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Here's my 24 Civic Sport (non-turbo K20C2) with a manual transmission. For 2025 only Si and Type R are manual. I wanted a low maintenance daily driver to make commuting fun.
Suspension: H&R springs (1.4"), Whiteline rear sway bar
Wheels: Tesla Model 3 Aero with eBay covers. 18x8.5 et38. Stock is 18x8 et50. Internet says 7lbs lighter, but I didn't confirm. Same bolt pattern and center bore!
Exhaust: Invidia Q300
Intake: Gutted stock airbox, AEM drop-in/OE-style filter, PRL intake tube
Aero: eBay front lip and trunk spoiler
Misc: Whiteline motor mount poly insert, Acuity short shifter, Skunk2 shift ****
I replaced the coolant hose with 5/16 silicone caps.
Resonator Box Plugs I bought rubber plugs for the resonator box holes. $3 each at Lowes. The outer diameter of the holes is 40mm. The inner diameter is 38mm.
I recently installed Hybrid Racing Detent Springs and Bevinsee shifter bushings (similar design to Acuity). What an improvement to the shifting experience! 🤩 I took a gamble on the springs after reading comments they make shifting harder. The springs add a spring loaded action to shifting. The analogy is like shifting an automatic transmission lever, where you feel resistance in the lever switching between P, N, and D. The buttery numb smoothness of the stock shifter is replaced with more tactile resistance/feedback. I feel the exact moment I get in a gear, rather than waiting for the shifter to stop moving to confirm I'm in gear. The springs also stiffen shifter movement in neutral. I wonder how the springs compare against or in combo with Acuity's centering spring. The shifter cable bushings eliminates play/flex when the shifter reaches the end of the gear slot. Makes sense as I replaced the stock flexible rubber bushings with metal and hard plastic pieces. The bushings make the Acuity short shifter I installed months ago, feel even shorter! Months ago I also installed a Whiteline motor/trans mount insert that eliminated engine rocking between shifts. I made this post because I couldn't find specific reviews on the items. Everywhere I looked, people wrote vague descriptions like "it's good" or "increases engagement".
Any recommendations for other shift modifications?
Replaced the stock clutch stopper with a magnet and foam tape. Both from the junk bin in my garage. Eliminates some of the dead space after the clutch engagement point. Saved myself $21+ shipping (from Japan).
After 5 months of using the Whiteline insert in the stock (FL2) rear motor mount (RMM), I modified the Whiteline insert and installed a stock Type R (FL5) RMM. I changed the setup because vibrations at idle with AC on were too harsh. I bought a used FL5 RMM after reading this post. Comparing the RMMs side-by-side, I determined the only difference is the FL5 has an additional rubber insert in the bottom opening. I cut my Whiteline insert to mimic Powerflex's FK8 insert, and installed it in the FL5 RMM. Polyurethane mounts and bushings are commonly available in 4 durometer levels (higher = stiffer): 62a, 70a, 80a, and 94a. The Whiteline insert is 94a (no wonder it vibrates), whereas Powerflex's FK8 insert is 80a. I want a setup that is stiffer than stock FL5, but softer than 94a. I want to eliminate the engine-rocking motion when shifting on the stock RMM. My driving habits are tame enough not to experience wheel hop. I am very happy with the new setup. No vibrations when AC is on. Less vibrations below 1200 RPM and in reverse. When I do an oil change 1,000 miles from now, I'll install the FL2 mount with a Powerflex 70a insert. Sources for my research on insert options:
Installed Powerflex yellow inserts into the OEM FL5 mount (stock FL5 insert removed). I prefer this combo over my previous setups. Very minimal vibrations at startup, reverse, accelerating below 1500 RPM, and idling with AC on. My priority is to improve shifting (eliminate engine rocking between shifts) with minimal vibration. I'm not concerned about wheel hop. Powerflex yellow inserts have a softer 70a durometer rating compared to the Whiteline's 94a. Whiteline is too stiff. Inserts and mounts can be found in 6Xa, 7Xa, 8Xa, and 9Xa. If I didn't like the Powerflex inserts, I would've tried a 60a RMM from eBay (silver or black).
PRL rear strut bar installed. I found 2 install videos on YouTube, which removed the trunk interior. I didn't do that. I removed the rear seat airbags instead thanks to this YT short.
