I recently replaced my oil pan and got my first look at my exhaust manifold, is this normal? I know enough about cars but am very confused at what caused these. The last photo is the most concerning one as it seemingly leaks a fluid that's very black, it doesn't feel like oil on my fingers. When at high rpm it does boil low put exhaust fumes from that port. Any assistance for fixing will be appreciated. I have some high temp jb weld, can I use that?
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I think that those are just typical casting marks. I am certain that if you went to the car wash and cleaned out that roundish hole in the second pic that you would see it is just an impression or missing spot in the engine that goes no where.

If this was anything, your engine would have blown up a long time ago.

 

Okay, for it leaking exhaust and black fluid do I just try a new manifold gasket? It's seems like a pretty big leak.

 

Fluid does not leak out of the exhaust, just exhaust fumes/air/smoke creating noise if the gasket is bad or the manifold is broken. You do get a little bit of condensation that comes out of the end of the tail pipe, but it is too hot near the engine to condensate.

Any oil in the are is from one of a few places.
*Distributor O ring
*Thermostat housing or hose
*Valve cover gasket
*Prob not from a cam seal (end of cam shaft)

 

I'll see if I can get a video but it does infact push liquid out of the dimesized hole, it's black like old oil but I changed the oil and it stays the same. I agree condensation couldn't come out of that hole as the head and manifold would be too hot. I just replaced the entire distributor as the ignition coil was bad and it was $30 more for a new distributor vs a coil. The thermostat isnt leaking and neither is the hose as on that side it stays dry.the valve cover is brand new and stays dry all around. Could this be buildup being pushed out since the car was misfiring for about 200 miles? It was misfiring cylinder 4 and the liquid is coming out of the cyl 4 exhaust port.

 

I went out and looked at my two closest/running 93 Accords. I don't have that hole/indention on either of them. That is near the bottom of the head to block (head gasket). I wonder if it is an old rotting gasket, allowing motor oil to seep out, especially under pressure when the engine is running and it gets drawn into that area??

My +330k mile car is covered with a thick layer of old oil in that area, while my 175k engine is bone dry in that area. I do still have my heat shields in place, so it is harder to see into that area.

If oil is leaking out of that area, it could have nicked an oil passage. Perhaps JB weld on a clean sanded area would fill the whole and stop the leak.

 

I have the means and the ability to replace the head gasket, would you recommend that over putting on the JB weld? Are the engines in those F22b1?

 

I suppose that it is a matter of if it is the head gasket leaking oil. If this is the case and the gasket is rotten, it may have a catastrophic failure at some point or the leak could just get worse and worse until it is spraying oil out.
*With all of my Honda's over the years, I have only lost two head gaskets. One on a 1983 oil to crank passage and on my 1998 compression to water. I have never lost a head gasket on my 87-89, nor on my 90-93 accords. Most cars are between 200k and +300k miles.

If it is a matter of the head missing material (metal) in that hole and oil is coming through the head, than the real fix would be JB weld. Short of removing the head, examining it and aluminum welding that spot. There may be a possibility of warping the head if you are welding that hole, causing other problems, unless you get the head resurfaced afterward.

A good cheap way to determine the issue (hole or head gasket) would be to sand/clean the hole and fill it with JB weld. If this does not cure the issue, plan on replacing the head gasket. This would also be a good time for timing belts, water pump, adjusting valve lash etc. I have successfully JB welded steel oil pans that had a leak in the past.(truck, front drive line lost u-joint and gashed the pan) but I have also seen people try to seal other parts like aluminum crank cases on old motorcycles (rock popped up and cracked the under side of the case) but they still dripped oil. **What I mean by this is do really good prep work and use brake cleaner and air compressor to clean out the hole before using the JB weld, then let it dry as long as you can before you drive the car.

 

Thanks a ton, I have compression tested the car and I get on all cylinders with zero throttle 145-150, I plan on doing timing belts as I don't know the cars history and what I've seen so far I don't trust it was changed. Do you have any recommendations so I don't get the head and the block stuck together when JB welding? Should I put some grease/oil on the block to stop the JB weld from sticking to it? This car is currently titleless so as I gather the paper work to retrieve it I only drive it to test it other than that it sits in my driveway so letting it sit is no problem.

 

I would not seal the head to the block with JB weld. If the oil is actually coming out where they seal together, it is definitely the head gasket. I would only use the the JB weld in the hole in the head.

All that jb weld would do between the head and block would be to make the oil come out in a different place. (just specifically JB weld on the hole)

 

Yes I agree, the hole which it's hard to see in the photo goes down to the block, my worry is when I do jbweld them I'll accidentally attach them. Can I use oil as a deterrent so it doesn't stick to the block?

 

Oil may/should keep it from sticking, but JB well would not be that strong any way. It should still be easy to separate the head/block even with B weld on there. You could also just use a hammer & screwdriver to separate or break the JB weld away if you ever do pull the head. I personally would not worry about it at all.

You could also just use a piece of paper rather than the oil to stop the JB weld from attaching to the head. I would just worry about the oil seeping down into the wrong areas, keeping good adhesion where you need it.

 

Thank you for all your help, I'll use jbweld and see where I get. Worst case I need to do the timing belt so I'll do the head gasket as well. It's got 275k on the odo