Hello everyone. I own a 1991 CRX HF. I bought it brand new in 1990 and it's seen its fair share of driving.

Before I get into this post, I'll start by saying I do not have great skills when it comes to wrenching on cars and I usually leave that to folks who do. However, now that I'm retired, I have a lot of time on my hands to attend YouTube "University" and have started to perform some of my own maintenance on my car(s). That being said, I'm still learning and I know probably less than all of you have forgotten!

For my particular issue, I've scanned the forums and this allowed me to formulate a troubleshooting plan. My plan was to start with the low-hanging fruit, then get into the more difficult repair/replace items. Now, on to the particulars ...CRX T/S Notes: 1991 Honda CRX HF, stock D15B6 engine with manual transmission. Approx. 330K miles. Timing belt done at 306K. First clutch lasted until 310K, then replaced. Normal intervals of maintenance performed.

Symptoms: Car “hesitates” when getting on the throttle in second gear and above. By “hesitates”, I mean the engine power will cease (drops down to idle) and engine sounds like it is sputtering. If the gas pedal is slowly pushed, there is no engine cutout about 95% of the time and the engine acts normal. Problem is more evident when trying to pull a hill because I'm requesting more throttle.

T/S Steps:

1. O2 Sensor replaced. Result: No measureable change to symptoms.

2. Lucas Oil Fuel Treatment added to ½ tank of fuel. Result: Minimal changes to symptoms.

3. Found Oil in #4 spark plug tube; the other 3 tubes were dry. Pulled all plugs. Minimal oil foul on all plugs, gaps generally good. Replaced valve cover gasket, upper tube seals, and cover grommet seals. Leak checked, no leaks - #4 spark plug tube no longer getting oil in tube. Changed all 4 spark plugs to NGK Iridium IX plugs. Result: Car seemed to run a bit better, but symptoms still exist.

4. Noticed small tube from top of valve cover (breather tube) had small hole in it. Replaced tube. Result: No changes to symptoms.

5. Disconnected plug for TPS. Result: No changes to symptoms. Plugged back in. As an aside, I purchased new TPS, but only want to go down replacement road if I have to and this test seems to indicate that the TPS is not causing the problem.

6. Replaced Fuel Filter. Result: No changes to symptoms.

7. Removed tube from top of Fuel Pressure Regulator valve. Result: Engine idled higher (due to higher fuel pressure), but symptoms still existed. Plugged back in.



Other notes:

1. Purchased new EGR valve. Have not installed yet.

2. Distributor was replaced 4 years ago. Spark plug wires replaced at same time with NGK wires.

3. No fuel pressure checks performed yet as I do not have the tools needed.

4. No timing checks performed as I do not have tools or knowledge.

5. When I removed the gas cap for #6 above, I did not hear a “hiss” from the tank. In the past, I have always heard a hiss. Tank pressure issue?
UPDATE (6/8/24): Fueled up at gas station and "hiss" (release of tank pressure) was there.

6. I only want to drop the fuel tank as a last resort. Once I drop it, I’ll likely replace the tank itself and replace the fuel pump/pump “sock”.

7. No CEL.

8. Car is currently showing 1/3 tank of gas.
UPDATE (6/8/24): Filled with full tank of gas.

9. I've read that this problem could be caused by fuel pump/sock. I’m thinking I could t/s fuel pump/sock by filling up on gas, but then if I need to drop the tank, it’s full, making that more difficult.
UPDATE (/6/8/24): After filling tank to full and driving the car, problem still exists.

Any additional tests, troubleshooting steps that y'all could recommend, as long as I have the tools, I'll try. And, no, I do not want to do an engine swap! When this baby is running smooth, she still gets 40 MPG!

Thank you!

 

Should probably look into getting a new distributor cap and rotor if the existing one is 4 years old. With the car at it's age, it would be wise to change the pump to keep it going because you never know if replacement parts will still exist down the road also it could be at a time in it's life where it is worn out.
If you do get into dropping the tank, it is fairly easy also there is a drain plug bolt on the bottom so your not lowering a bunch of extra weight.

 

Ok, so regarding #6 above ... I replaced the fuel pump (and the fuel tank while I was at it). As far as I can tell, the fuel pump was original! Anyways, problem still exists, athough with all of the troubleshooting steps/changes I've done so far, it seems to have gotten a bit better. What I mean is, now, it'll only bog down in lower RPM's in gears 2-5. If I really baby the throttle, I can anticipate when it might bog down and "catch it" before it does lose power.


Original vs New

Thank you for the response regarding the distributor. I've got two more things to replace before getting to that. I'm taking iterative steps to hone in on the (hopefully) one item that fixes the problem.

Next up: EGR Valve. On Deck: TPS

 

UPDATE: Changed EGR Valve - no changes.

 

As I mentioned about replacing the cap and rotor, before purchasing a new set, you can simply remove the cap and gently scrape off the build up on the four pins inside the cap to unburnt metal also on the rotor. If it resolves your issue then purchase new ones. Curious if that helps for you..