2018 odyssey EX-L Sliding Door Problem
I tried opening the right sliding door on a very cold morning and it messed up. Now have the Right Sliding Door Problem on the dashboard which is annoying. I cannot open or close the passenger sliding door at all yet the drivers side is ok.
Checked the fuses. I can open and close manually but get resistance after I start pushing it to open or close, feels like some motor resistence, not sure. None of the buttons on dash, key FOB or door handle works.
Does anyone have an electrical schematic for the right sliding door circuit so I can start troubleshooting? thanks for your help.
Checked the fuses. I can open and close manually but get resistance after I start pushing it to open or close, feels like some motor resistence, not sure. None of the buttons on dash, key FOB or door handle works.
Does anyone have an electrical schematic for the right sliding door circuit so I can start troubleshooting? thanks for your help.
Here's my symptoms with this thing:
The drivers side sliding door works fine, so I have that to go on, for comparison.
In Auto Door mode, when I open the passenger door it will allow me to move it without resistence for a few inches and then there is resistence. The door is not actually moving when I am doing this, just resistence like the motor is fighting me. There is a long beep as soon as the resistence starts as well.
When I open the passenger side door in manual mode I get the beeping noise for a second. On the drivers side door I get no beep. I need to figure out what the beep is for.
The door locks both when its opened and when it's closed. Is that an indicator the door control unit is powered up and working?
I am wondering if I should open the passenger door all the way and disconnect the battery, wait awhile and then reconnect, clear all the DTCs and manually close the door. Not sure if this will reset it or make things worse?
The drivers side sliding door works fine, so I have that to go on, for comparison.
In Auto Door mode, when I open the passenger door it will allow me to move it without resistence for a few inches and then there is resistence. The door is not actually moving when I am doing this, just resistence like the motor is fighting me. There is a long beep as soon as the resistence starts as well.
When I open the passenger side door in manual mode I get the beeping noise for a second. On the drivers side door I get no beep. I need to figure out what the beep is for.
The door locks both when its opened and when it's closed. Is that an indicator the door control unit is powered up and working?
I am wondering if I should open the passenger door all the way and disconnect the battery, wait awhile and then reconnect, clear all the DTCs and manually close the door. Not sure if this will reset it or make things worse?
Yes, disconnecting the battery solved the problem. I closed the sliding door that wasn't working and pressed the Start/Stop button twice (without the brake pedal depressed) which is the "On" mode, engine not running. Then I made sure the Sliding Door master On/Off button was on. I believe this was sending 12volts to the sliding door control. Then I unplugged the positive from the battery and left it that way maybe 30 minutes to bleed off any charge caps, etc.
Reconnected it and everything is fine, even the annoying "Right Sliding Door Problem that took up the whole instrument display disappeared. I shouted "Praise God" it was resolved. Now I don't have to pry the door panel off (hoping to not break any plastic) for futher troubleshooting.
Reconnected it and everything is fine, even the annoying "Right Sliding Door Problem that took up the whole instrument display disappeared. I shouted "Praise God" it was resolved. Now I don't have to pry the door panel off (hoping to not break any plastic) for futher troubleshooting.
Rear sliding door's latch assembly (there are 2 latch assembly) is known to act up when it approaches ~ 10 year, and requires re-lubrication. Certainly you will find most post for Gen 1, and 2, less for Gen 3, and even less for Gen 4 (as its grease take time to dry up).
If you live in a dusty or dryer area, then the lubrication will get contaminated sooner, or dry up sooner. Therefore, some owner experience sliding door stop working sooner than other.
You can replaces the entire latch assembly. E.g. left door's part is 72650-THR-A12, or removes entire assembly then removes the plastic cover to reveal the gears and motor.
In general, there are 2 latching assembly that requires re-lubricate:
1. latching sensor - actually it s a SDST microswitch. The gears around the microswitch dried up so you need to lubricate for those gears, so that they can touch the microswitch for both open and close
2. latching U hook - when you close the door, the U hook will touch the latch at the car's body. When the U hook is turned/rotate, then the electric motor will activate to close the door further, and finally the U hook will turn to a lock position. Lubricates the gears around electric motor, as well as all the gears that turns the U hook
If the problem is the latching U hook, and this is at the beginning of the problem, then you can uses a wooden stick or metal rod to push and pull on the U hook with the sliding door open. Moves the U hook several times, and you might be able to temporary fix it, and buy you more times to lubricate entire assembly
I don't have experience open up this model of the latching assembly, so above is just a hint
Note: Randomly spraying lubricant from outside, such as WD-40 won't be able to lubricate it
If you live in a dusty or dryer area, then the lubrication will get contaminated sooner, or dry up sooner. Therefore, some owner experience sliding door stop working sooner than other.
You can replaces the entire latch assembly. E.g. left door's part is 72650-THR-A12, or removes entire assembly then removes the plastic cover to reveal the gears and motor.
In general, there are 2 latching assembly that requires re-lubricate:
1. latching sensor - actually it s a SDST microswitch. The gears around the microswitch dried up so you need to lubricate for those gears, so that they can touch the microswitch for both open and close
2. latching U hook - when you close the door, the U hook will touch the latch at the car's body. When the U hook is turned/rotate, then the electric motor will activate to close the door further, and finally the U hook will turn to a lock position. Lubricates the gears around electric motor, as well as all the gears that turns the U hook
If the problem is the latching U hook, and this is at the beginning of the problem, then you can uses a wooden stick or metal rod to push and pull on the U hook with the sliding door open. Moves the U hook several times, and you might be able to temporary fix it, and buy you more times to lubricate entire assembly
I don't have experience open up this model of the latching assembly, so above is just a hint
Note: Randomly spraying lubricant from outside, such as WD-40 won't be able to lubricate it
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