Hello all , I have a set of new denji headlights and kept the stock bulbs that came with the denjis , which are h3 -55w and h1 -85w (I believe not sure about the h1's wattage)
Also have connected them together so when I am using high beams, both are on.

Now the high beams are proper and look good.
The problem lies with the low beams , which now they seem weak , does not have the output that I would like.
So the question is this, I would like to keep the boot of the headlights , so no moisture and such can go inside and destroy the headlights.
I found the following bulbs. Osram h1 12V 100W and Osram H3 12V 100W , which would give me 200 wattage in total instead of the 140 wattage which I have currently , again high beams are not the problem , more like the low beams

I am thinking about the heat that the 100W of low beams would output and that kinda stopped me at my tracks to go and buy them.
I do not want to destroy the lens (backside reflective side due to heat) , cause they are glass headlights , so the glass part will be ok.
Does any of you have any experience , with high W halogen bulbs in denji headlights or has anyone fitted LEDs with a fan and does it fit with the stock boot? in order to keep moisture and other elements away (I could potentially cut the boot for the fan and silicone it)
Osram would be the most simple way but again not sure with the heat management

 

H1 was never meant to be used as a headlight. Best option is to retrofit a 9006 style projector into the denji low beam side.

 

Que?
That is exactly what I am trying to do here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/lighti...i-trs-3369209/

 

Question - have you aimed the new lights?

 

Hello , yes the are aimed , just lumen problem I guess , in another eg , we made custom wiring to have 100W bulbs and they seem to work just fine in the stock headlights for many years ~10 atm (but they have more space for the heat) , but I am worried about the temperature with halogen bulbs in 100W , for the low beams , I might just get some h3 leds (2150 lumens) advertised just to try them out , these will be cooler for sure, but halogen would be they way to go due to they are lower kelvin and you would have better visibility at rain/fog
Note: The h3 are for the low beams and are on projector.

 

I think denji headlights use h3 for low beams , and h1 for high beams if I am not mistaken

 

Yeah same style bulb with a different connector. The reason you need to run 100w is because the bulbs are made for use in accessory lights, not headlights.

It's a cheap manufacturing hack on a otherwise good looking headlight. I have a couple other styles of headlights with proper 9006 bulbs but I prefer the denji on looks alone.

 

Oh I see , now I get it , so if either I am going to use h1 or h3 for the projector (low beam) , do you think 100w could damage the reflector ? or should be ok , or should I go with the led route or try to find h1/h3 at around 80w?
Also to use h1 in the low beams I need to use a washer right for the ground?

 

Sorry, you're looking for an h3 bulb for the low side. A decent 5k hid bulb would probably look alright.

 

When you say that now they look dull, did you use de Denji wire loom ? It seems that without it there is not enough power feeding the H3 55w bulbs and that's why there is the optional Denji wire loom.
On my project car the Denji loom is not used and it seems weak indeed.

I'm in the process of installing new H3 LED bulbs ( not many options i'm afraid) and i got the Philips Ultinon Pro9100 (LUM11336U91X2) that came out like 2months ago and prefer this option for the reason you mentioned about heat.
I've only installed one side atm because the washer fluid bottle is in the way on the passenger side, the bulbs fan pokes out quite a bit, so i'll try to force that today.

*But* the one side i did install, well nothing happens, no light and the fan doesn't start, i'm suspecting again that the og loom has not the needed power so i'll probably have to install the Denji wire loom.
Did you get any further since the last post ?

 

Hello , I have used the denji wire loom, due to the fact that when you open high beams , both low and high open , so you get both of them open which is great!
Now , I haven't got around it, to change any bulbs , was looking for LED ones that don't have a fan , due to the fact I want to keep the rubber caps , so no moisture will go in. The stock loom should work fine , I would suggest looking for your fuses that could cause the problem.

If I remember correctly there should be 2 different fuses (under the dashboard driver side) , one for the left side (headlights) and one for the right side.

For now I kept the stock ones , but keep that In mind for the denji's with LEDS with fans, its a fine balance between moisture and destroying it via heat , although heat would take more years to f*** up the lens, that's why I was looking for the OSRAM's
Best option is to either find a 80W halogen bulb , or 15-20W (maybe a bit more) LED one that does not require a fan , you would be safer with LED no fan though,
For the high beams you should be fine with a 100w halogen though.

P.S By dull , I just mean weak , they have clarity but like they seem to just be not powerful enough.
P.S 2 , If its easy for you can you upload some pictures with the fan attached and the headlight (complete assembly)

 

I would vote for pictures!

 

Hey
Fuses are good, when i put back standard H3 bulbs they do work.
Most leds with fans will produce way less heat than a bulb from what i've seen.
The caps could fit quite easily with a small x-shaped opening letting just the fan poke out ( that's my plan for it if/when they'll work )

I will do a cross test with the drivers side bulb, maybe it's just one that's defective. i'll brute force the fan passenger side and check when they are both connected if there is a difference or not.



