Hi this is a long shoot ,,, i have an 1999 Honda Hr-v and this model never enterd the nortamerican market BUT im preatty shore the ABS system is simular on these years ,,my, absproblems on my 1999 HR-V .is the codes 54-01 Fail safe relay failure
61-01 Battery Voltage Failure both fuses it engine room are okay and messures good but when il use livedata on my scanner il get a reading for the abs pump motor and it shows 0.00 v so theres clearly my problem ,, il got several codes from the abs system earlyer so il swapt the abs unit but still wont get it to work ,, does anybody have any adiea wheres this power that are missing comes from ? i need to seartch it down and dont know where to begin

 

Hey, sorry to hear about the ongoing ABS headaches on your '99 HR-V—sounds frustrating, especially after swapping the unit. Since the first-gen HR-V (GH series) shares a lot of its ABS setup with other late-'90s Hondas like the Civic, CR-V, and Accord (all using similar Bosch or Akebono-style modulators), the troubleshooting paths overlap a ton. I'll break this down based on the codes, symptoms, and what you've already checked (fuses good, voltage measures okay, but 0V on pump motor live data). The missing power is almost certainly upstream of the ABS modulator—likely a relay, wiring/ground issue, or voltage drop under load—rather than the battery or main fuses.

Quick Code Breakdown:

• 54-01 (Fail-Safe Relay Failure): This points to the ABS fail-safe relay (also called the ABS main relay or solenoid relay in some docs). It's an internal safety cutoff in the modulator that disables the solenoids/pump if it detects a fault. But on '99 HR-Vs, this relay is often integrated into the modulator assembly (not a swappable part like in some Civics). Swapping the unit should've addressed it if that was the core issue, so we're likely dealing with a feed problem to the relay circuit.
• 61-01 (Battery Voltage Failure): This is the ABS ECU (in the modulator) detecting low voltage at its power input—specifically, it drops below ~10-11V during operation or cranking. Even if the battery tests "good" at rest (12.6V+), it can sag under load from a weak battery, bad alternator ripple, or poor connections. This often triggers alongside pump issues since the motor needs steady 12V to spin.

The 0V on the pump motor live data screams "no power getting to the motor circuit." The pump motor draws big amps (~5-10A when running), so any resistance in the supply path kills it. You've ruled out the obvious fuses, so let's chase the power source.Where the Missing Power Comes From (and How to Trace It)The ABS pump motor gets power like this on '99 HR-Vs:

1. Battery positive (+) → Main fuses → Ignition switch → Under-hood relay box → ABS pump motor relay → Modulator/pump.
2. Ground side: Direct to chassis/body ground near the modulator (usually G101 or similar on the firewall/engine bay side).

Key power path:

• Battery to fuses: Via a heavy red cable to the under-hood fuse box (battery fuse #1, 100-120A main; #15 or #19 for ABS-specific, 30-50A).
• Ignition-switched power: From ignition switch (white wire) to under-dash fuse #4 (7.5A, for ABS ECU control).
• Pump motor relay: In the small black relay box on the passenger-side strut tower (near battery). It's labeled "ABS pump motor relay" (part #39794-S04-003 or similar—cheap, ~$20). This relay energizes the pump when the ABS ECU calls for it.
• To modulator: Orange or red wire (pin 1 or 30 on the 46P connector) carries 12V to the pump. The ECU (pins 21/22) grounds the relay coil.

Since live data shows 0V at the pump, the relay isn't closing or there's a break in the feed. Here's how to hunt it down step-by-step (tools: multimeter, test light, wiring diagram if you can grab one from Helm Inc. or a free PDF online for '99 CR-V as proxy).Step 1: Double-Check Voltage at Key Points (Load Test the System)

• Battery under load: Even if it reads good static, crank the engine and watch voltage—shouldn't drop below 10V. If it does, test alternator output (13.5-14.5V running). Low cranking voltage often sets 61-01.
• At the ABS modulator connector (46-pin plug on the unit—unplug it with key OFF):
  • Key ON: Check pin 30 (red/orange wire) for 12V (battery voltage, ignition-switched). If 0V, trace back to relay output.
  • Ground pin (usually #46 or black wire): Should have <0.5Ω to chassis ground. Clean/tighten G101 ground strap on the firewall (corrosion here is common on '90s Hondas).
• Pump motor directly: With connector plugged in, key ON, use your scanner to activate the pump test (if it has bidirectional control) or jumper the relay. Probe the pump wires (thick red/black pair) for 12V while commanding the pump on. 0V? Relay or feed issue.

