I had tried out a bottle of Chevron Techron high mileage additive and things got bad. The car had 172k on it and I got some gas while having a very empty tank and first emptied the bottle then filled up. Less than 1 min after cranking the engine light came on and the code read P1259.
Looking up the recommended fixes both on my bluedriver tool and an online search, it mentioned changing the oil. So I did and the code cleared for a little while but then came back on with the same code. It feels like its stalling when I try to accelerate at times. Definitely feels less responsive than before.
The next recommended fix was to change the Engine Variable Timing Solenoid, this I havent tried yet.

Before I do replace it with a EVTS part off amazon or something does anyone have any advice on what else to look into to restore the performance?

 

Generic description is generic.

These cars have VTEC, part of the system has an oil pressure switch. If low oil and subsequently low oil pressure, this will not close VTEC pressure switch. This prevents VTEC operation which prevents higher engine speeds to prevent damage due to a lack of oil pressure.

Highly unlikely Techron in the fuel system caused this.

 

Thanks Mike, its been one thing after the next with the engine codes.

P1259 code- I replaced the Engine Variable Timing Solenoid and the code went away and it ran much smoother...for about a month.

New engine codes:
P1399 Misfire in any cylinder
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
Now its bucking / sputtering/ rough idling when I initially start it up. It runs rough for less than a minute usually and then smooths out. It doesnt have any idling or running issues when driving, just at start ups.
The bluedriver recommended fixes were to replace spark plugs and to try replacing the direct engine coil

So far I have cleaned the spark plugs and rechecked gaps and cleaned the contacts off in the distributer cap and rotor, and its still having the issue.

Before I replace more parts, what would you try from here?

 

When is the last time the car had a FULL tune-up?

 

Thanks for the reply,

On May 19, 2012 I replaced the distributor housing, Distributor Cap, Distributor O-Ring, Rotor Cap all OEM Honda parts.
Used NGK plugwire set RC-HE73 and NGK G Power spark plugs at 116,800 miles. (now its at 173,871)

I dont know if that counts as a tune up but thats what Ive done last.

On May17, 2023 it was leaking oil and the engine temp was spiking in heavy stop and go traffic and had me concerned so I took it to a shop and the shop found the following:
Found multiple oil leaks the Engine Variable Timing Solenoid was leaking the worst, Valve cover and Power Steering pump was also leaking.
They also asked me about when the timing belt was last replaced. It was at 102k and was in 2010.
They recommended replacing that as well.

So they replaced:
Camshaft Adjuster Solenoid
Engine Variable Timing Solenoid (that the same solenoid I just recently replaced).
Drive belt alternator
drive belt for power steering
Power Steering Pump & Seal and front seal
Timing Belt Kit w Water Pump w Tensioner springs
Counter Balance Shaft Seal
Thermostat & Gasket
Valve cover gasket set
Camshaft seal

Cost me $2500

 

If the last tune up was done in 2012, I'd say you need to do plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and the air filter before you proceed any further.

Cleaning the plugs and cap/rotor are not going to do anything to help. They need to be replaced.

 

When the timing belt was replaced, did they check and adjust valves?
If not, they suck.
Valves should be checked every 30K miles. IIRC FSM stayes 90K, intake is usually fine its the exhaust valves that wear and receed which then will hang open and cause a misfire.

How clean is the throttle/butterfly?
If it gets sooty it can cause rough idle or sticky throttle. Don't spray down the throat, get a rag soaked with TB cleaner and wipe the edge of the butterfly and the bore of the TB.

Check your throttle cable, it should not be slack nor pretensioned.

If your ignition is pushing 90K miles, its time for new wires plug cap and rotor. Aluminum terminal caps tend to get 'boogers' on the inside, you can scrape them off with a screwdriver for the interim.

I would also suggest removing the upper plenum from the intake manifold and cleaning the EGR port out. It will become sooty and carbon fouled which will cause a lean misfire during cruise.

Check the Accord FAQ at the top of the page for info on the above.

 

They suck. Called them this morning to check. They changed over systems in 2024 and the records cant be accessed. I described what I have on the invoice as far as parts and labor description and he believes that since it was not listed in the invoice that they did not do any valve adjustments.

