No start, no spark, no switching signal. 1997 Accord EX 4cyl Auto.
Please pardon this rather detailed note...
My Accord sat in my driveway most of this year as I have rather slowly done suspension and brake work. Recently I went to start it. It did start, but the engine tried to die if not nursed with the accelerator. But then after turning it off it now won't start at all.
I started some bdiagnosis and found no spark at the plugs. Then followed procedures in https://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2200-2300/honda-ignition-system-tests
Results:
- no spark at the internal ignition coil when crank
-I had a spare internal coil so changed it out but still no spark at coil.
- verified had 12 volts reaching the ignition coil with key on but not cranking.
- Found no switching signal in the yellow green stripe wire in distributor when cranking. (I used a multimeter in the hertz frequency measuring mode)
So I understand issue could be
-a bad crankshaft or other sensor within distributor
- a bad ECU
- a wiring problem
After market distributors at available without spending an arm and leg so could try that if I remain stuck. https://www.ebay.com/itm/232010189920
Other info:
I had a small mouse nest by the injectors but I do not spot any visible wire damage. But thinking should test integrity of some key wires. (And need to come up with plan for that.)
Also maybe important: I can't get a scan tool to read codes for this OBDII car. Have tried both basic consumer reader (Autel MA309) as well as a fancier android scanner (Xtool A30M). Both power on but then show "Connection failed". But honestly I never tried to scan this car before so don't know if this would be new behavior.
Additional: Battery is newish and easily cranks car. I do hear the fuel pump when turn key to on but haven't tested fuel pressure. Have not done anything to test injectors. As have focused on "no spark".
So I'm hoping some wiser person might take in the potent hints here and offer a good guess about my problem! Or at least priorities on what to do next. But if the best bet is to get it towed to a real mechanic, so be it...
PS I had an earlier post https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/use-remote-starter-engine-tests-3382774/ But now have a more defined issue.
My Accord sat in my driveway most of this year as I have rather slowly done suspension and brake work. Recently I went to start it. It did start, but the engine tried to die if not nursed with the accelerator. But then after turning it off it now won't start at all.
I started some bdiagnosis and found no spark at the plugs. Then followed procedures in https://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2200-2300/honda-ignition-system-tests
Results:
- no spark at the internal ignition coil when crank
-I had a spare internal coil so changed it out but still no spark at coil.
- verified had 12 volts reaching the ignition coil with key on but not cranking.
- Found no switching signal in the yellow green stripe wire in distributor when cranking. (I used a multimeter in the hertz frequency measuring mode)
So I understand issue could be
-a bad crankshaft or other sensor within distributor
- a bad ECU
- a wiring problem
After market distributors at available without spending an arm and leg so could try that if I remain stuck. https://www.ebay.com/itm/232010189920
Other info:
I had a small mouse nest by the injectors but I do not spot any visible wire damage. But thinking should test integrity of some key wires. (And need to come up with plan for that.)
Also maybe important: I can't get a scan tool to read codes for this OBDII car. Have tried both basic consumer reader (Autel MA309) as well as a fancier android scanner (Xtool A30M). Both power on but then show "Connection failed". But honestly I never tried to scan this car before so don't know if this would be new behavior.
Additional: Battery is newish and easily cranks car. I do hear the fuel pump when turn key to on but haven't tested fuel pressure. Have not done anything to test injectors. As have focused on "no spark".
So I'm hoping some wiser person might take in the potent hints here and offer a good guess about my problem! Or at least priorities on what to do next. But if the best bet is to get it towed to a real mechanic, so be it...
PS I had an earlier post https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/use-remote-starter-engine-tests-3382774/ But now have a more defined issue.
That guide doesn't give the specs for the Ignition Coil, and says an intermittent failure should be tested at complete failure.
Per Helms pg 23-104:
F22B1 primary 0.45-0.55 Ohm secondary 16.8-25.2 Ohm
F22B2 primary 0.64-0.78 Ohm secondary 14.4-21.6 Ohm
If your only a little off, you get an intermittent failure. So, you need to be precise in measuring and if not in spec then replace with a new Ignition Coil.
Per Helms pg 23-104:
F22B1 primary 0.45-0.55 Ohm secondary 16.8-25.2 Ohm
F22B2 primary 0.64-0.78 Ohm secondary 14.4-21.6 Ohm
If your only a little off, you get an intermittent failure. So, you need to be precise in measuring and if not in spec then replace with a new Ignition Coil.
[QUOTE=97 Accord EX V6;53010609] Thanks for those specs. I'll measure. I did try swapping out the coil with another that I thought was good. But best to confirm
One thing worth checking is the acg fuse under the dash. If that blows you’ll have no spark. Sounds to me like most likely the dizzy is the culprit just from my experiences. I’ve also had new out of the box dizzys have no spark. If you have 12v to it and no spark it’s almost always the dizzy.
On more thing to verify just for sanity’s sake is make sure the cam and distributor are turning when it’s being cranked. I’ve seen one motor that bad a stripped timing belt and it wasn’t actually moving the cam but youd hear it sound like no compression when cranking.
On more thing to verify just for sanity’s sake is make sure the cam and distributor are turning when it’s being cranked. I’ve seen one motor that bad a stripped timing belt and it wasn’t actually moving the cam but youd hear it sound like no compression when cranking.
After market distributors [are] available
Over the past 25 years I've replaced the internal seal twice (it's a Nissan part, Altima uses the same Hitachi base and shaft and rotates same directionas Honda V6), external shaft o-ring 4-5 times, bearing once, external ignition coil 3 times, ICM once, and the connector once (I repinned OE to use Fastronix Weather Pack). I could say I am still using the original distributor but it's kinda the Ship of Theseus at this point.
I would not recommend buying an aftermarket distributor.
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