If voltage is good at the battery/alternator but drops before the modulator, you've got resistance—move to wiring/relay.Step 2: Test the ABS Pump Motor RelayThis is the #1 suspect for 0V at the pump—it's external and fails often from age/heat.

• Location: Small relay box on right strut tower (kick panel near battery). Pop the cover; it's the larger relay (next to the horn relay).
• Swap test: Pull it and swap with the horn or radiator fan relay (same type). Turn key ON—does the pump voltage jump to 12V on live data? If yes, replace the relay (~$15-25 at RockAuto or Honda dealer).
• Bench test: If swapping doesn't work, jumper pins 30/87 on the relay socket (thick wires) with a fused wire—should send 12V straight to the pump. If live data now shows voltage, relay coil or ECU signal (pins 85/86) is bad.
• Pro tip: Listen for a click from the relay when you command the pump on via scanner. No click? Bad relay or no ECU signal (from low voltage/61-01).

Step 3: Wiring and Connections (The Sneaky Culprits)'99 HR-Vs have brittle wiring in the engine bay from heat/age—check these hotspots:

• ABS harness: From under-hood relay box to modulator (firewall-mounted). Look for chafed/frayed orange/red power wire (common rub on bracket). Tug gently—any breaks?
• Battery cables: Clean/tighten terminals (especially the ABS ground strap bolted to battery negative—it's separate from the main chassis ground). Corrosion here causes voltage drops.
• Under-hood fuse box: Wiggle the ABS fuses (#15/19, 30A) and main battery fuse (#1, 100A). Even if they "measure good," heat can warp sockets—pull, inspect, reseat.
• Ignition switch: Weak switch can cause intermittent low voltage to ABS ECU (fuse #4 under dash). If you have dash lights flickering, replace it (~$100 DIY).
• Continuity test: Key OFF, unplug modulator. Check continuity from relay output pin to modulator pin 30 (should be <1Ω). No continuity? Open wire—splice/repair.

Step 4: Clear Codes and Retest

• After fixes, clear codes with your scanner (or jumper the service connector under the dash for ABS—paperclip on pins 1-4, key ON, watch light blink twice for clear).
• Drive cycle: 10-20 miles mixed city/highway to relearn. Recheck live data—if pump voltage holds 12V during test, you're golden.

Other Possibilities If That Doesn't Nail It

• Weak battery/alternator: Even with "good" readings, replace the battery if it's >3 years old (Group 51R for HR-V). Test alternator ripple (<0.5V AC) at the battery—high ripple fries ABS ECUs.
• Modulator solenoid issue: If power's good but pump won't run, the internal solenoids might be stuck (code 54-01 trigger). But since you swapped units, this should be ruled out unless the new one's DOA.
• ECU in modulator: The control unit might be sensing phantom low voltage (bad cap inside). If all else fails, send the modulator to a rebuild shop like Module Master or UpFix (~$200-300 vs. $800+ new).
• Rare: Bad brake fluid level switch or accumulator pressure sensor fooling the system into fail-safe.

(Grok AI via x.com)

 

Thanks il regognize knowledge when il see it ,,, and here its present ,,, well i used honda OEM flowcharts for these 2 codes and they all enterd out for perfection ,,, then il continued to messure in the absconnector ( not mentioned in any step of the flowchart exept for posetive ) and found a intressting value at the negative side ,,, theres two thin cables that serves the abs modulator as are grounded at the backside of the fusebox and found .700mohms and searched down every diagram of this unit in the manual but all i could find was a plain earth symbol ,,, not any values ,,, since this is a mitsubishi unit il suspeced a possible resistorcable to ground and since i couldent find any ohm value i simple cleaned ground connector and the metal where it attechd with an M6 bolt and "voila" it start working ,,, the big ischuee here it that i have total thrust in OEM flowchart and since its aint includes in non of them il totallt missed it at a start ,, simple electric basics are *what goes in must come out** lesson learnd and i will never thrust a flowchars blidly again ( sorry for bad spelling ,, am from sweden ) the ground point is G201