My newest acquisition is a 91 accord with the 4spd auto with the power switch. 222K miles.
It still shifts fairly smoothly, but can be a littler harder shift into 4th gear.

I assume that the trans fluid has never been changed as I am just now in the process of replacing the timing belt and it is super old and cracked Possibly the original as my last car had the original belt that I replaced at 250K miles.

I don't drive automatics but I picked this car up for a get me by for 6 months until I have my black/grey 93 up and running. (pulling out the auto to put in a stick as well as repairing some front end damage (143k miles).

**The questionsThe fluid is a little older, but looks okay and no burnt smell.)
Should I bother to change the fluid at this point, or will I cause damage to the trans by using new fluid?
Do I need to replace the filter, or is this just a metal screened filter, rather then a paper filter?
The Chilton manual says to use Dexron ii. Is there a particular fluid that I should be using or just any that say for Dexron ii? I don't want to pay the $$ for Honda fluid and I think that is just required from 2011 and newer.

Is there anything that I am overlooking?

 

You have to do multiple drain and fills to change the fluid. You should only use Honda ATF. The filter is not serviceable.

If it's not having issues and the fluid looks acceptable just leave it alone. I have seen them go 300-400k+ miles without ever having the fluid changed and it's still fine.

 

Thank you. I will just leave it alone

 

Typical 'death' of the 90-97 H4A automatic is 250Kmiles with no service.

The problem is not that there is any failure in the trans, it's a hydraulic issue.

Without fluid changes the accumulation of particulate matter, clutch material, in the sump will eventually plug up the sump pickup filter. No fluid flow, no function.
This is not a readily serviceable component. Without opening the case, or carefully drilling a service hole under the screen to manual clean, there is no way to unplug this screen.
To prevent particulate matter buildup, drain and refill.

After a total fluid change I prefer to freshen the fluid every 10K miles with a simple drain and refill.

Best to have the left side slightly higher before draining to encourage particulate matter to drain. Case shape has the sump as the deepest part, but the drain is slightly higher on the right side.

Drain fluid, wipe drain plug(magnetic) off. Reinstall, refill, and drive to activate all gears. Manually shifting to verify fluid flows through all the circuits is a good measure. Get the car up to speed to activate 4th gear.
Also Reverse and Neutral to purge old fluid.
Do this 3xs for minimum fluid change. It's more of a dilution as one cannot readily drain all the fluid out at once.
During this procedure, adding SeaFoam Trans-Tune to aid in varnish reduction between fluid changes.

Filling up to within the hashed area on the dipstick is fine. However I have found if you live/drive in hilly areas, the transmission seems to work flawlessly if you fill to the upper most mark. This has improved overall functionality on my two Accords, '95 EX coupe and a 97 EX sedan.

Also verify your Transmission cable, not shifter, is properly adjusted, along with throttle cable.
Transmission cable should not be slack nor pre loaded. Lever should begin to move as soon as throttle body begins to open.
On AT cars the TB cable is somewhat divorced from the TB. This allows independent adjustments of the TB to trans cable from the throttle cable.

Shift solenoids can be tested by applying battery voltage directly to them.
Unplug solenoids from harness, use a jumper to power solenoids on and off.
They should make an audible 'CLICK'.
If not you may remove the solenoid pair and use brake cleaner in the ports while activating solenoid to clear out ports. Also the O-ring/metal screen filter should be checked for debris and cleaned. Unless damaged these Oring/screens can be reinstalled. Use some ATF on the Oring before reinstall.

Dexron III(H)spec can be used if Honda ATF isn't available. A generic Dexron III(H) will work fine. If you still have the original AT dipstick, note on the rubber plug it is embossed with 'DEXRON'.

FWIW DEXRON III(H) came out in 2003, and is backwards compatible with all earlier 'Type A/Dexron' fluids.

Warning: Do NOT use Dexron III(K) this is a manual transmission fluid.

 

Thank you Mad Mike.

What you have stated makes a lot of sense. Thank you for the detailed reply!
I was following you on all points and this does really make sense.
I remember reading that the life expectancy on the 94-97 was 200kish, I was just hopeful that the pre 94 had better clutch material.

There are lots of points I could reply to, but I forgot that these transmissions did not have removable sumps like on my old 70's and older Dodge 727's. It makes sense to tip the car to flush out the junk in the bottom.
Also letting me know about Dexron 3.

 

After driving the car for a while, I noticed that the first time I drive it no matter what time of day or outside temp. It takes 5 min of driving for the car to go into overdrive.

This made me decide to change the transmission fluid. Not knowing how much to get, I purchased a 5qt bottle of Valvoline Dexron 3.
I drained the oil and got 2.5qt, but it took 3 qt to fill the transmission checking the dipstick withing one min of turning the car off, according to the repair manual. The oil was a little dark and had a bit of burnt smell to it, but it wasn't too bad.

After driving the car a few times, it now shifts into overdrive at after about 2 min of driving and overall shifts smoother.

At the end of October when I do my oil change for winter, I will change the transmission fluid for the second time with the remaining 2.5 qt of fluid that I have on hand.

Thanks again for the responses