I think I'm having some problems with my Golden Eagle sleeves.

SETUP:
B18C (GE sleeved 84.5mm)
Cometic 85 mm headgasket
ITR cylinder head

Using ARP head studs - the studs were torqued down to 75 lb/ft (Cometic head gasket). The car has been running nicely for a few months. In the beginning it started to overheat when I was in city traffic, but that was due to my fans not turning on (burnt fuse). Then, a month later the car started to overheat again. When I say "overheat" the temp needle is half way. Normal is 1/4. I brought the car to Acura and they said everything is fine. That it did not overheat and the coolant system is running fine.

Now, 3 weeks later the car is overheating like 2 or 3 times a week. Today (having some cool weather) I drove the car "nicely". 6k shifting from 2nd gear to 4th. I looked at the temp gauge and it went immediate to half way. I then cruised and within in like 2 seconds it went down to normal. Was fine for like 10 minutes (some standing still) then started to rise again when I was in my neighhorhood.

Sometimes - the motor was great. No overheating.

Other times (like today) it acts up. However, mostly when it overheats I just park the car, shut it off / on, and it's fine afterwards.

HELP! What is going on with my motor?

Adam


[Modified by BlackGSR, 2:04 PM 11/19/2002]

 

well the first time you over heated your motor because the fan fuse blow out on you that could have made a small leak in your head gasket. and now its just progressively getting worse. Change your headgasket and while your doing that make sure you didn't warp your deck or head when you overheated your motor.


[Modified by SEFI8LOxCivic, 7:08 PM 11/19/2002]

 

"Vince doesn't know what he's talking about, he just works in the office" -Ted

Mike- who was also blown off by vince, and has no idea who's running the show there...

 

Were you using Bars addative in your coolant as recommended by GE? If not, and if your sleeves started to rust, that might prevent proper cooling of the cylinders. Short of pulling the motor and cleaning the sleeves (if that's even possible), you might want to dump some Bars fluid in there, install a bigger radiator and be done with it.

 

make sure you dont have any air pockets in your cooling system. If you do, it does over heat when you're on a stand still and goes away when u start driving. Bleed out the air in your cooling system and see if that helps.

 

maybe a headgasket problem? i know they recommend stock.

 

from what it sounds like.. i think your used to your car running cooler than stock... so i think what u are seeing on the gauge is that the theromstat opening and closing... if the gauge never goese over after way.. then it is not overheating.. it is running at stock temps ...try no theromstat or .. a new one..

 

Try emailing him.

 

Don't work either!

 

so what's the deal? i've been reading some of these posts and it seems like GE service isn't so good? or the sleeves they offer?

 

My friend had a problem with his overheating with the GE sleeves.

 

It must be his fault then! That's what Golden Eagle wants everyone to believe, place the blame on the customer! What good is a warranty if everytime the sleeves sink I have to pull the motor down buy all new gaskets and send it back to them, so what if shipping was free, how much are gaskets, oil, coolant, downtime? Seriously though elite have that block checked out!

 

I have a 96 prelude so this is only my opinion as I'm not familiar with your car...But my Prelude runs with the needle halfway and its 100% stock. From what I hear, that is average...Stock operating temp on any Honda engine (i'm guessing) is with the needle halfway. My ex-girlfriends Civic and my brothers old Teg ran the same way..Both were bone stock. The only time my Lude runs at the 1/4 mark is when its lower than 50 degrees outside in the mornings.

 

Replace the thermostat with a new factory thermostat. Check to make sure there are no shorts going to the temp sensor. Dont immediately point.. make sure all areas are covered that would lead to over-heating.
It seems like a few guys have had some probs now everyone seems to think the block is the cause. Im not plugging for either side (so dont flame) Just make sure you exhaust your resources first.


[Modified by Dublocivic, 3:44 PM 11/19/2002]

 

I can tell you this ...

1. When it does overheat it (going from 1/4 to 1/2) - it'll almost always go down to 1/4 after no accerlating. So in other words - the temps will fluctuate a little.

2. However, Vince (at GE) says that OEM gasket + copper spray + 78+ lb/ft WILL not cause any problems. I use Cometic with no spray at 75 lb/ft.

Also - 3 wks ago Acura did a pressurized test on the motor. Said it was A.0K.

Adam

 

What radiator do you have? and you say all cylinders are holding comp/leakdown to spec?

 

this is simply amazing....

you guys have some nerve. you have a block sleeved, dont follow instructions and then flame the company like its their fault?

Get a stock headgasket, copper spray and use bars leaklike advised.

 

GE recommended Cometic gasket. NOT OEM. Never said to spray the block. I USE BARS leak.

A couple of months ago ... GE did not make OEM gaskets. Cometic was the choice.

 

My original Warranty paperwork didn't advise of Bar's Leak, it came out later, but I used it. We followed all the instructions given by GE, they keep changing the specs and what to and not to use.

 

You are right sir. They do say use a stock or Cometic gasket sprayed with copper spray, that was the most recent paperwork sent I am aware of. I got some new paperwork when my block got back now. HMMMMMM? It is Funny though Ted said" We have never ever recommended a Cometic Gasket!" Oh Beg to differ your paperwork said to use it or stock. Can't back out of that? What is the torque spec this week 500 ft-lbs for the headstuds? Retorque every 5 miles? I'm sorry this is upsetting!!!!!!!!!!

 

i would definately slap in a new honda thermostat before blaming anything. don't cost much and you probably need one or got a bad one if you have already replaced it. just my thoughts.

 

I replaced my thermostat already. Of course, after my NEW motor started to over heat.


[Modified by BlackGSR, 4:50 PM 11/19/2002]

 

This is how I feel. I got my block done BACK in May. In May, BARS leak wasn't around, over size OEM gaskets did not exist, and torque studs to 70-70 lb/ft.

It's almost like I have to keep coming on H-T.net to find the most recent changes to GE blocks.

I now use BARS leak and my have to replace my head gasket again (3rd time).

So, what are this week's instructions? OEM + copper spray + 82 lb/ft. Is this correct?

Adam

 

if the dealer prssure tested the system , all test's o.k. then the sleeves are probally fine, do you loose coolant? if not check your radiator, make sure it is not cloged, make sure your fan turn's on, bars leak is to prevent rust , not fix blown headgaskets. Jason

 

What did you use? ARP? if so what did you use? the moly lube or oil?
78 with moly and 82 with oil.