I have a 94 accord LX 1.6L
It goes through intermittent phases where It will start and immediately die. It doesn't usually happen until I'm far from home. I finally have to have it towed home, where it will run fine for a few weeks before it does it again somewhere else. It did happen once in the driveway so it isn't actually dependant on distance.
I've checked the obvious things. Starter switch, main relay, distributor, I even sent the computer to be re-conditioned. Every time I replace something, I think it's fixed until it does it again.
I finally hooked up a logic analyzer to the computer. I can see the pulses to the fuel injectors stop but I don't know what input to the computer would be causing it to stop. I suspect a bad connection somewhere that's causing the computer to stop sending pulses to the injector but I don't know what signal the computer would be expecting. Something that it wouldn't need to start but needs to keep running. I'll attach the running and failing logic analyzer captures.
Any one have an idea what signal might be the culprit?

 

It sounds like the classic symptoms of an ignitor. American cars call this an ignition control module. Basically it is the electronic version of the old points inside the distributor. It says you replaced the main(Fuel pump) relay (???) but, that is also a known problem. That is my experience with these rides, based on your description.
Ignitor

Fuel pump relay

 

Oh, one other thing, ignition switch base. Try moving the key a "bit" to see if you lose power to the dash.

 

I didn't mention it but I did try replacing the ignighter before replacing the distributor.

 

Well, this is beyond my experience and I can only tell you some theory.

The computer will ground the injectors based on various sensors like camshaft position sensor etc. If the computer does not have any codes to give you about which sensor it doesn't like, then one doesn't have a place to start with.
At this point even the Honda factory manuals will tell you to replace the computer with a known good unit and retest. This is difficult to do if you don't work at a dealer or used car lot. I know you said you had your computer reconditioned, but if the solder on the circuit board is not perfect, it will not perform properly. You are in a bad spot and will have to guess..... which is expensive and might not work.. When the car dies you need to check for spark right away, and also put a "noid" light at one injector to help you find out whether it is spark or fuel.......Not always easy to do with intermittent issues.. Good luck.


That's all I got for you at this time.

 

Have you check for fuel pressure? Your pump may be going bad. It can overheat with low fuel. The fuel acts as a heat sink. Try to see if it runs differently with a low tank versus a full tank. But check for fuel pressure anyway. I usually just loosen the 17mm banjo bolt at the fuel rail and see if gas comes out during cranking, This is not a proper way to do it based on the tort lawyers though.