Taking off A/C
OK I am going to be doing a swap really soon and was thinking I was going to just ditch my A/C (doesnt work anyways) And was wondering with taking out all of the lines and what not what I would have to do?? Or dont it matter? Should I plug the lines?? What about the lines that lead into the blower housing?
Thanks
[Modified by Vinceg99, 1:43 AM 11/23/2002]
Thanks
[Modified by Vinceg99, 1:43 AM 11/23/2002]
There really isnt even much pressure there.....Some place told me that whoever I bought it from may used some other kind of thing in it?? (not freon) But I guess it has the same affect on cooling as freon but very illegal??
So then I can just unhook the lines and the blower motor (well into the box) open?
[Modified by Vinceg99, 2:08 AM 11/23/2002]
So then I can just unhook the lines and the blower motor (well into the box) open?
[Modified by Vinceg99, 2:08 AM 11/23/2002]
Trending Topics
So nothing else that I have to worry about then? Just take it all off and go??
So nothing else that I have to worry about then? Just take it all off and go??
basically... just watch out for the freon.. dont forget to take out the condensor and all the lines to the firewall.. your all set
basically... just watch out for the freon.. dont forget to take out the condensor and all the lines to the firewall.. your all set
couldnt have said it better.
I left the two holes that go into the firewall where the condenser lines went open, I too was wondering if I should plug them with something?
edit: forgot to mention that I decided to be atmosphere-friendly and have
a shop evacuate the freon legally with a machine. it doesn't take any time and only cost me $15. just in case you're worried about the ozone (i'm not really) or something
[Modified by uncleben, 2:32 AM 11/23/2002]
edit: forgot to mention that I decided to be atmosphere-friendly and have
a shop evacuate the freon legally with a machine. it doesn't take any time and only cost me $15. just in case you're worried about the ozone (i'm not really) or something

[Modified by uncleben, 2:32 AM 11/23/2002]
yeah if you read my earlier post I had stated how a shop said that it might not be freon in there and they didnt even want to try to take it out just incase it was flammable or something?? I might take it somewhere else and see though.
Just use a long screw driver, you will be ok. If you do it yourself make sure you don't get it on your paint. I also left the hole in the fire wall open uncleben.
I have been considering taking mine out too... I have an 88 HF, and I dunno if I will just wait till I swap it or what, but it can't be too complicated lol... Famous last words, but owell... I will prolly take it as well and have them discharge it...
This project is so simple I can do it with only 3 wrenches and a Schrader valve tool for the FREON. Legally you are supposed to have a pro take the FREON out, but some people just release it from a cracked fitting or pipe. BTW: The parts are actually worth a good bit-I sold mine easily on one of the boards (compressor and bracket are worth $90).
You will need to either find a donor car without AC or buy the 2 grommets from the dealer. These 2 are required-one for the hoses and the other for the drain tube. Another thing, you have a choice on whether you take the evaporator case out or not (I did)-if you have a non-AC donor you can get the connector tube that goes between the blower and the heater box to replace the case.
Now to take apart time: Take the AC fan out and find the wiring harness. You want to save all of the pieces including the part that goes thru the firewall and the relays.
Now that there is NO freon in the system you can disconnect the fittings on the pipes. 1 pipe runs in front of the radiator and you will want to move the rad out of the way-you can either drain it and take it off its hoses and get it completely out or just gently tilt it back after taking the core support and hood latch support out - so that you can lift the condensor out. Be sure to save ALL of the O-rings and hardware. The Belt adjuster is a fun item-you put a wrench on the pulley bolt and loosen it then crank down the adjuster so that you can take the belt off. Then you take the 4 mounting bolts off the compressor and after that you can remove the bracket.
To work under the dash-remove the glove boxand the metal bracket going across. You will find the retaining hardware on the evaporator case easily enough and with it sitting on the floor you will find the wiring harness connections that you need toget at. If you decide NOtT to get the grommets and duct piece (bad idea in my opinion)tape up the tubes coming out of the housing and reinstall the case. Why do I recommend this-you can get a lot just for this part if in excellent condition. The duct may be available at a dealer-some keep these things lying around.
Hope this is a good overview for you. Takes about 2 hours to do it right the first time. Helm will be very useful or a printout from the dealer of parts locations.
Good luck and have a happy holiday
Difficulty scale:
You will need to either find a donor car without AC or buy the 2 grommets from the dealer. These 2 are required-one for the hoses and the other for the drain tube. Another thing, you have a choice on whether you take the evaporator case out or not (I did)-if you have a non-AC donor you can get the connector tube that goes between the blower and the heater box to replace the case.
Now to take apart time: Take the AC fan out and find the wiring harness. You want to save all of the pieces including the part that goes thru the firewall and the relays.
Now that there is NO freon in the system you can disconnect the fittings on the pipes. 1 pipe runs in front of the radiator and you will want to move the rad out of the way-you can either drain it and take it off its hoses and get it completely out or just gently tilt it back after taking the core support and hood latch support out - so that you can lift the condensor out. Be sure to save ALL of the O-rings and hardware. The Belt adjuster is a fun item-you put a wrench on the pulley bolt and loosen it then crank down the adjuster so that you can take the belt off. Then you take the 4 mounting bolts off the compressor and after that you can remove the bracket.
To work under the dash-remove the glove boxand the metal bracket going across. You will find the retaining hardware on the evaporator case easily enough and with it sitting on the floor you will find the wiring harness connections that you need toget at. If you decide NOtT to get the grommets and duct piece (bad idea in my opinion)tape up the tubes coming out of the housing and reinstall the case. Why do I recommend this-you can get a lot just for this part if in excellent condition. The duct may be available at a dealer-some keep these things lying around.
Hope this is a good overview for you. Takes about 2 hours to do it right the first time. Helm will be very useful or a printout from the dealer of parts locations.
Good luck and have a happy holiday
Difficulty scale:
What are the gromments that your talking about? Just something to plug the holes? And also the duct piece that runs between the blower and heater boxes what happens if you dont ge this? And how hard is it to put in? Will I need to completely replace the blower box from a non-a/c car? Thanks for your input so far.......
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Eyewitness
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
25
Jul 16, 2002 11:29 AM




