Del Sol Head gasket replacement
Hello, I just did a leak down test on my Si del sol.
car was running pretty good, but it doesn’t get power and leaks oil into coolant, leak down test failed by a long shot. I drove it for about a year, with basically no problems, and heat gauge never went above half.
so if the engine overheated and screwed my head gasket, how do I determine the HG blew due to engine over heat? and how do i make sure it won’t blow again once i replace it?
cause i never drove it over 3k. it always had coolant, never drove the car more than 30 minutes. my gf drove it mostly to work and back, nothing excessive.
car was running pretty good, but it doesn’t get power and leaks oil into coolant, leak down test failed by a long shot. I drove it for about a year, with basically no problems, and heat gauge never went above half.
so if the engine overheated and screwed my head gasket, how do I determine the HG blew due to engine over heat? and how do i make sure it won’t blow again once i replace it?
cause i never drove it over 3k. it always had coolant, never drove the car more than 30 minutes. my gf drove it mostly to work and back, nothing excessive.
Remove the cylinder head, check for other issues. Take it a reputable machine to have it resurfaced. Nothing but Genuine Honda head gasket should go back on
Okay thx, but i’m assuming the cylinder head being warped is just an end result to other undiscovered issues right?? like overheating.
so once the gasket is replaced and head is resurfaced. how do you make sure it doesn’t blow again?
There are a few factors why the HG would blow:
* dirty mating surface where the HG mates --- people leave the cylinder head outside in the element (including the ground) and install it as is.
* improper installation --- some people do not know how to use a socket wrench or leave damaged head studs in
* warped head/damaged block --- being cheap and just "send it" knowing these 2 parts are not level
* dirty mating surface where the HG mates --- people leave the cylinder head outside in the element (including the ground) and install it as is.
* improper installation --- some people do not know how to use a socket wrench or leave damaged head studs in
* warped head/damaged block --- being cheap and just "send it" knowing these 2 parts are not level
There are a few factors why the HG would blow:
* dirty mating surface where the HG mates --- people leave the cylinder head outside in the element (including the ground) and install it as is.
* improper installation --- some people do not know how to use a socket wrench or leave damaged head studs in
* warped head/damaged block --- being cheap and just "send it" knowing these 2 parts are not level
* dirty mating surface where the HG mates --- people leave the cylinder head outside in the element (including the ground) and install it as is.
* improper installation --- some people do not know how to use a socket wrench or leave damaged head studs in
* warped head/damaged block --- being cheap and just "send it" knowing these 2 parts are not level
so your saying overheating wouldn’t even be enough to blow a head gasket then? as long as the engine didn’t excessively over heat for a long period of time?
There are a few factors why the HG would blow:
* dirty mating surface where the HG mates --- people leave the cylinder head outside in the element (including the ground) and install it as is.
* improper installation --- some people do not know how to use a socket wrench or leave damaged head studs in
* warped head/damaged block --- being cheap and just "send it" knowing these 2 parts are not level
* dirty mating surface where the HG mates --- people leave the cylinder head outside in the element (including the ground) and install it as is.
* improper installation --- some people do not know how to use a socket wrench or leave damaged head studs in
* warped head/damaged block --- being cheap and just "send it" knowing these 2 parts are not level
thanks for the reply, one more thing i wanted to do while i can is replace the cam seals and see if that helps the leakage. does anyone know if Cam seals need to be HONDA OEM as well?
thanks.
just wanted to follow up on this..
i wanna replace the cam seals as well do you know if they need to be OEM HONDA?
any other parts that should be replaced so this doesn’t happen again? thanks
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The cam seals do not have to be OEM though would be the best bet to get since Honda quality is on a high tier, they last very long also there other reputable companys/distributors that will last aswell.
Through my personal experience, I have always had good luck when using parts sourced from Beck Arnley.. They are a good alternative for replacement parts other than going with OEM. I'm sure there 's probably better out there but I like to use what I've known to be good and not a let down 2 years down the road or less with failing parts from other companys.
While your tackling this job of replacing the head gasket and your halfway inside the engine already, What I would do - have the valves lapped and replace the valve seals (supertech makes some good ones), re-surface the head while its apart, check block deck with a straight edge for warpage. Re-use the OEM head studs. Replace the water pump and timing belt tensioner sourced from Beck Arnley, OEM Honda timing belt and should be good to go.
