin metal mated to thick metal sheet with different base metal) and you'll need to have the right setting (wire feed rate & voltage setting). I must admit, it took me many tries and errors before I get it right, plus grinding and shaving off excessive welded puddles. I burned through one section on my first try so the intercooler is one row short

ps: I found it's easier to dip transfer (whatever the method called) compared to spray transfer on thin sheet metal.

 

very nice job. Good luck.

BTW, what is the diferce between the Vortech SFMU , and the regualr FMU? besides hte price of course.

 

Thank, I have a lot of fun fabricating it.

The vortech SFMU is adjustable and it comes with different disks and springs (12/8/6:1) which can replace your stock fpr. The regular FMU comes with only one disk (6/8/12:1) and it's fixed. For the price, SFMU is quite useful if you need to make fuel pressure or rising rate adjustment.

 

it's another slow weekend for me; This is what I'm testing. . .

A home made electronic assisted boost controller. I have two versions, 1 stage and 2 stages (with relay). Because I'm using a too soft spring (3psi), I have to re-route the compressed air to help keeping the wastegate shut to reach my desire boost 5psi. It took me a few try and design to confirm and verify it's working. I have not turn up the boost past 5psi, so I don't know how effective it is in the higher boost level. Not bad for a $30 spent. And this can also be use in-conjunction with a manual boost controller (boost bleeding) to avoid boost spike.

cheer