I got a gutted eg hatch with a b20 swap to go in but I changed my mind and want to go h series(h2b)

I'm gonna be an all motor H2B so which is better for my setup. H22a1 or h22a4 for power(staying stock motor and only bolt ons) I'm most likely gonna have it paired up with a b16 transmission, but what about the gsr and Ls for an n/a h2b for 1/8th and highway racing, will b16 better than the other two

What h2b kits y'all suggest. Heard good things about QSD. But I can't seem to find a way to buy it from their website. Can I use eg b series motor mounts

Any b series clutch and flywheel work on the h22 with a h2b kit correct? I'm going with a stage 1 clutch kit from eBay

 

All motor H2B eg hatch so which is better for my setup. H22a1 or h22a4 (staying stock motor and only bolt ons). B16 trans.

 

They are pretty much the same. The A4 has floating pin pistons and connecting rods which frees up a couple of HP.

 

Alr thanks man all really needed to know that the a4 is better than the a1

 

Barely... but yes, it is slightly better. Especially if it is a '98 or newer A4 because the crankshaft has larger main journals and thus better lubrication over the A1 and earlier A4's.

 

I did not know that the newer the better. Ok I'll be in a lookout for 98+. Any other way of identifying the 97 and 98+ if the seller does not know the year. If they let me open the motor, the main journals are located in the oil pain right?

 

If you want to make sure that you get a 55mm main journal sized H22A4, buy one with a manufacturer/serial number that begins with a "3" or greater. This is the 7-digit number found just below the "H22A4" stamping on the block. A late-production "2" block may also be a big main journal block, but there is no outward visible way to identify it... you must open up the block and measure. Yes, the mains are found inside the block, visible when you remove the oil pan, oil pump pick-up and windage tray.

 

This is exactly what I need to know, thanks