Hello, I have benefitted from this site for a few years (thank you) and decided to join and contribute, where, and if, I can. All I have to offer now is a problem. When a solution reveals itself, I will make it my life's mission to share it with others.

In the midst of some front end rehab on my 1993 Civic LX, 1.5 SOC 16V, MT, I'm stumped by a fitment / rotating play issue between my OEM hubs and an array of aftermarket cv axles.

The parts are not installed. My hubs are pressed out so I have been able to test spline fitment with 5 brands of aftermarket cv axles: NAPA, GSP, TRQ, O'Reilly's and Advanced Auto. The only consistency between brands is that they all fit equally - and by equally, I mean with a worrying degree of rotational play. Turning the hubs result in an audible "click" when the play gives way and the splines are engaged. This sure doesn't happen when I try that on my OEM axles, even after 320K miles.

For kicks, I tried some aftermarket Dorman hubs thinking that the aftermarket axles might play nice together. They didnt. Same degree of rotational play. The Dorman hubs are machined exaclty like the OEM hubs, which is nice, if that's what you need to know right now. In fact, the Dorman's fit the OEM axles like a glove: no play, no click. So the oddballs are the cv axle splines; and they are all in on the joke.

And it feels like the joke is just on me because I have seen many people install these very aftermarket axles in my model of car and I've never heard squat about rotational play being an issue. My only possible explanation might be that in those Youtube tutorials, the hubs are already installed in the knuckle - so the cv axle splines are just slipped in. Perhaps the builders aren't able, or don't bother to rotate the hub and are unaware of any rotational play?

I've read the horror stories about aftermarket axles, just not this particular one. People buy this stuff. Shops install them. Are they just living with this lack of precision because we have no other choice outside Raxles? Or does the rotational play not matter as much as I fear? If it doesn't, please, let me know. I'm willing to drop my standards if I'm told everything will be OK. I've done it before.

Please fellow travelers, what am I missing?

FWIW, Raxles aren't in the budget. I drive the car 3-5k a year.

Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I will be sure to pass it on.

Thank you in advance,

Robert

P.S. Please pardon any forum protocol violations. This is my first post. Or thread. Plus, I'm old

 

I appreciate your question, and explanation. Unfortunately, I don’t have an answer for you, but would like to hear what the consensus is on this issue.

There are certainly other, quality brands out there, who make good axles for your car, but likely well outside of the budget you’re looking at. (Driveshaftshop, Speed Factory, etc..) I believe driveshaft shop makes a good “level 0” axle which is supposed to be a “better than OEM”, but not rated for higher hp / tq applications, but I’m sure they’re quite expensive, compared with the “parts shop” brands.

 

Thanks Heysoos. I was hoping it was a manufacturing oddity but the axles are all the same. If no one weighs in from personal experience, I'll be the one who gets to answer the question " how much play is too much?"

I appreciate your reply and better brand suggestions. I just can't justify the expense.

But I'll probably "pay" either way.

Robert

 

Probably not much help. I’d probably order from Rockauto myself, but there are quite a few options, and then you’d have to deal with shipping them back if they’re the same as the part store axles. If you end up finding some with better tolerances, be sure to update us!

 

Heysoos,

I ordered the GSP brand from Rockauto, it was a favorite - with the heart symbol next to it. I have the part in hand and have seen the exact use of the part number on a video by a YouTuber called "Swishlife." None of the guys are testing the axle spline/hub spline fit for play because the hubs are installed - they just slam the cv axle in the differential and and rotate the knuckle back over the axle. Done. I guess it works? In my mind the splines cam out after 100 miles, not to mention what a similar fitment issue would mean in the differential. Hopefully someone will suggest I'm being finicky, accept what our Chinese overlords have bequeathed, and stop being idealist thinking splines ought to mesh without slop.

The GSP axles share part numbers with Adavance Auto part numbers under their "Carquest Premium" name. The GSP are about 40% of the cost of the Advance Auto part.

Robert

 

yep, unfortunately we’re very limited on options these days for these older vehicles, unless we want to pay premium prices. I suppose it’s great that these are still an option.
I don’t think you’re being too picky about it, I think it’s a relevant consideration. And it would be great to find something that meets your expectations. Unfortunately, even if you do find the perfect solution, that company may be bought by another, and usually, that means cost cutting and a lesser product. (Example: Timken).

 

Good driveshafts should be about $200 each. My personal preference has always been Raxles.