2005 CR-V EX The new brake pads are a very tight fit in the caliper bracket.I have to replace a leaking caliper due to a failed seal, which also soaked the pads, so they need to be replaced.

The caliper was under the Autozone lifetime warranty, so replacement one was free. Duralast Caliper Duralast Disc Brake Caliper 19-B2916

The set of Duralast Gold Brake pads I bought: Duralast Gold Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set DG914

It's been 4 years since I've done any brake work, and perhaps my memory isn't clear. But I remember that the new pads on multiple cars on which I've replace brakes, including my V, have always slipped right in fairly loosely and I could slide them from side to side pretty easily. The YouTube videos I've watched to verify my memory seem to back that up.

When I did a test fit with the new pads with the anti-rattle clips on, it took a bit of force to get the pads seated into the caliper bracket. I had to start one edge into the bracket and then rotate the trailing edge of the pad into the bracket.

And with the pads on the bracket, it takes a significant amount of force to slide the pad back and forth in the bracket. I asked the clerk at Autozone and he said it was normal. I said that I didn't see how the pads would be able to retract away from the rotor when the brake pedal was released when they move that stiffly. He said it was normal and that the pads normally ride lightly on the rotors, just without braking pressure.

That sounded like BS to me, bus as I said, it's been 4 years since I've replaced pads.

I tried the old pads on the new bracket and they were tight also. I'd already turned in the old caliper so I can't check the new pads on the old caliper.
But I did try the old pads on the new caliper bracket and they are a tight fit also, so I think it must be the caliper channel in which the pads sit. The new caliper has a painted shiny silver finish. Maybe it's too thick. I could try sanding it down a bit.Any opinions on this issue? Should I just install them and see how it goes, try sanding or grinding the mounting channel on the bracket, or return the pads and the caliper and order another brand? I'll be out a few more bucks because the caliper was a warranty replacement, but I'm more concerned with getting it right.

 

Best thing you could do is return the autozone duralast caliper/pads and buy from Honda directly or another parts store maybe even online.
It is typical for more pad movement resistance than you'd think but you dont want too much braking happening without you pushing the pedal,
The pads basically sit in the caliper, on the hardware and on the rotor. Its brakes, think fitment, feel, friction etc.
The friction material on the pads is pretty much in contact with the rotor at most times but the exact rotor turning resistance varies from car to car.
From there assuming you even have the right brake hardware shims, you can turn the rotor by hand with and without the caliper mounted to test resistance, maybe mount them, bleed brakes, pump pedal and try turning the rotor again.
You can also, if you feel its safe, attemp a short parking lot test and feel the wheel for heat.

There is alot of variation however in quality control from brand to brand of shims, clips, backings, paint, anti-rust, pads, rotors etc.
It depends on the brake job you did too, using grease ect.

Another thing you could do is file down the outer edge/perimeter of the ears/tabs on all four of the pads to make fitment better
but make sure you use a good grease and the right amount or else the lack of paint will cause rust on the steel pad backing.
(This is kind of a resort and to tune things if you will, but they should fit fairly easily without doing this, tighter fit than you'd think)