Okay, on all the swap guides and info I've seen here, it's generally recommended to take out either just the passenger's side and/or the driver's side dust ring depending on the axles and intermediate shaft. Now, what I don't understand is how this helps anything. Am I missing something?

The instructions on the Hasport website say to, "For a good fit, the axles and car will have to be modified by removing the spacer in the hub and removing the dust seal on the outer joint. See the illustrations below."

The illustration shows the removal of the spacer/dustring on the hub which I assume is the large metal ring which is easily popped off the hub. Along with removing the little rubber dustring on the axle. Is this all I'm supposed to do. If so, I don't see how this helps anything. With the dustring on the axle removed and the outer ring/spacer/dustring on the hub removed the axle does NOT sit any further into the hub. The outer ring on the hub is just for keeping dust out, the axles does not sit against it! Am I supposed to take another spacer/seal off of the hub. What am I missing?

 

I've tried it with the dust ring in place and with the dust ring removed... mainly because I thought I could get away with not removing the dust ring.

The axles wouldn't turn by hand

But feel free to try it in your application... if you can get away with not removing it more power to ya buddy.

 

My point is, I have removed it and it doesn't help. And I thought about it and looked at it and NO, of course, it doesn't help cause the dust ring which you have pictured DOES NOT space the axle in the hub. It is NOT a load bearing member of the hub assembly, it's just a dust ring. What are we missing? Yes, if we were to remover the outer ring/seal of the actual hub/bearing assembly in addition to the dust ring on the hub, this would bring the axle into the hub more. Is this what we're supposed to do?

 

You're only supposed to remove the dust ring as well as the single ring-spacer thingie on the axles themselves.

I'm not sure if this is a factor, but the new axles are much beefier than the old. I'd assume that means that they are also wider at the knuckle end, which may force contact with the dust ring due to their girth, not necessarily their depth. From what I remember, that dust ring is tapered & curved, which reinforces this theory.

Pic: I believe the dust ring is still installed in this picture.




[Modified by raene, 12:19 PM 11/20/2002]

 

Now that makes sense! Girth not depth. Thanks.

 

NP... remember that's a guess not an answer though

 

I removed both seals on my car, and I still had problems. My passenger side wheel would not spin by hand at all, and the driver side would not turn to easily either. When the axle nut was not tight it would be fine, but as soon as you tightin it, the axle pushed so much against the hub/knuckle it would not move. I hear alot of people have this problem, and everyone I talked to just left it like this. But I was not going to because, I figured if it was rubbing then it would also slow me down. So I thought, maybe I should get the hub/knuckle assemble for an si. Well turn out I would be paying like 600$ from honda, or like 150$ from the junkyard. Well I really did not feel like trying to get these off at a junk yard. So I came up with a solution, it worked really well. Now I am not going to say what I did cause I will get flamed and everyone will say how bad it is or what ever. So I will save myself the hassle. Anyways if you really intrested in how I did it. Email me at bigbob152000@yahoo.com , or aim me at sdbigbob.




[Modified by 90blackcrx, 10:02 PM 11/20/2002]