Hey all! I have a strange one here.

So my girlfriend has a CD7 accord with the F22B1. I have been doing work on it because its in rough shape and I want her to have a smooth daily.

Anyways, I replaced the VTEC solenoid and oil pressure switch because it was bleeding terribly and was throwing a code. After I replaced it, I have been dealing with a misfire.

You can be driving the car and it will start to sputter and backfire and once it gets to about 1.5K RPM it kicks back up and catches itself. Sometimes it behaves worse, sometimes it barely does it.

I have since then replaced the distributor, plugs, plug wires. I made sure the dizzy was properly timed and there are no oil on plugs.

Any help would be greatly appreciated !

 

I just cleaned the EGR ports... they were super clogged and dirty. It misfires a little bit less, but still hasn't fixed my issue completely. I am going to buy a genuine honda VTEC solenoid and oil pressure switch when I get paid. Till then, anyone have other ideas?

 

If VTEC functions, engine revs above 4000 easily, no point in replacing those expensive components. VTEC doesnt affect engine running below ~2700 rpm. Id the actual solenoid was leaking the gasket screen can be replaced. No need for a new solenoid. Oil pressure switches do tend to leak and must be replaced.

Verify all your grounds/bonds are reinstalled. The engine mount has a #6 gauge wire that goes from the body side to the engine side of the mount with a smaller wire that attaches to the cam/valve cover. This needs ro be present as the cover is electrically isolated otherwise and can cause capacitove noise in the electrical system, including misfires.

Ive had spark plug wires be bad out of the box.
Some of the aftermarket plug wires do not have properly shaped boots that do not fit in the spark plug wells properly. They tend to pop off, and cause misfire issues. Verify the wires stay on the plugs and dielectric grease is used on the boots.

Sumitomo wires are OEM
NGK wires fit as well as factory.
United Motor Products 'PACKARD' wires are good quality as well.

Check your cap and rotor, some of the caps that come on rebuilt distributors are flimsy.

EGR functions at part throttle and will affect part throttle cruise. That whole removable EGR manifold should be cleared of all carbon soot. Each port in the manifold itself should also be cleared out. And they are different sizes. Pull off the EGR valve itself and verify that the feed port is also clean.

 

UPDATE: This is crazy. I'm lost

Here's what I've done now. Used an entirely different intake manifold. I cleaned all the intake ports, cleaned all the EGR ports again as well as the actual EGR valve itself with a Dremel tool. It came with the whole fuel rail and fuel injectors too. I cleaned the injectors and I also replaced the fuel filter. Cleaned the IACV while I was at it.

I also found a sensor under where the intake manifold is connected to the engine. The wire going to it was completely broken off and I did a repair on it. Someone tell me what this sensor is because I can't figure it out.
I also found some vacuum lines around where the intake air box is just hanging loose and a sensor was unplugged from there. I connected the sensor and one of the vacuum lines I just plugged the hole since it was exposed.

I switched back to the previous OEM distributor as it gave no problems before and actually looked like it was rebuilt when I took it apart. I also replaced the plugs and wires AGAIN.
Even went as far as using a new genuine OEM Honda VTEC solenoid as replacing the old one is what caused the misfire in the first place.

With all this I still have a misfire guys. I checked all the plugs/connections. No vacuum leaks whatsoever *actually idles lower now than before*. I'm really confused here.

Some things I want to point out.
1 . - Misfire occurs maybe 5-7 minutes into the drive pretty much once the car has warmed up.
2. - Sometimes the CEL comes on and its code 1 "Heated Oxygen Sensor A".... I have the O2 sensor but the thing is so rusted on there me and my buddy were moving the entire exhaust trying to break it loose so we left it be since we didn't wanna risk breaking anything.
3.- Oil Pressure light flickers when car gets to low idle at times. Don't know what that's about as the car has plenty of oil and I often check it.
4.- I've found out if I let the car sit and idle for a while AFTER its warmed up, sometimes it won't misfire for the rest of the drive....
5.- Again it misfires at low rpm and light throttle until the car reaches 2.5K RPM and it picks back up and stops the bogging.

This car is an automatic as well. At least VTEC sounds nice! Any insight would be GREATLY appreciated guys

 

If there is a code issue, fix that first.
The pipe the O2 is installed in should be readily removable to better work on it. Or buy a replacement section for ~$40 and just replace along with a new O2S. This will most likely solve your running issue and the CEL.

Idle should be ~700. Use a proper diagnostic tach, factory tach can be off.

Sensor on the side of block above oil filter is oil pressure switch for dadh oil light.
If it is weeping/leaking it is most likely bad and should be replaced.

Original Honda distributors are best. Some of the aftermarket 'new' distributors are junk, and beside cap/rotor, dont use standard replacement parts.

When was the last time valves were adjusted?

For the transmission.
Verify the throttle cable between throttle and transmission lever has no slop but is not pretensoned. Verify the lever on the trans returns when off throttle.
Remove slack from throttle pedal cable as well.