I have gotten myself into a crazy situation. I was sold a b18a1 block with a 1995 head, supposedly gsr pistons, other goodies, super clean for an insane deal. I’d like to swap it into my ek, but I am now confused. I was trying to find out if my engine was obd1 or obd0, but the head is probably from a b1 since the year stamp is from a 95. I think I have gotten myself into a massive headache. Should I just try and clean the engine up and resell it? Or how do I figure out if my engine is obd1 or obd0? If it’s obd1 I’ll consider doing the painful work. Could I also get a b18b1 block and transfer my internals and head? I really don’t know and I was promised that this would be an “easy” swap.

 

You are looking at this all wrong... the tail doesn't wag the dog, the dog wags it's tail !!! The engine can be anything you make it as long as you use the appropriate sensors and electrical components that compliment your ECU choice. Do you intend to run this engine with an OBD-2A or OBD-1 ECU ? Are you going to modify your original engine harness to fit the new engine ?

 

@JRCivic1
I’d like to use an obd1 p75 with a jumper harness. Im willing to go either way either way the harness, I could customs wire it to the d series harness or if I find the correct adapter I’d go that route.Could I swap my sensors out for ones on a obd1 b18b1? The motor came with no dizzy or alternator.

 

Get an alternator and distributor that matches the year of your car. Everything else should be plug and play...maybe extend some wires but nothing crazy.

 

Does all this stuff apply if my cars a 1998 obd2a?

 

Use an OBD-2A -> OBD-1 ECU conversion harness so that you can plug your OBD-1 P75 ECU. The engine harness will plug into an OBD-2 distributor and alternator... even though they function JUST LIKE OBD-1 parts... as in, internally they are the same. The only difference is the plug style on the outside. Fuel injectors will also have different plug styles, and you cannot use those found on a D16Y7 engine because they are smaller than those found on the Y8 engine. Your B18A1 block may have the fan switch mounted on the back of the block near the #2 cylinder (large round sensor with two male bullet connectors facing out) instead of on the thermostat housing like everything OBD-1 or OBD-2, so you will have to lengthen those two wires and change the plug style (or find a newer thermostat housing with the fan switch mounted on it AND has the same number of outlets for other cooling hoses as the one you have). Lastly, since you are going to use the OBD-1 style ECU, you can ignore the CKF plug over near the alternator and the Knock sensor... they will not be recognized by the ECU.

 

If I could get confirmation on if all the info I’ve collected is correct,
I can run all my intake and head sensors with the obd 2a d16y7 harness.
I extend my fan switch wires to connect to the 2 bullet connector on my block, ignore the knock sensor and the sensor with green plug.
I still have to use my crankshaft position sensor under the timing cover.

please Correct me if I missed anything

 

Use a pr4 or p75 obd1 ecu, match the injectors, distributor and alternator to the year of your car/harness.

 

You WILL NOT use the crankshaft fluctuation sensor under the timing cover (all necessary sensors are inside the distributor). The TPS and MAP sensor plugs are the same, although you will have to open up the wire loom to peel back these wires so that they will reach. The IACV 3-wire plug on the Y7 harness has to be converted to a 2-wire round plug... you will NOT use the orange/black wire. At the ECU end, you will move the blue/black wire on the right side of the orange/black wire and re-install it on the left side of the orange/black wire (move from position 14 to position 12).