This is actually a really cool build, glad I stumbled on it.
What does the magnet accomplish in your clutch pedal setup? I imagine it gives that nice click-off feeling when you step on the pedal (they are used on shift paddles of race car and sim steering wheels so I know the feel). Neat idea if that’s what it’s for.
Mounts - if you’re not happy where you end up, don’t hesitate to consider some Hasports in the base grey (62a?) stiffness. They aren’t harsh at all. At the shop we’ve used them in our production based race cars for years and it’s always surprising how quiet and stock like they are, even in a stripped and caged race car. They’ll also handle anything you throw at them just fine unless you’re doing clutch dumps and drag launches all over the place.
I like the pins on the rear trunk bar. Been considering doing the same on my ‘00 with an old ITR bar so I can still fully use the trunk when I want. Any slop in the assembly?
This is actually a really cool build, glad I stumbled on it.
What does the magnet accomplish in your clutch pedal setup? I imagine it gives that nice click-off feeling when you step on the pedal (they are used on shift paddles of race car and sim steering wheels so I know the feel). Neat idea if that’s what it’s for.
Mounts - if you’re not happy where you end up, don’t hesitate to consider some Hasports in the base grey (62a?) stiffness. They aren’t harsh at all. At the shop we’ve used them in our production based race cars for years and it’s always surprising how quiet and stock like they are, even in a stripped and caged race car. They’ll also handle anything you throw at them just fine unless you’re doing clutch dumps and drag launches all over the place.
I like the pins on the rear trunk bar. Been considering doing the same on my ‘00 with an old ITR bar so I can still fully use the trunk when I want. Any slop in the assembly?
Thanks for the nice words!
With the clutch pedal stopper, I don't press the pedal as far. Doesn't make a huge difference. It was a free mod using junk in the garage. I got the idea for it after I read about people importing this from Japan.
Thanks for the Hasport RMM suggestion. I read about different insert options and filling the stock insert with 3M window weld. Cheaper alternative to buying multiple RMMs.
No slop with the pins in the rear strut bar. The bar fits snug without the pins, but no play with the pins inserted.
Installed a Hybrid Racing shifter and competition rod. I set the gate spacing and throw to the shortest settings. Combined with HR detent springs I installed months ago, the amount of force needed to shift significantly increased. I'm getting used to it. 💪😎
Ever since I installed H&R Super Sport springs (1.4"), I absolutely hate how the front sits higher by 1 finger (14mm) versus the rear. Eibach and D2 springs also have this problem. I'm on 18x9.5 et38 wheels with 245/35 tires. These tires have 8mm shorter sidewalls than stock 235/40, so they increase the wheel gap by 8mm! I recommend this website to compare tire sizes.
Last week I installed Raceland coilovers. At their lowest setting, the Racelands had about 1.75 finger gap in front. My H&R springs had 2 finger gap. I was disappointed by how low the Racelands didn't go, I didn't bother installing the rears. I returned them. Their customer service is excellent.
I don't fault Raceland for not going low enough. After installing the Racelands I learned other brand coilovers simlarly don't go low enough. Most 10th/11th gen Civic coilovers don't allow the shock body to thread through/below the lower mount. Read my yellow comment in the Raceland photo above. Below is a photo of BC Racing coilovers at the lowest front setting. The owner said there is 1 finger gap in front.
BC Racing makes a separate "Extreme Low" coilover that allows the shock body to thread through/below the lower mount. Note the exposed threads at the bottom of the coilovers below. This allows 2" or more lowering.
I bought a set of used D2 springs (2") for $80 from Facebook Marketplace. I want to install just the front D2 springs to get a 1 finger gap in front and rear. I also bought TruHart dampers made for shorter springs during their Black Friday sale. D2 and TruHart are the same company (same addresses and similar looking websites). TruHart springs must be the same as D2 (same specs, different color), but $30 cheaper.
I'm very satisfied with the outcome: 1 finger gap in front and rear.
Few months ago I installed larger stock front calipers and rotors from a 11th gen Civic Si. Same as 2023+ Integra and 2018+ Accord (trims with 19" wheels). Used my stock brake lines and banjo bolts. Only modification was bending back the dust shield. The larger brakes are identifiable by the squiggly caliper spring.
Last of the naturally aspirated manual Civics