Through my personal experience, I have always had good luck when using parts sourced from Beck Arnley.. They are a good alternative for replacement parts other than going with OEM. I'm sure there 's probably better out there but I like to use what I've known to be good and not a let down 2 years down the road or less with failing parts from other companys.
While your tackling this job of replacing the head gasket and your halfway inside the engine already, What I would do - have the valves lapped and replace the valve seals (supertech makes some good ones), re-surface the head while its apart, check block deck with a straight edge for warpage. Re-use the OEM head studs. Replace the water pump and timing belt tensioner sourced from Beck Arnley, OEM Honda timing belt and should be good to go.
The cam seals do not have to be OEM though would be the best bet to get since Honda quality is on a high tier, they last very long also there other reputable companys/distributors that will last aswell.
Through my personal experience, I have always had good luck when using parts sourced from Beck Arnley.. They are a good alternative for replacement parts other than going with OEM. I'm sure there 's probably better out there but I like to use what I've known to be good and not a let down 2 years down the road or less with failing parts from other companys.
While your tackling this job of replacing the head gasket and your halfway inside the engine already, What I would do - have the valves lapped and replace the valve seals (supertech makes some good ones), re-surface the head while its apart, check block deck with a straight edge for warpage. Replace the water pump and timing belt tensioner sourced from Beck Arnley, OEM Honda timing belt and should be good to go.
Through my personal experience, I have always had good luck when using parts sourced from Beck Arnley.. They are a good alternative for replacement parts other than going with OEM. I'm sure there 's probably better out there but I like to use what I've known to be good and not a let down 2 years down the road or less with failing parts from other companys.
While your tackling this job of replacing the head gasket and your halfway inside the engine already, What I would do - have the valves lapped and replace the valve seals (supertech makes some good ones), re-surface the head while its apart, check block deck with a straight edge for warpage. Replace the water pump and timing belt tensioner sourced from Beck Arnley, OEM Honda timing belt and should be good to go.
Awesome man!!
thanks for the descriptive reply! have you ever found replacing the radiator helpful? i was thinking if my engine overheated i’m assuming that would have to be a big contributor. maybe i’m wrong.
I was on the edit while you replied.. lol You can re-use the OEM head studs as I noted as well. Your probably stock with no power adders and the bolts are not torque to yeild so I would not hesitate on using them again.
Replacing the rad is not a bad idea if what is in there is still stock. Could have possible bad scaling inside restricting it's flow.. I would just try a good bottle of rad flush instead of replacing it first.
Replacing the rad is not a bad idea if what is in there is still stock. Could have possible bad scaling inside restricting it's flow.. I would just try a good bottle of rad flush instead of replacing it first.
I was on the edit while you replied.. lol You can re-use the OEM head studs as I noted as well. Your probably stock with no power adders and the bolts are not torque to yeild so I would not hesitate on using them again.
Replacing the rad is not a bad idea if what is in there is still stock. Could have possible bad scaling inside restricting it's flow.. I would just try a good bottle of rad flush instead of replacing it first.
Replacing the rad is not a bad idea if what is in there is still stock. Could have possible bad scaling inside restricting it's flow.. I would just try a good bottle of rad flush instead of replacing it first.
thanks man appreciate the help.
You can source Genuine Honda Parts for the same price as aftermarket parts. Just be aware that half of the stuff you see on Ebay are counterfeit.
I was on the edit while you replied.. lol You can re-use the OEM head studs as I noted as well. Your probably stock with no power adders and the bolts are not torque to yeild so I would not hesitate on using them again.
Replacing the rad is not a bad idea if what is in there is still stock. Could have possible bad scaling inside restricting it's flow.. I would just try a good bottle of rad flush instead of replacing it first.
Replacing the rad is not a bad idea if what is in there is still stock. Could have possible bad scaling inside restricting it's flow.. I would just try a good bottle of rad flush instead of replacing it first.
hey thought i’d Update you on how the head gasket is going, turns out the leak is coming from my rear main seal, but since I have the intake and cylinder head all off already does anyone know if it’s possible to pull the bottom block off? and replace the rear main seal with tran still
in place?
hey thought i’d Update you on how the head gasket is going, turns out the leak is coming from my rear main seal, but since I have the intake and cylinder head all off already does anyone know if it’s possible to pull the bottom block off? and replace the rear main seal with tran still
in place?
in place?
The engine will have to come out of the top of the engine bay.Thread
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