Okay to start, this is my first Honda. I bought it already modified. To the credit to the seller, he told me about the problems and provided receipts for all the work done to the car. The key didn't start the car, had to jump the starter. Wired in a push button start and it works... So long as the check engine light isn't on. I've looped the obd1 wires and it stays solid when cranking, no flashes. Everything I look up brings me to random videos.
https://youtube.com/shorts/038XvPOFrIw?si=OvF9tbeAkaXLy4RY
Video of what's going on.

 

You said it was able to start when you jump the starter? Or was it just cranking?

Do you have spark? Do you have fuel?

 

It just cranked and cranked. No start.

 

Could be the plastic ignition switch itself is sloppy. They wear out and don't make contact. Turned to II its fine, turned to III it cranks but power to the rest of the ststem drops out.

Does the tach flutter or move when cranking the engine?
That would indicate a problem.

 

No. The tach doesn't move. Me and my cousin are considering getting another ECU or having this one flashed and anti theft disabled.

 

Stock 1995 Accords didn't have the Immobilizer (anti-theft) system.

 

So it sounds like it's my ECU... Goody...

 

Not necessarily the ECU. It still can be due to other things.

 

To me, sounds like the wiring at the ignition switch is messed up. Besides cranking, the key needs to complete the ON circuit, or you need to jump those wires to power up the ECU and supply power to the fuel pump and ignition relays. If you aren't powering up the ECU and those relays, it will still crank but you won't get fuel or spark or a running engine.

 

Yes, it may be the wiring is messed up to the main relay or ECU; or faulty ECU; or faulty main relay.

From your youtube video, it seems there is no fuel.

What theYBLEGAL said is on point to complete the start circuit.

The following is link from the Wayback Machine regarding how the Main Relay circuit works.

https://web.archive.org/web/20080605...ion/index.html

 

Normally,during start, power goes to the ECU and Main Relay; the Check Engine Light will come on and go off; ground is sent from the ECU to the Main Relay. The fuel pump will then get power after that.

 

I've resoldered the main relay. Checked the ignition wires entirely (they're good), and pretty much did everything y'all are suggesting. It all goes back to the same, ECU is having issues. The following is what happens
Key in ignition. Turn key to II. Check engine light comes on. Fuel pump kicks on. Check engine light stays on. Press button. Engine cranks but doesn't fire. Leave key at II for 10 ish minutes. Check engine light goes off. Press start button. Car starts.

 

Hmm. In that case, it might be ecu related. Inside the ecu, check the condition of the capacitors. If they are leaking, replace with same spec caps. There is also an integrated circuit, IC17 responsible for regulating voltage. That can cause fuel pump prime issues and a slow-to-turn-off check engine light. Check that. Google searching P28 IC17 repair will get you plenty of info

Imo, 'retail' refurb ecus are overpriced. Used oem ecus are a dice roll. Do your best to fix yours. Since you can solder. Caps are cheap. IC17 is cheap off ebay usually.

 

Have you replaced the ignition switch?
They wear out and cause all sorts of electrical issues.
Its ~$20 from rockauto.

 

Did you resolve this issue?

 

I think I should have clarified, had it soldered. I know the basics of how disorder but this was something I had to take to somebody who knew more.

As for the ECU, me and my cousin said screw it and ordered one from Georgia, about 5 hours away from us. Waiting on it to show up now. And since we're waiting we have decided to do the rear main seal because it leaks from there. Only problem we are having right now is that one of the sensors doesn't have a way to pull it apart.

 

No clue what this sensor is called, help please.

 

Looks like reverse light switch.
Follow the harness, there will be a couple of bullet connectors. Not typical plastic connector.

When installing the new RMS, a pvc sewer pipe coupler is the perfect size.

 

 

Out of everything, I didn't even think of that...

 

Okay. So... I'm an idiot. The ECU is just the wrong one all together. It'll run and drive just fine but I'm back to square one. By chance does anyone happen to know the factory ECU part number for a f22b2 with a manual trans? Because Google is giving me several different numbers and my brain hurts...

 

37820-P0J-A10

 

I call shenanigans... But. F*(/ it. If check engine light comes on I'll just turn the key to on and wait 10 minutes. Because for some reason whatsoever that works. Ish.

 

37820-P0B-A01 is what Google tells me. So... No clue what to do here.