02 D17 Crank No start
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere,WV
Trying to get this car fixed for my girls father.
Things done:
Verified Physical Timing
Compression Tested (200,190,185,190)
All engine bay Grounds cleaned
Valve Adjustment
Cleaned IAC/TB
Replaced Coolant Temp Switch (Aftermarket Sensor)
Fresh NGK V powers (they had Autolites in it.. ROFL)
Car goes into Crank/No start no matter the temp Hot or cold. Get it running and can run for an Hr. Shut it off and can experience the symptoms
I Have not done a fuel pressure test as of yet. I get pump prime and while cranking sometimes get a backfire or stop cranking and the smell of fuel like its trying to flood itself.
I just put some Sta-Bil and some injector cleaner in it as I know the gas has set for quite sometime (shop had it for 7 months and didn't bother to find this issue)
Head gasket as well as timing belt/water pump was replaced prior to this scenario. (Not By Me)
Next look is the CFK or CPS. Currently waiting for the car to cool off.
IGN/Main relays click/prime as per usual. Since its not the old school huge relays anymore I won't bother with them
Immobilizer light acts as it should
Being a returnless system the regulator/pump are 1 unit so hoping I don't have to go that far, but will verify with a fuel pressure test.
Possible Fuel Damper or Injector stuck scenario?
NO CEL'S
Anything I'm missing or didn't think of?
Things done:
Verified Physical Timing
Compression Tested (200,190,185,190)
All engine bay Grounds cleaned
Valve Adjustment
Cleaned IAC/TB
Replaced Coolant Temp Switch (Aftermarket Sensor)
Fresh NGK V powers (they had Autolites in it.. ROFL)
Car goes into Crank/No start no matter the temp Hot or cold. Get it running and can run for an Hr. Shut it off and can experience the symptoms
I Have not done a fuel pressure test as of yet. I get pump prime and while cranking sometimes get a backfire or stop cranking and the smell of fuel like its trying to flood itself.
I just put some Sta-Bil and some injector cleaner in it as I know the gas has set for quite sometime (shop had it for 7 months and didn't bother to find this issue)
Head gasket as well as timing belt/water pump was replaced prior to this scenario. (Not By Me)
Next look is the CFK or CPS. Currently waiting for the car to cool off.
IGN/Main relays click/prime as per usual. Since its not the old school huge relays anymore I won't bother with them
Immobilizer light acts as it should
Being a returnless system the regulator/pump are 1 unit so hoping I don't have to go that far, but will verify with a fuel pressure test.
Possible Fuel Damper or Injector stuck scenario?
NO CEL'S
Anything I'm missing or didn't think of?
Fuel Pressure Regulators are a common failure point in the '06-15 Civic chassis... creating a situation where the fuel pressure is way too high at idle and low RPM operation. Fuel pressures move closer to normal at wide-open-throttle and high throttle angle operation. You can see if this issue is the problem by monitoring your short and long term fuel trims using a live-data scanner: At idle and light throttle low RPM operation, the trims will max out negative... trying to lean out the fuel delivery because of the excessive fuel pressure. Conversely, at highway speeds and under hard acceleration, the fuel trims will move toward zero... likely falling somewhere between -10 and 10. If this is what you experience, replace the fuel pressure regulator. It is available from Honda, can be purchased separately, and will likely cost less than $100.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere,WV
Fuel Pressure Regulators are a common failure point in the '06-15 Civic chassis... creating a situation where the fuel pressure is way too high at idle and low RPM operation. Fuel pressures move closer to normal at wide-open-throttle and high throttle angle operation. You can see if this issue is the problem by monitoring your short and long term fuel trims using a live-data scanner: At idle and light throttle low RPM operation, the trims will max out negative... trying to lean out the fuel delivery because of the excessive fuel pressure. Conversely, at highway speeds and under hard acceleration, the fuel trims will move toward zero... likely falling somewhere between -10 and 10. If this is what you experience, replace the fuel pressure regulator. It is available from Honda, can be purchased separately, and will likely cost less than $100.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere,WV
Well. Scanner doesn't read those parameters so I guess its time to go get a fuel injection test kit. I have comp,leak down,oil/trans pressure,radiator pressure and all those cool tools except for fuel.. rofl. Always works that way.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere,WV
so back to this. Changed fuel pump assembly.
(Regulator is in housing) Still a no go. checked for corrosion at Crank sensor (replaced pigtail) still a no go. Finally getting back around to it and just ordered a crank sensor. Gonna throw it in and see if that's it. I have even made all new grounds for the car. Checked/cleaned all 12v point as well in underhood fuse box thinking corrosion. (Car sits a LOT). Nada. See how this sensor does when it shows. I have also read about battery issues. Just trying to keep chronicled so maybe someone else someday can have yet another itemized list of someone else spending money for the eventual fix so they don't have to.
(Regulator is in housing) Still a no go. checked for corrosion at Crank sensor (replaced pigtail) still a no go. Finally getting back around to it and just ordered a crank sensor. Gonna throw it in and see if that's it. I have even made all new grounds for the car. Checked/cleaned all 12v point as well in underhood fuse box thinking corrosion. (Car sits a LOT). Nada. See how this sensor does when it shows. I have also read about battery issues. Just trying to keep chronicled so maybe someone else someday can have yet another itemized list of someone else spending money for the eventual fix so they don't have to.
If someone has mixed in new gas with old gas you will get all kinds of trouble, detonation out the wazoo. I would drain all the gas out and start with fresh . Will be the fastest way to find just what is causing all the problems .....jmho
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere,WV
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Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere,WV
So FINALLY fixed this issue.
I was tired of messing around and said screw it and bought CAM and Crank Sensors. Both parts were replaced by 1 of the shops it visited with cheap aftermarket junk sensors causing issues. Replaced with Denso and Hitachi units respectively and BAM first hit of the key every time. I had even went as far as putting a New battery in the car as it is known this chassis has electrical gremlins in its own right.
Just wanted to Update this as Fixed since its pretty high up on the google search of D17 civic Crank/No start.
I was tired of messing around and said screw it and bought CAM and Crank Sensors. Both parts were replaced by 1 of the shops it visited with cheap aftermarket junk sensors causing issues. Replaced with Denso and Hitachi units respectively and BAM first hit of the key every time. I had even went as far as putting a New battery in the car as it is known this chassis has electrical gremlins in its own right.
Just wanted to Update this as Fixed since its pretty high up on the google search of D17 civic Crank/No start.
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