Here are the pictures :



1 cable goes to fan, an other one to the H3 bulb, they connect to the Philips Driver and then it's just 1 cable


12 / 24 V 20W Driver Box

passenger side. no space for the fan, it will be brute force

Today, i've added all the w5w bulbs that where missing; rear plates, sides, next will be the front and rear fogs ( all the lights have to be working for MOT inspection here )

I would be dissapointed if those Philips leds won't work because ...they should ! Something weird with the ground of the H3 bulbs ? if i'm not mistaken the ground has something to do with the metal clip that holds the bulb in place ?
i do my best but i have a lot to learn :/

 

Yes , you are correct regarding the ground , it needs to make a very good contact , had the same issue when I changed the original bulbs that came with the denjis , and I didn't install the passenger side properly, would sometimes make contact thus wouldn't work all the time , my advice would be either install them outside of the car (the bulbs) or undo the clip and rotate the bulb itself until you feel it going in to position and be kind of stuck there , basically if its fully in , you don't need to hold it in place with your fingers (if I remember correctly). I think there is a driver on the bulb itself

 

i managed to get the multimeter out and test quickly.
Seems indeed that it's grounding correctly on the denji's metal tab but not at all on the bulb.
I'll dremel the bulb a bit and test if it does the trick.



any suggestions welcome

 

The red part is your ground , should make very good contact , by your picture can't really see it , does that exists or because you have some drivers are not needed?

 

H1 is what Honda uses for my 2005 CR-V low beam.

 

Yes, it's a kind of ring :

LED without the fan installed

Zones in green = ground OK with +-12.4v

So with the motor running i have +-14.4v directly on the battery terminals.

When i test for voltage with my multimeter in 20V mode , i put my black cable in that green zone where it closes the loop and gives +- 12.4v
My red test wire goes on the positive connector.


i tried bot headlights this time, got same readings but same results.
low beams led won't come on, the H1's do work both sides.

i put normal H3 bulbs again and they do work as well.
Those are 200$ led bulbs and i had high hopes as this would be the ideal plug&play solution for the denji's.

 

Well , I would suggest try to run them without putting them into the headlight itself , so you can make sure they are working again. just ground them with a crocodile clip the rest as they are , if they do working outside of the headlight , not sure , since the loop is closing , otherwise you might need to contact the shop and replace them!

 

Well , thanks for the help and suggestions.
Looks like with a classic h3 bulb you can indeed solder a wire to the body as a fix but here with this led version it's just not working.
They do get power but the loop is not closing with a proper ground.
Had high hopes tbh.

Sending this back and installing the osram night breaker lasers ( classic H3 bulb ) instead.
I'll see if it's worth fitting others projectors in the denji's otherwise i'll go with chinese headlights stuff that has led drl and stuff.

tempted to maybe test the DDM Tuning Saber 55W ProX Accu/V2 LED Kit H3 but i'm a bit afraid to get the same negative results as with these Ultinons from Philips...

 

Hi guys, so as i said, i prepared the lights to send them back in their postal box but had to try it again a last time.

I wired a ground on the bulb, on the headlights and .... nothing.
Put them back in the postal back ready to send them.
Went to amazon to check others models from philips for the H1 bulbs when i read the post of a fellow mate that had the same issue with the H1's... he send them back , ordered other ones and same problem.
Kudo's to him, being the only one with the answer and solution.
So here it is :
As seen in the picture above, the cable from the driver has an all in one red and black cable connecting to the headlights cable.
Believe it or not but you can separate them with pliers :




Redone a clean cabling


For the Driver's side i had to use the heat gun and melt - reshaped the washer fluid bottle so the headlights could fit with the H3 leds with active cooling :



And here are the results :





I'm very happy now.
They really are pure white and brightness is superb.

I'm gonna order aftermarket silicone caps for the headlights, they have an opening where you simply let the fan out and protects the headlights quite well.

So, it works but you have to know the howto because theres is nothing on the website or the manual about his.
I'll wait a bit and install the same leds for the H1's later on. Have a lot of other stuff to do on the car, maybe i'll make a thread of the build.

thanks for the help and suggestions.

Edit: @LittleHesus
if you prefer without fan, you have the Philips "Acces LED" in H3
The upgrade from those are the Pro3021 and Pro5100 both without driver if i'm not mistaken with fan and these shown here are the Pro9100
The Pro's in some countries they are not road legal tho.
The alternative is than the 'Acces' (no fan) and 'Essential LED' (with fan) series with integrated drivers.

 

That sounds like a hard-fought victory, but it is a victory!

Good job...