Honda Outboard Help Needed
Good Day Honda-Tech Forums,
I wonder if I could get some assistance with trouble shooting a 2003 Honda BF 130 Outboard boat engine. The BF130 is programmed fuel injection 4-stroke 2.5l 4 cylinder. From what I can tell by cross referencing emission control parts it is very similar to Honda/Acura 1990-2000 car models. Many of the emission control parts cross reference to these models. Some major differences are that it does not have an oxygen sensor and the ECU is more like a motorcycle ECU in that it is weather proof and mounted to the block. It is pre-OBD2, it has blink codes instead. Most of the other sensors, etc are extremely similar if not exactly the same as a car.
So the symptoms I have been getting are intermittent. Sometimes it runs great, and sometimes it won't run with any power limiting out around 2000 rpm, and sometimes it stalls when going into gear. I have the factory manual and have tested with the sewing needles and multi-meter and have come up with no conclusive problem.
The list of things I have replaced is quite extensive, but is far less expensive than a new engine. This includes fuel pump, filters and regulator and ignition coils/wires/plugs, and main relay.
I would prefer to do a logical diagnosis instead of throwing parts at it. However I can't just hit the freeway on ramp and drive until it dies. If it dies out on the water I have to worry about getting home safely and troubleshooting comes in a distant second. I could just replace all of the sensors for under$200 and hope for the best.
I would appreciate any advice on how to proceed. The outboard forums have been no help on this at all.
Thanks
I wonder if I could get some assistance with trouble shooting a 2003 Honda BF 130 Outboard boat engine. The BF130 is programmed fuel injection 4-stroke 2.5l 4 cylinder. From what I can tell by cross referencing emission control parts it is very similar to Honda/Acura 1990-2000 car models. Many of the emission control parts cross reference to these models. Some major differences are that it does not have an oxygen sensor and the ECU is more like a motorcycle ECU in that it is weather proof and mounted to the block. It is pre-OBD2, it has blink codes instead. Most of the other sensors, etc are extremely similar if not exactly the same as a car.
So the symptoms I have been getting are intermittent. Sometimes it runs great, and sometimes it won't run with any power limiting out around 2000 rpm, and sometimes it stalls when going into gear. I have the factory manual and have tested with the sewing needles and multi-meter and have come up with no conclusive problem.
The list of things I have replaced is quite extensive, but is far less expensive than a new engine. This includes fuel pump, filters and regulator and ignition coils/wires/plugs, and main relay.
I would prefer to do a logical diagnosis instead of throwing parts at it. However I can't just hit the freeway on ramp and drive until it dies. If it dies out on the water I have to worry about getting home safely and troubleshooting comes in a distant second. I could just replace all of the sensors for under$200 and hope for the best.
I would appreciate any advice on how to proceed. The outboard forums have been no help on this at all.
Thanks
Last edited by djnolan; Jul 24, 2024 at 02:43 AM.
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Not running above 2k rpm has not happened again since I replaced the fuel pump over the winter.
The most recent problem is stalling when going into gear and there were no CEL codes. However this stalling cleared up on the next time out or is intermittent.
Thanks, apprecaite your help.
The most recent problem is stalling when going into gear and there were no CEL codes. However this stalling cleared up on the next time out or is intermittent.
Thanks, apprecaite your help.
it happened one time during a few hours trip a few weeks ago. The stalling got progressively worse until I had to get towed in.
A week later I checked it out and tried to get it to happen again but it ran fine. I checked the voltage on the TPS (.5 to 4.5V) and checked the fuel pressure (40psi), both were fine. Then I ran it and it ran fine. Go figure.
A week later I checked it out and tried to get it to happen again but it ran fine. I checked the voltage on the TPS (.5 to 4.5V) and checked the fuel pressure (40psi), both were fine. Then I ran it and it ran fine. Go figure.
Have you tried asking here?
Honda Outboard Forum | Boat Repair Forum (marineengine.com)
Honda Outboard Forum | Boat Repair Forum (marineengine.com)
I have tried many places, shops and DIY, but the expertise on these engines seems to have moved on. I read a few posts about emission systems on this forum and got the idea to ask for help here. This forum is very active.
Honda Outboard Forum | Boat Repair Forum (marineengine.com)
(I know I'm repeating myself... that is because that is an active Honda outboard forum where I've had success getting help)
Thank you, I reviewed the threads about stalling and there are a lot of good tips about fuel systems. My fuel system is in pretty good shape but there are a few possibilities I can check if/when it happens again. One major difference between a car and an outboard are the fuel system designs and two fuel pumps low and high pressure.
I didn't see very much on the site about the emission control system. I did speak to a Honda shop about the problem and they said intermittent is very difficult to solve, but sensors and ECU's have been known to have intermittent problems. I considered a new ECE - unobtanium but have a spare used one. And replacing all of the sensors for around $250 in parts.
I would appreciate any advice about what sensor in the emission control system might cause it to stall when going in to gear and only intermittently perhaps only when hot. it has a tps, iac, air temp, water temp and map sensor, plus flywheel sensors.
I didn't see very much on the site about the emission control system. I did speak to a Honda shop about the problem and they said intermittent is very difficult to solve, but sensors and ECU's have been known to have intermittent problems. I considered a new ECE - unobtanium but have a spare used one. And replacing all of the sensors for around $250 in parts.
I would appreciate any advice about what sensor in the emission control system might cause it to stall when going in to gear and only intermittently perhaps only when hot. it has a tps, iac, air temp, water temp and map sensor, plus flywheel sensors.
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