Please hang in there with me it will be a long read. It has been an even longer road of frustration. Please feel free to ask any questions as I am at a loss at this point and may have forgotten something and diag is ongoing.



My set-up is as follows.

I have a 1997 civic DX factory 5 speed car.

07 k24a2

06 Accord trans.

Jackspania conversion harness

Factory 5 speed element harness and 05 ecu W/ktuner installed at HAmotorsports

I am having a problem blowing the IGN fuse under the dash as soon as I turn the key to on position. However, if I remove the E plug or the relay on the conversion harness separately the fuse does not blow. When I plug them back in it blows. I have tried disconnecting all coils and it still blows. I have continuity to each coil to ecu continuity to power and ground with everything connected as it should, and all reads normal. I have tried two different factory manual harnesses, and it happens the same with both. I have made the recommended harness adjustments to the conversion harness per the Vtech-academy video for the ecu.

As a side not before I used the element harness and ecu I had kpro v4 in a CRV auto ecu and a modified automatic CRV harness (also per Vetchacademy video). I was not getting spark or fuel and had no codes. I sent the ecu back and they tested it and sent it back. Free of charge. It tested good. When I installed it in my car I had to do a calibration update. I had to update to the current beta version for it to work. I reloaded the base map, and it came up with a baro sensor code instantly. I’m assuming the ecu is toast. Zero changes were made before and after sending the ecu out to be tested. At this point I swapped in the element set-up. There were no blown fuses before I did the changeover. It would crank with no fuel or spark. I got a code for both cam sensor so I swapped them out and tested. Than is when I noticed the fuse blown

I turned off the immobilizer on both ecu’s and other suggested settings for first start. I don’t know where to go from here. Likely out of frustration. Any help and guidance would be helpful. I am mechanically inclined and can do what ever test is required.

 

Through further diag. I have found that I have ground at the interior fuse box on all fuses except ign. coil (ironically the one that keeps blowing). The radio and power outlet fuse I get very temporary continuity (like a second). I have removed the radio and power outlet with the no change. This was all done with the engine harness and ecu disconnected. I started removing plugs on the interior fuse box and found that when I removed the green 20 pin connector the tone on my meter went away. The wires that have tone are yel/red, red/blk, and yel/silver rings. Also this is with the connector on the strut tower disconnected.



Does anyone have a wire diagram for this connector or know what wires they are?

 

Jack Spania sells knock off garbage parts and the harness is likely the issue.

 

Garbage product is actually better... it is the worst stuff I have EVER seen... and people buy it by the F%#k ton because it is super cheap.

 

I agree completely. I just don't understand why the fuse is blown on the element harness and not the converted crv harness. It just confuses me. In the end it is the only common part in the setup.

It also doesn't explain the readings I get with the harness not even connected in the car. Why would I have tone on my meter when one is on ground and the other is on the power side of the fuse box. Another is with all fuses removed I checked the right and left high beam for ***** and giggles one side of the fuse holder has tone then on the other one the opposite side of the fuse holder has tone. The readings are inverted, but if I install a fuse on one then the other one has tone on both sides. This happens with left or right fuses. It is leading me to thing the box has taken a ****. This is all without a battery installed or harnesses hooked up. This is with the body harness isolated or connected to conversion harness.

I retested the power circuit from fuse 9 all the way to the coil power with harnesses connected and with out there is no tone to ground anywhere. This was done with the fuse removed. This is the fuse that blows instantly when the key is turned on. I'd think if there was a short then it would be before the fuse and that would burn the wires not the fuse.