1990 Honda Accord almost starts
THIS IS VERY LONG BUT FULL RUNDOWN OF PAST 2 WEEKS
Hey everyone, ive got a 1990 honda accord that will almost run, let me start from the beginning. First got the car 3 months ago at 91k miles original engine. Everything was good running perfect when i got it did brakes, oil, trans fluid, air filter. Now a couple weeks ago i went to start up the car in the morning it idled fine and i went to go give it gas and it started sputtering and bogging very badly. I was late too work i said f it im leaving anyway and could barely get up to 40 mph. After 5 mins i turned around and headed back home and turned into my neighborhood and it stalled. Tried to restart it wouldnt. Pushed it back. Alright, now after that i flashed the cel it was code 14. IAC valve which i thought was the problem anyway had similar problems on a chevy prizm. Anyways replaced that and cleaned valve to IAC and throttle body. I changed out spark plugs and also tested them. I have spark. That didnt fix so i went to fuel and i wasnt getting fuel i replaced the pump and relay without testing, parts were cheap and its a old car anyway. Still didnt work i tested the fuel pump was getting no power and tested relay i wasnt getting power to relay. So i did a fuel pump wiring kit and bypassed the stock relay and now i have power to pump. At this point is when i would almost start it would start and immediately die basically. So i looked up this symptom every thing i read seemed fuel related i changed out fuel injectors also and was going to change fuel filter i have that but i can hear fuel getting through those injectors when i turn the pump on. Ive checked for vacuum leaks nothing seems obvious but im really stumped. I havent checked compression yet. I want to pull the timing cover and check the belt but it’s a pretty big job. Anything would be helpful. Thank you.
Hey everyone, ive got a 1990 honda accord that will almost run, let me start from the beginning. First got the car 3 months ago at 91k miles original engine. Everything was good running perfect when i got it did brakes, oil, trans fluid, air filter. Now a couple weeks ago i went to start up the car in the morning it idled fine and i went to go give it gas and it started sputtering and bogging very badly. I was late too work i said f it im leaving anyway and could barely get up to 40 mph. After 5 mins i turned around and headed back home and turned into my neighborhood and it stalled. Tried to restart it wouldnt. Pushed it back. Alright, now after that i flashed the cel it was code 14. IAC valve which i thought was the problem anyway had similar problems on a chevy prizm. Anyways replaced that and cleaned valve to IAC and throttle body. I changed out spark plugs and also tested them. I have spark. That didnt fix so i went to fuel and i wasnt getting fuel i replaced the pump and relay without testing, parts were cheap and its a old car anyway. Still didnt work i tested the fuel pump was getting no power and tested relay i wasnt getting power to relay. So i did a fuel pump wiring kit and bypassed the stock relay and now i have power to pump. At this point is when i would almost start it would start and immediately die basically. So i looked up this symptom every thing i read seemed fuel related i changed out fuel injectors also and was going to change fuel filter i have that but i can hear fuel getting through those injectors when i turn the pump on. Ive checked for vacuum leaks nothing seems obvious but im really stumped. I havent checked compression yet. I want to pull the timing cover and check the belt but it’s a pretty big job. Anything would be helpful. Thank you.
My two thoughts as you have already been looking int them are:
#1 I would loosen a fuel line or remove it under the hood and place it in a pop bottle to ensure that you are getting fuel to the engine. You can simply cycle the key on/off a couple of times.
#2 I would check the timing belt. With only 91K miles, I assume that it has the original timing belt. They don't always break, they can rot and stretch, causing the image to lose enough timing that it acts like it is off a couple of teeth.
This happened on my 93 accord (5 years ago). I got it at 200k. My car was getting more and more sluggish and was becoming hard to start. Sure enough, the belt was rotting and I was losing timing. Keep in mind that there are 2 timing belts with this car as one is an engine balancing belt. You can pull the top cover (usually pull the valve cover as well to see cam marks) to see the cam timing marks and compare that with the crank/flywheel marks. You can also see if the belt is rotten.
#1 I would loosen a fuel line or remove it under the hood and place it in a pop bottle to ensure that you are getting fuel to the engine. You can simply cycle the key on/off a couple of times.
#2 I would check the timing belt. With only 91K miles, I assume that it has the original timing belt. They don't always break, they can rot and stretch, causing the image to lose enough timing that it acts like it is off a couple of teeth.
This happened on my 93 accord (5 years ago). I got it at 200k. My car was getting more and more sluggish and was becoming hard to start. Sure enough, the belt was rotting and I was losing timing. Keep in mind that there are 2 timing belts with this car as one is an engine balancing belt. You can pull the top cover (usually pull the valve cover as well to see cam marks) to see the cam timing marks and compare that with the crank/flywheel marks. You can also see if the belt is rotten.
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sirhk100
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Jul 13, 2004 01:35 PM






