Hey all!

I introduced myself and began my car story here if anyone is interested - Intro Thread w/ PICS

The world of Honda cars is new to me and I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to start and what information I need to get the ball rolling.

Here's what I think I know:
YMM: 1994 Honda Accord
Trim: EX
Body: Sedan
Trans: 5 speed manual
Engine: 2.2L VTEC

As I go into the FAQ page here - FAQ Link - I am met early with things like F22B2, F22, F22B1, F22Ax, F23Ax and so on...

What are the basics I should know about this new to me Accord to make my research into fixing it easier? What is the engine code I have? What stuff is interchangeable and what isn't? Is this actually an EX model with a 2.2L VTEC engine?

Please help this Honda noob get this old car back in action!

Also any tips in regards to what areas to be more cautious when I hit the engine bay with degreaser and a hose would be phenomenal as I am completely unfamiliar with the engine bay and layout of this car. ie: where the ECU is located so I don't blast that with water and make matters worse haha. I'm going to guess top left near the cab as it appears that's the fuse box? I really haven't gotten any further than popping the hood and quickly glancing around, but this weekend I aim to spend some time on it and with some luck start to order parts to get things moving in the right direction.

 

Located the engine code F22B1.

 

Clean looking engine bay, nice. The ecu is located in the front passenger foot well. Your info list is correct, you'll feel the VTEC kick in at 2300-2500rpms. Getting a Helms(dealer/factory) manual in either physical or PDF form is a huge step up from Chilton as it has so many diagnostic guides to use. I strongly recommend changing the trans fluid, as most people don't bother changing a manual's fluid, like ever. I recommend Redline MTF sku #50204.

 

Other advice ill offer is to get the correct fitment for the radiator hoses. Those universal bendy hoses contain a lot of metal bands which like to rust over time.

Change your PCV valve, probably hasnt been changed in forever and they are cheap

Take a pciture of the sticker on top of your fuse box before it peels off. You may need it later

Change transmission fluid (gear oil) as others have said.

Use ony honda genuine power steering fluid if possible. Everything else can get away using whatever brand fluid you like. Caveat, don't use GM dexcool coolant for the radiator, anything blue or green should be safe.

I usually change the radiator cap on just about any vehicle I get used just to be safe.

 

Hey Luke, thank you.
front passenger footwell, nice. that's great info. I appreciate it!
I'm not even sure what I'm feeling for with VTEC, but regardless this thing is a hoot to drive.
Roger that, I'll look for a Helms manual. I'd really like to have one as a guide for this.
LOL. Right? I have that high on my priority list. Redline MTF #50204. Cool! I appreciate the recommendation. Do you by chance know the oil capacity for the trans? The first time I got under the car, I could smell something like gear oil so my fear is there's not only ancient trans fluid but it's also leaking. For what it's worth the trans shifts smooth so long as I don't make a mistake. Double clutching it shifts like butter.

Good to know. I saw somewhere some aftermarket silicone radiator hose kits, but I'll price out some Gates hoses first and see what makes the most sense.

PCV Valve. Roger that. Any brand recommendations outside of OEM?

Great thinking! I will do that. Thank you.

Aye. Trans fluid will be changed.

Only genuine Honda PSF. Understood! I enjoy knowing specifics like this, thank you! blue or green coolant. Got it. Huh, I hadn't considered changing the rad cap, but that's like 10 bucks so better safe than sorry.

 

I didn’t take an after photo, but changed the valve cover gasket, spark plugs as well as spark plug tube seals. The spark plug tube seals took some finesse with a screw driver to get them out enough to pull them out.

Also cleaned up the carbon deposits I could reach before sealing it back up.

I drove over to a smog shop, but they advised that they think there’s an exhaust leak. So going to track that down and repair before my next.

I saw a tip to run some seafoam through the vent tube while having a head under the car to help located any leaks. Might try that if it isn’t obvious from sound, feel or a piece of paper first.

 

The rcoker arms dont look too bad tbh, ive seen much worse in terms of deposits/varnish gunk. Hell mine was much worse when i pulled it to do head gasket and my engine ran fine.

Re PCV valve, honestly any is fine, i used to use purolator but can see what is available. Maybe just do up a cart on rockauto and get everything cheap.

Re the seafoam i've heard some people have luck with it, I never personally used it for that purpose, just used it as a fuel system cleaner, but yes if you do the vent tube it is definitely going to smoke like crazy, you WILL find your leak lol.

Re the silicone hoses they are fine too, but id say check wehat rockauto has in good ol rubber

 

Thats good to hear! This car has just over 271k on the clock so I’m actually a bit surprised it’s not worse. Especially given my BIL pick it up for a few hundred bucks.

Ok cool. I’ll build up my order and get it all coming. PCV valve, rad hoses, and whatever exhaust gaskets appear to be leaking (and maybe just need to be tightened). Hopefully no cracks, but I can weld up any issue like that as a bandage to get me by.

I’ve never used seafoam, but from the videos I’ve seen it appears to be straight forward. Don’t let it take in too much all at once, and only I think 3/4 ounces total.

Any advice or can you point me in the right direction for this:
my initial suspect is motor mounts, trans mount, or drive axles.

When under load - and worse when turning - I can hear what sounds like rotational clunking coming from the front end. (Mind you this isn’t spirited, just casual) coming around a corner, 2nd gear, ease back onto the gas and it’s an audible clunking as well as you can feel it. Reminds me of a friends Toyota pickup with a DIY square slip joint driveshaft. I also get the same sound and feel when I shift into 3rd around 30mph. So lower rpm, grab 3rd and as I apply gas I can hear and feel the front end rotational “clunk”.

I do need to get my floor jack under the motor and apply some pressure to see if the motor lifts independently from the chassis and that’s a quick and dirty method to check the mounts.
But not sure how to check the axles yet as I haven’t searched.

 

Sounds like axles to me. Check the boots for damage. Even when my motor mounts were shot I didnt get any sort of clunking like that.

 

Seems the most likely as it does make a rotational noise. When I glanced at them the boots looked ok, but they had some movement in and out.