was reading some old forums about valve lash adjustments and found the correct specs (intake = .007-.009" exhaust = .009-.011"). However they also noted that they prefer .006"/.008". Does anyone know if this "preference" is beneficial or makes any difference? Thanks.

 

If your engine is stock, I would follow the Helm manual, which recommends intake = .007-.009" exhaust = .009-.011".

 

And my little trick is to use the middle value (0.008" intake and 0.010" exhaust) so that if I end up slightly tight it's the tight end of spec and if I end up slightly loose, it's the loose side of spec. Has worked well for me for years now as I end up within spec every time.

 

This is an ideal way to approach a valve adjustment.

 

i have done that with my valves, my issue is I’ve done it 3 separate times thinking I did it right but valve lash is still happening, I have had people look over to make sure it’s fine but at idle I don’t hear any ticks or knocks but then when I reach 2500 rpm it starts again and then goes away at idle I’m not sure if my valves are now broken? I’m not sure what to do any suggestions?

 

its gonna rattle a little at 2500, its at idle that you worry about the sounds. If it clicks, you have too much gap . Pop the valve cover off, take the plugs out and spin the engine Watch the rockers go up and down. If they all move the same way, nothing is broken, I set mine at 9 all the way around, Its within spec and seems to work for me

 

So to be clear if there’s no rattle or tick at idle, I have nothing to worry about just drive the car for a week or so nd if there’s still no change then everything is fine? Like I have risk of damaging parts and the rattle at 2500 is just the engine slowing getting its self in place again?