Ill be getting the supplies for a tune up and checking the throttle body and cleaning it up.
On the EGR valve, I had taken it off when I replaced the Engine Variable Timing Solenoid and sprayed brake cleaner to clean it out into the base of the valve while I had it off.
To clean the port, Ill look for info on how to remove the upper plenum of the intake manifold and do the cleaning you recommended.
Here is a pic of the engine..where is the upper plenum? I see the throttle body housing with the cables all attached to it.


I watched this video and thought "I can do this" and then found that there are more lines/obstacles on my 2000 accord than the one he is working on


That angled hard line that crosses over, I would think Im supposed to remove it but Im not sure if I should or how to?



I looked in the FAQ section and didnt see any how to's on my year.
Anyone know of a good example that will help me?

 

Well, after putting in a search for my engine F23A4 I did find this video that shows the removal of the throttle body and clean it.
This shows me what I didnt realize was that there is no plate under the fuel rail that sits on top of the intake to clean.






This is what my throttle intake looks like without removing it. Not too bad I guess.

 

F23A does not have individual plugs(F22A) nor an EGR manifold(F22B), its just a single port...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post45133950

That should link to post #20 which shows the 98-02 F23A EGR system.

Adjusting the valves is very easy, I'd reccomend bent feeler gauges as they will clear the valvetrain for easy verification. Check clearances with the engine cold.

 

Thanks Mike, I was going to order a gasket set, offset feeler gauge set, and one of those adjusting tools.

For the gasket set I saw this and I think it has all I would need?

The offset feeler gauge, Im not seeing a specific .30 or .26 but Ihis set has a .305 and a .254 which I guess is close enough given the .02 +- ?

This is the sticker under the hood for the spec



Last is that tool for the nut on the valve.
Is the nut 10mm on my F23A?

 

I did get things going this weekend, and in the process had a hose break that I cant identify. It goes to the throttle intake housing. I guess its a vacuum but did not know if I need a specific hose part or just replace it with a standard vacuum line. Its got a 90 degree bend to it. It may be fuel related. It connects from a sensor there in the pic and connects to the throttle intake

 

That's the EVAP purge solenoid. If you can't get the exact hose for it, fuel vapor resistant hose would be recommended, as it passes vapors from the evaporative emissions system, so will have fuel vapor.

If you can't get that hose in particular, just make sure to make it longer so the hose doesn't kink on the bend.

 

Thanks RCP!

 

Also, I was initially doing the adjustments based on a video for a F22 engine since I didnt see one for an F23. The video showed the method of having the flat end of the lobe on the cam at the top and the pointed side pointing 180 degrees from the top and in the oil below.
Then I found a service manual pdf for 98-2002 Accord that showed the steps to get each cylinder at top dead center.
The lobes though I noticed were not pointing straight down when I adjusted to the 180 degree spots that the service manual for each cylinder. I assume the service manual is right and that is normal to see. Ill post a few pics of the manual for reference

 

Both are correct. As long as the lobe is not on the tappet, the valve clearance can be adjusted on those valves.

The service manual is actually very similar for both the F22 and F23, as they have the same firing order. The slight differences in both are just adjusted for other differences in the engines. Even the difference between VTEC and non-vtec is negligible when it comes to the valve adjustment. They may differ with the clearance value; but they are essentially the same.

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Thats good to know thanks.
I did the best I could to get the tallest point of the lobe 180 degrees facing downward into the oil on the cylinder I was working on, but when I went back and used the service manual the adjustments I made prior eyeballing were off a good bit.

 

That would be expected, as only one set of lobes would be 180°, the other set of the cylinder to be adjusted would not be 180°.

You would have to do each set of valves individually, instead of setting the cylinder to TDC, and adjusting the respective valves shown in the service manual.

 

The valve lash adjustment went great, the upper intake was removed and cleaned out, the egr port on the manifold was cleaned out w carb cleaner and a large bendable pipe cleaner and the blown out with compressed air, new distributor housing, rotor cap, plugs and wires replaced.
All put back together and it is running so much better. Thanks fellas for the help!