118k mile 95 odyssey burning oil
I have a RA1 odyssey. It was pass down to me like 3 years ago. It had 95k when I first got it. Every other week I would check oil level and I noticed sometimes it's a quart low like after a 2 hour road trip or after a month of daliy driving. I fixed all but one oil leak (the oring between oil pump and block). Of course it helped a bit. So I changed the PCV valve, that didn't change anything. Now I'm stuck wondering if the rings are stuck or the valve seals need replacing. Also I would like ideas on what could be the problem or how to reduce it.
i really care about this car. It has huge Sentimental value to me. I want it to last what would feel like forever (unless I get into an accident which i pray never happen). If wanna hear the story just pm me.
i really care about this car. It has huge Sentimental value to me. I want it to last what would feel like forever (unless I get into an accident which i pray never happen). If wanna hear the story just pm me.
If you don't see oil on the ground then its going out the exhaust.
More than likely both rings and valve seals. Although the 95 didn't have low tension rings or VCM. So that's a plus.
Start with the simple/cheap. AT-205 Reseal additive with oil change using Valvoline Restore and Protect. Maybe go up to 5w30 vs the 20 and that will slow it down a bit.
If no improvement within a 1000 miles or so with the AT-205 you may need to lean more into the oil control rings.
Couple things I've learned and done with cleaning those.
-1 continue with Val R&P, it could take 15,000 miles with at least 3 intervals to start seeing improvement. I've seen drastic improvement with my known oil burning 2azfe Toyota. I'm on my 5th oil change doing 3,000 intervals.
The AT205 helped a little but my issue is mostly oil control rings. I'm using 5w30 vs 0w20 spec'd.
-Piston soak with Berrymans B12 chemtool or Star Brite Ring clean.
- Safe flush. 85% oil capacity with 20w50 and 15% capacity with Berrymans B12 or Liqui Moly pro line engine flush, may need two bottles of those to get the 15% capacity. When using 20w50 and thinning it with flush you will have a safe oil viscosity vs using a flush with spec'd oil viscosity. The main reason flushed get a bad rap, other than non seal safe on extremely high mileage.
When I'm dealing with an oil burner personally or customer car I do this sequence.
-Soak at least 6 hours, drain oil from soak, Safe flush at least 100 miles, drain and use thicker high detergent oil from then on and install new PCV with catch can.
It's worked 5 times so far with know oil burners and slowed down consumption with many more, all depending on mileage, interval history, oil that was used and severity.
After that the only way is mechanical repair/parts replacement. The valve steam seals are simple enough on yours so maybe just do it anyway and adjust the valves with it.
More than likely both rings and valve seals. Although the 95 didn't have low tension rings or VCM. So that's a plus.
Start with the simple/cheap. AT-205 Reseal additive with oil change using Valvoline Restore and Protect. Maybe go up to 5w30 vs the 20 and that will slow it down a bit.
If no improvement within a 1000 miles or so with the AT-205 you may need to lean more into the oil control rings.
Couple things I've learned and done with cleaning those.
-1 continue with Val R&P, it could take 15,000 miles with at least 3 intervals to start seeing improvement. I've seen drastic improvement with my known oil burning 2azfe Toyota. I'm on my 5th oil change doing 3,000 intervals.
The AT205 helped a little but my issue is mostly oil control rings. I'm using 5w30 vs 0w20 spec'd.
-Piston soak with Berrymans B12 chemtool or Star Brite Ring clean.
- Safe flush. 85% oil capacity with 20w50 and 15% capacity with Berrymans B12 or Liqui Moly pro line engine flush, may need two bottles of those to get the 15% capacity. When using 20w50 and thinning it with flush you will have a safe oil viscosity vs using a flush with spec'd oil viscosity. The main reason flushed get a bad rap, other than non seal safe on extremely high mileage.
When I'm dealing with an oil burner personally or customer car I do this sequence.
-Soak at least 6 hours, drain oil from soak, Safe flush at least 100 miles, drain and use thicker high detergent oil from then on and install new PCV with catch can.
It's worked 5 times so far with know oil burners and slowed down consumption with many more, all depending on mileage, interval history, oil that was used and severity.
After that the only way is mechanical repair/parts replacement. The valve steam seals are simple enough on yours so maybe just do it anyway and adjust the valves with it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lisam
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
3
Apr 9, 2009 06:48 AM




