My rear break lines need replacing; one has a fissure and the other has a hairline crack I ordered 2 OEM hard lines and have begun the repair. I have managed to remove the entire line except the the front bend. Apparently, I am not the only one who struggled with this. oneheadlight was kind enough to help the misguided poster and other readers like me. I need to slightly lower the subframe. I am a little intimidated by this, but I have tried to understand what needs to happen. The video posted in this thread leads to think I have to empty the engine bay! Which, I am not prepared to do. The service manual also didn't help.

Does anyone have advice on how to partially lower the subframe without removing the majority of the contents of the engine bay? So far I have done nothing in the engine bay except disconnect the two rear lines from the proportioning valve.

If I were to guess I would try something like the
1. Support the subframe and chassis with jackstands (in case I guess wrong). Use a jack on the driver side subframe
2. Find the 5 bolts mentioned in video 1, but for the driver side and remove them. Slowly lower jack until about 0.5 inches is available.
3. Replace the brake line.
4. Lift the subframe with the jack and reattach the 5 driver side bolts to 66+ lb ft (+ is for re-using the bolts).

Thanks, in advance, for helping an aspiring hobbyist.


Video 1: www.youtube.com/watch?v=-T1j-gxEkbY&t=324s

 

My guess failed to take into account that the subframe is supported by the upper control arm and the struts. I disconnected them and the subframe would still not move. The subframe was too rigid to make room to remove the brake lines. I ended up buying stainless steel braided lines and using them instead. While routing the lines I learned you have restricted access to the lines through the driver side wheel well and above a heat shield attached to the subframe.

Maybe someday, when I am a real man, I'll be able to drop the subframe and use the OEM brake lines. Until then, I'll keep them as a badge of shame.