2002 CRV crank but no start.
I drove it and parked it. The boy went to drive it the next day and said it would not start. I think the alarm was on. Tuned off the alarm and still no start.
This just seems like I am missing something simple but.....

I ran through the wires, the grounds and the MX manual conclusion was to R&R the ECM with a known good ECM.

Sen the ECM off for ops check and repair as necessary and was advised it need to be replaced with the special "keys" reinstalled for my CRV which should make it plug and play.

Same issue. Crank but no start.

I get no ground at the injectors which looks like it is through the ECM.
I get no signal from the ECM to the coils when cranking.

What sayeth the experts?

Here is the wiring that I had followed;
Denso coils

PGM-FI

Thanks

 

You still having issues?

The first link you shared seems to be diagnostic procedures for a coil. You’ve got something else afoot if all 4 coils aren’t grounding.

Have you checked the PGMI relays (as shown in second link)? I had one go out on me resulting in a crank, but no start condition.

ETA: What’s the deal with the .ru links? Is that for USDM? Or is that a Russian/EDM electrical diagram?

 

Still having issues. I confirmed some wires as being good and it looks like the new ECM did not transfer the security data.
"When the key is inserted in the ignition switch and turned to the (II) position, the immobilizer control unit-receiver sends power to the transponder in the ignition key. The transponder then sends a coded signal back through the immobilizer control unit-receiver to the ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM then energizes the fuel supply system."



Not sure about the .ru link. It is a manual I found on line that seems to be comprehensive.

The ECMguys are trying to determine if their new ECM is bad or failed to accept the new data.

I showed the coils as they get a signal through the ECM and the fuel injectors get a signal from the ECM. I get no injector ground signal which comes through the ECM which may be part of the immobilizer security system not being coded correctly on the new ECM.

This may be why the crank no start as it seems to be designed this way.
Thanks.

 

Is the green key flashing on the dash when you switch the ignition on?

 

Negative sir.

No green light flashing.

Also note that I do not remember this light flashing and it does not come on then go out as advertised when the key is turned on like the other similarly tested systems like the brake light.
I do have continuity and 12v on PIN 5 BLU/ORN wire at the connector of the immobilizer unit. It seems that "if" the light were burned out there would not be 12v making it through this circuit if I understand the wiring correctly.



Also note that the brake light will turn on with the IGN on then goes out but does not come on if I set the parking brake as it is advertised to.

I replaced the MCU a while back when the brake light would not go off and I have an extra MCU I was able to swap out to and still the same symptoms with both MCU's.

Thanks

 

No : Check for these problems:

• Blown No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Fuse is good
• An open in the BLU/ORN wire between the gauge assembly and the immobilizer control unit-receiver. Continuity and 12v at PIN 5 on the connector
• A faulty immobilizer indicator light. Possibly as this light does not come briefly as advertised when IGN is moved to II Is this possible with 12v at the connector?
• An open in the WHT/RED wire between the gauge assembly and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Continuity/12v at PIN 7 on connector

 

1. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control-unit receiver 7P connector No. 4 terminal and body ground with the parking brake lever pulled, then released.

Is there 1 V or less, then 5 V or more?

I am having an issue here as there is no voltage with the PB pulled and release is .001 steady but there is some erratic measurements with pulling and releasing the PB.

As for continuity no with brake released but setting the brake is continuity to ground.

• Faulty parking brake switch or a poor body ground of the parking brake switch. SW is good
• Faulty brake fluid level switch. SW is good
• An open in the GRN/RED wire. Wire has continuity