hello I just removed my head gasket to replace it and i want to change the rear main seal while i have everything out. does anyone have any links for step by step of replacing it with the head removed i see tons of videos of guys removing the transmission, but i really dont have the room to take even more parts out.

please let there be an easy way for me to replace everything with the head removed. any help is appreciated!!

my engine is a B16A out of a 89 acura integra. ok send photos for you as well

 

You cannot replace the rear main seal without removing the transmission. You must separate the transmission, clutch, and flywheel from the block/crankshaft to expose the rear main seal for replacement.

 

thanks for the help, But if i have the cylinder head and intake off already, couldn’t i just remove the crankcase and keep the transmission mounted to the car?

it just seems like a route that is much much simpler and easier cause i see that my car needs to be on jack stands to remove the transmission which i definitely can’t do.

 

this is what i’m working with. if anyone has any advice

 

Your not going to be able to reach it i fear.. the rear main seal is right where the flywheel meets the crankshaft.

 

What do you mean by "Removing the crank case ?" If you mean removing the "Short Block", you could place a jack or cribbing under the transmission to support it and remove just the block... be careful not to allow the torque converter to slide out and away from the transmission.

Removing the cylinder head has absolutely NOTHING to do with the rear main seal replacement. Your photograph shows an automatic transmission... so I will correct my list of things to do from above: Remove the transmission, remove the torque converter, remove the flex-plate and THEN you can remove and replace the rear main seal. Understand that the rear main seal surrounds the rear end of the crankshaft, the flex-plate is larger in diameter than the rear main seal, so you cannot remove the seal without removing the flex-plate. The bolts holding the flex-plate to the rear of the crankshaft cannot be removed until the transmission and torque converter are removed.

At this point, I would remove the ENTIRE engine short block and transmission as an assembly, fix the main seal and re-assemble the engine, and then re-install the the power train. It is much easier (and more effective) to properly install the cylinder head/timing belt/etc. on an engine stand than in the tight quarters of the engine bay of the car.

 

If I'm reading this right, the OP wants to pull the engine to replace the seal rather than pull the trans since most of the effort in pulling the engine is now out of the way. make sense to me if so.

OP, the engine will come out through the top with the trans staying in place. this works for the automatic only. seal can then be replaced and engine set back in.

general procedure: undo any coolant hoses and wires, pull the dust shield to access the flex plate bolts for removal, undo all bolts between engine and transmission bell housing once the block is supported by a hoist. probably will need to have the crank pulley off too. then it should be free to lift out.

 

WAIT REALLY!!! are you serious right now!!!!
your a life saver man!! can’t thank you enough on this!

 

so im gonna get started on this tonight, if anyone else has any suggestions or has done this let me know.

But I currently have:

all coolant hoses out
crank pulley removed
driver side motor mounts removed (later tonight)
i’m thinking I will put the block on on wooden blocks and not physically lift it out of the bay, if i’m just replacing the seal, i can replace it and put the engine block back on immediately after seal is replaced.

does anyone know if i will I will need to touch the transmission? like removing the tranny mount? or can everything simply just stay in place? while the block is detached?

thanks so much for the help.!!

 

I would totally love to do this i’m just pulling it in the bottom of a parking garage with essentially no tools and definitely nothing that can hoist even a tranny up never mind having the block attached as well. so i’m gonna have to go the other route. PS if anyone has somewhat seen a step by step guide to how to do this please forward it and kinda running this blind rn. thanks for the help.

 

I have not tried it without a hoist, but if you can get the block up high enough to get to the bolts holding the flex plate to the crank clear of the bell housing it should be feasible. cribbing it up with wood blocks isn't a bad idea especially if the jack you're using won't go the full lift height.

I know some Accords and Preludes had a bolt on the rear trans mount going through the block, but I don't think the B-series did. should be able to leave the transmission alone other that what's needed to get the engine off of it.

 

[QUOTE=hondamark35;52881197]I have not tried it without a hoist, but if you can get the block up high enough to get to the bolts holding the flex plate to the crank clear of the bell housing it should be feasible. cribbing it up with wood blocks isn't a bad idea especially if the jack you're using won't go the full lift height.

I know some Accords and Preludes had a bolt on the rear trans mount going through the block, but I don't think the B-series did. should be able to leave the transmission alone other that what's needed to get the engine off of it.[/QUOTE


awesome! thanks for the tips I really don’t wanna screw up and let the torque converter slide out and away from the transmission like JRcivic1 mentioned before. anyone got any videos or breakdowns of making sure to do this right?

 

okay so how would you recommend making sure the converter doesn’t slide off? if i crib the short block and transmission firmly in place how likely is it that the torque converter issue will still
happen?

 

I thought i’d make a detailed breakdown of what to do step by step. let me know if i missed anything, thanks again your patience lol.


PREP WORK:

- Jack up short block crib the engine block to prevent from moving.
- crib transmission to prevent from moving.
- double check if rear Tran mount has a bolt going through engine block.
- look for bolts holding flex plate to the crank.
- Jack up engine block so flex plate bolts will clear bell housing.

!!!!! MAKE SURE TORQUE CONVERTER DOES NOT SLIDE OUT AND AWAY FROM TRANSMISSION!!!!

1. at all costs remove transmission and torque converter together, do not let converter slide off AND OUT OF away.

2. remove flex plate to access rear main seal

3. replace seal

4. re attach flex plate

5. attach torque converter and transmission TOGETHER!!!!!!

begin installing cylinder head.

 

I typically use a small steel strap/bracket to hold the torque converter in place. Using a bolt hole on the transmission bell housing, overlap the strap/bracket across the back edge of the torque converter and secure it in place with a bolt through one of the previously mentioned bolt holes. You slip this strap/bracket into place just as you are separating the block from the transmission.

 

awesome man your life saver!
i’ll try to take as much pictures as i can and post them tommorow.