Apparent Ground Issue
Hello! I was hoping someone might be able to tell me if they think I'm on the right track or not. A few years back, yes years, my check engine light came on. Took it to the dealer and they informed me the evap cannister and solenoid needed to be replaced (was giving a P1457 code). I was informed by a trusted friend there was no reason to have the cannister and solenoid replaced so I didn't. Fast forward to today. The car has been having some very interesting electrical issues seemingly indicating a grounding issue (multiple phenomena with vaious components like windows, headlights, dashlights and the side airbag light coming on and off).
However, I went back to another forum and was reading that if gone untreated a short circuiting solenoid can fry the ECM and that a fried ECM can cause a pseudo grounding issue. Has anyone heard or seen this happening? Knowing all of this could someone tell me if they think I'm heading in the right direction. Also, for further information I have replaced both the alternator and the 7 year old battery.
Any help would be appreciated and please be kind as I'm a 100% amatuer just trying to hang onto my Accord a little longer.
However, I went back to another forum and was reading that if gone untreated a short circuiting solenoid can fry the ECM and that a fried ECM can cause a pseudo grounding issue. Has anyone heard or seen this happening? Knowing all of this could someone tell me if they think I'm heading in the right direction. Also, for further information I have replaced both the alternator and the 7 year old battery.
Any help would be appreciated and please be kind as I'm a 100% amatuer just trying to hang onto my Accord a little longer.
To my knowledge, the air bag system is completely separate from the ECM, ........so based on your description, I would not pursue the ECM fried theory. An intermittent bad ground is much more plausible in my opinion.
Intermittent issues can be very hard to diagnose with certainty. You will need a wiring diagram to find the ground points of the systems in question, and see if they have the same path to ground or grounding point. If so, isolate those wires and "point" and inspect them.. If the systems don't have anything in common, concentrate on one and sometimes you will find an issue to all of them if you are lucky. Like maybe a rat or squirrel chewing a harness. Good Luck. I have access to a database that gives me many wiring diagrams, If you don't have this, maybe someone here can help tell you where to find the reference material you need.
Intermittent issues can be very hard to diagnose with certainty. You will need a wiring diagram to find the ground points of the systems in question, and see if they have the same path to ground or grounding point. If so, isolate those wires and "point" and inspect them.. If the systems don't have anything in common, concentrate on one and sometimes you will find an issue to all of them if you are lucky. Like maybe a rat or squirrel chewing a harness. Good Luck. I have access to a database that gives me many wiring diagrams, If you don't have this, maybe someone here can help tell you where to find the reference material you need.
Thank you for the input. Am I correct in believing a fried ECM could still trigger the warning lights on the dash to come on and off? I know the systems are separate but they run off the same voltage so if there is an issue in the ECM, the SRS could detect that and make the side airbag light come on and off, correct?
I'm only asking because all of the electrical issues started occurring at the same time. I know its possible for them to be all unrelated but it seems unlikely due to them all occurring after the car started throwing the P1457 code.
List of issues:
I'm only asking because all of the electrical issues started occurring at the same time. I know its possible for them to be all unrelated but it seems unlikely due to them all occurring after the car started throwing the P1457 code.
List of issues:
- driver side window very sluggish going up (windor regulator replaced. no improvement)
- headlights flicker while operating power windows
- passenger side headlight doesnt come on sometimes (comes on with a smack lol)
- all dashboard lights went out including speedometer and tach (car didnt lose power and radio was still on). After I arrived home car would not start back up. Came out a hour later and car fired right up.
- side airbag light goes on and off sporadically. Can stay off for weeks at a time.
- weak cranks in cold weather
Last edited by HallofAccord; Jan 27, 2026 at 01:19 PM.
Well, ........I can't say anything for certain. All I can tell you is what is based on my experience from years back turning wrenches.
Any evaporative emissions code that I ever ran into was related to a faulty gas cap or one that was not put on tight. Based on what you have told me in your last post, I would take a Volt/Ohm meter and check the resistance from a ground point on the engine to the ground terminal on the battery. The resistance should be zero or close to it. If not check for corrosion in the both battery cables. If all this checks out OK, your starter may be drawing too much current, but the cables are much more likely to be the issue. It would explain a lot.
You will need an inductive pickup to measure the current draw from the starter.......When all these other electrical systems start to go "bad", try to blow the horn. If the horn doesn't work , then power to the fuse boxes or a cable to the fuse box may be suspect -- both at the battery (if it is designed this way) or at the underhood fuse box. (bad connector) ....... These intermittent issues are really hard to find. You may need some hands on help. That's really all I have for you on a forum.
The only other thing is to open the ECM and see if the circuit board looks "burned." If none of these suggestions helps, even Honda says in the factory service manual to replace the ECM with a known good unit and retest. I just don't think it is likely given that windows are not controlled by the ECM. Even late model cars that have delayed window operation or "roll up the windows" on locking have separate control modules to my knowledge. Again good luck.
Any evaporative emissions code that I ever ran into was related to a faulty gas cap or one that was not put on tight. Based on what you have told me in your last post, I would take a Volt/Ohm meter and check the resistance from a ground point on the engine to the ground terminal on the battery. The resistance should be zero or close to it. If not check for corrosion in the both battery cables. If all this checks out OK, your starter may be drawing too much current, but the cables are much more likely to be the issue. It would explain a lot.
You will need an inductive pickup to measure the current draw from the starter.......When all these other electrical systems start to go "bad", try to blow the horn. If the horn doesn't work , then power to the fuse boxes or a cable to the fuse box may be suspect -- both at the battery (if it is designed this way) or at the underhood fuse box. (bad connector) ....... These intermittent issues are really hard to find. You may need some hands on help. That's really all I have for you on a forum.
The only other thing is to open the ECM and see if the circuit board looks "burned." If none of these suggestions helps, even Honda says in the factory service manual to replace the ECM with a known good unit and retest. I just don't think it is likely given that windows are not controlled by the ECM. Even late model cars that have delayed window operation or "roll up the windows" on locking have separate control modules to my knowledge. Again good luck.
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