I'm no expert, and don't drive this car myself, but have a bit of experience and am trying to troubleshoot my issue.
I have a Honda that was generally working well until a family member reported lights and gauges on the dash periodically acting sporadic. It drove home fine, and I took a look at it and noticed the negative battery terminal connection was loose. I fixed the terminal connection and checked most of the fuses, but when I went to restart the car I have a crank, no start issue. The car sounds normal to me, but when I let off the starter it seems to want to start a bit more than when I am holding it.

The green key immobilizer light comes on as I expect.
I pulled the plugs after trying to start and there was gas on them and they looked to be in good condition. I can also hear the fuel pump when powering up the car.
I pulled each ignition coil and ran a wire with a gap to ground and observed a spark from each one when trying to start the car.
Checked compression with a gauge and measured a max of ~180 psi, similar in all cylinders.
EDIT: I also checked the timing, and it is inline so no belt slip.

Trying to find my next trouble shooting steps, if there is wet fuel on the spark plugs that suggests no ignition?

I have a scanner and there are usually no codes, however if I try to start the car for long enough the scanner can report P0113, and P1705. Whats odd though is if I turn the key off and back on, they disappear...
Reading the temps from the air temp and coolant agree with ambient.

I saw some info online that there may be two coolant temperature sensors and if they disagree, it could lead to a crank no start but I can't find another temp sensor (just the fan switch). Is this a concern with this vehicle?

Also the RPM on the cluster does not move when trying to start the car, but when I read with out with the scanner it shows about 260 RPM when cranking. Is this expected?

Thanks for reading.

 

I am having the same issues as you. Did you happen to figure out what your issue was?

 

It didn't work for me, but I'd also suggest unplugging the crankshaft position sensor (even if you don't have a code) and trying to start the car with it unplugged (crank will take longer than normal). If it starts you know you need a new sensor.
Here is a video about where to find it:
I think in my case I might have both a bad crank and cam shaft sensor, and that is probably more than I am going to risk replacing with no fix guaranteed.