recently bought this b20 swapped civic been working on alot of things and one main thing i noticed is not only does the oil smell like gas which i guess it can be normal to an extent but the oil level rises as i warm up the car, and when i drive for awhile it burns a good bit and ill have to add some oil i use 10-30w. my AFR is all over the place but on average does stay around 13.5-14.7. can someone help what i should do not sure where to begin here. last time i did a oil change there was no fuel it seemed like, did smell like it though. and i am throwing codes 10-7-6 but all have to do with wiring. should i and how should i test the injectors could it be that? and would it be the piston rings? want to get this fixed asap even if it means rebuilding the block cause the rings are bad.

 

Fix the codes first. Pull the ECU and Back-up (15A and 7.5A) in the under hood fuse box, wait 30 seconds, and re-install them.

6 - ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sending unit. This area gets really hot, so it is not uncommon for the wiring at this plug to get brittle and crack, fray, or even break. Wire colors for this plug are red/white and green/white. The red/white wire goes to the ECU (D13) and the green/white wire is a ground. If the wiring is good, replace the sensor.

7 - TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Key on, engine off: Check voltage at the middle wire (it should be red/black) of the plug. Closed throttle should be .492-.500 volts. Full throttle should be no more than 4.60 volts. The green/white wire in the plug is the same ground as the ECT and IAT sensors... it terminates at the thermostat housing. The red/black wire goes back to the ECU at D11.

10 - IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. This sensor should be on the intake manifold near the throttle cable bracket. Wire colors are red/yellow and green/white. The red/yellow wire goes back to the ECU (D15) and the green/white wire is the sensor ground. It is very common that the Purge/Cut solenoid plug inadvertently gets plugged into this sensor... placing 12v on a 5v sensor. If the grey plug connected to the sensor has a straight red wire and a yellow/black (or black/yellow) wire, the end of the IAT sensor will be destroyed and the sensor is therefore shorted out. You will have to replace the sensor. If the correct plug is connected, check continuity back to the ECU on the red/yellow wire as well as continuity to ground on the green/white wire. Test the ECT circuit the same way.

 

little update thanks again jrcivic can count on you. i began fixing the CEL this morning, I first started with testing all power wires d11-d13-d15 ignition on everything gets power. TPS on D11 getting power depending on the throttle position. i check IAT and realized it had the wrong wires spliced possibly the purge canister or whatever. i found the red/yellow and green/white wires for the IAT got them spliced into a connector that actually looks like was from the canister purge has wires yellow/black and just red like you were saying, but either way spliced it and plugged in was getting power. dont know 100% if good cause car wont start. and what your saying jrcivic is that beings it was plugged in the purge solenoid it shorted the actual IAT being it was 12v on a 5v sensor?

ECT weird enough had a completely wrong connector ill try to post a pic later but was a connector with a black and blue 2 pin wiring. i found the green/white and red/white wires and spliced it once again with a connector that was not original to the ECT but plugged in just fine.

the TPS is the only one im worried about because d11 is getting power and the sensor is plugged in with the correct wire coloring but when i unplug the tps when car running its like nothing changes so ik its not working. and no map and tps arent switched. and i replaced the sensor itself. i still do need to check power in the middle wire coming right off the sensor not just d11.

the oil dilution was weird because this morning cold i checked it and it was reading a little above full and looked like and smelt like oil barely fuel, but before when its cold it be right at the low dot and when i drove and warm it up it start rising in levels and that's when it smells like fuel. i think all the codes are making it run a little rich which might not help with the dilution. ill come back tmr.

 

update pt2

car starts and runs now im stupid asf apparently working on the vss the distributor cable unplugged not all my fault while the connector doesn't clip so I zip tied it and Shes good.

code 6 is gone. now code 7 i probably have to replace the actual IAT like jrcivic said above definitely shorted it with the 12v solenoid wire. still haven't messed with code 10 we getting there.

 

Code 10 IS the IAT. Code 7 is for the TPS.

 

just ordered a new IAT. i have a new TPS in the intake already. once IAT is in ill make sure code #7 gone then go through the procedure for a tps install and calibration.