the car drives normal but when i get into VTEC the thing bogs really bad like its going to blow up type stuff i havnt pushed thru the bog to scared fr. ive checked every forum on this and not a single 1 had a answer that worked to fix it.

 

Besides forums... what have you checked ?

 

I haven’t checked anything on the car don’t even know where to start kinda new to this stuff In general don’t have that mechanic brain yet.

 

Mmmmm, could be several things, just keep researching and troubleshooting.
Just a shot in the dark but it might be the catalytic converter. My 92 civic had some bogging because of that. The cats don't last forever and the way they generally fail is by getting plugged up, thus cutting off the exhaust flow, leading to bogging at high RPMs.

Since your new to civic life, it's also worth checking fluid, performing an oil change, and letting the gas tank get almost empty then filling it with fresh. Unless you are 100% sure the oil is good.

Also check your intake filter and air flow.
Good luck~!

PS: A failing cat can often lead to a noticable sulfur/brimstone smell, do pay attention to the scents and sounds your car makes, it's not all visual.

 

Thanks for the info yea did oil change like 2 months ago looks fine trans fluid might be lil low but sumtimes it i do smell fuel so it might be rich idk tho if that says anything. might take off my intake filter and try to do it without it and see what happens. i hope it aint a ECU problem or sumthing crazy. is that sulfur/brim the only way to tell if your cat is bad?? cuz i dotn smell any weird stuff just gas sumtimes. ima try later today not WOT and in just neutral and see if it bogs while not moving. ill get a VID also so people can see what it looks like cuz even on youtube i look this UP not a single VIDEO on the earth talks about this. IF U COME ACROSS any new info please LMK

 

YO I HAVE A Video's if u it gives u a better idea.

 

STILL NEED HELP PLEASE IVE PUT VIDEOS OF IT DOING IT ABOVE

 

First... stop yelling. Take a deep breath and exhale. This is not an emergency... your car drives just fine below 5000 rpm. You can still get to work, meet your friends at the movies, etc... you just can't beat on your car and crack VTEC or bang it off the rev limiter.

Your issue could be caused by a LOT of things... this isn't necessarily a simple fix. This is likely why you aren't getting much assistance in this thread. You need to post what you have tried so far, what you have ruled out, and what you intend to test moving forward. Throwing parts at it will get expensive. Since you haven't suggested or provided any check-engine codes, I am leaning toward an ECU problem. The easy way to diagnose this is to try a "known good" ECU... but you may not have an extra or access to one.

You need a mindset of "test and eliminate" to start sorting this out. Here is the order in which I would test:

Oil Level. What type and viscosity are you using ?
Does your Speedometer work ?
VTEC solenoid and Pressure Switch - can you click the solenoid with a test wire ? You may be able to jump the pressure switch with a paper-clip.
Continuity of wiring between the VTEC assembly and ECU (eliminating breaks or shorts in the wire). VTS = A4; VTP = D6. If you don't have VTEC related codes, a wiring issue is highly unlikely.
ECU. Substitute a "known good" functioning ECU to see if your engine functions differently.

If all of this passes muster, you will NOT like the remaining possibilities because they include the engine being damaged.

UNLESS

Something has occurred that you may have done that caused your problem.

Was the car fine when you first got it and now it has this problem ? If so, have you taken the head apart or tried to perform any routine maintenance ?

 

I use 5w30 oil level is fine theres enough
Speedo works
pressure switch is damaged in the pic above idk if it works.
havnt checked the wiring it all looks fine tho the VTEC looks like its hard wired in.
i dont have check engine light on so 0 codes ig
dont got a extra ECU
car was fine when i got it no problems its been fine for about a year. I dont beat on it like everyone else does to their cars but i do from time to time. i mean i did take the cover off the ECU to look at it but like idk if it was doing it before or after so i cant say. d
idk what i would do if i took the head off.
i recently checked the solenoid gasket it looked fine but it does leak on the bottom
ima try sum stuff

 

YO JUST CHECKED THE PICS I TOOK WHEN I LOOKED AT MY ECU AND LOOKS LIKE THERS A BURN MARK ON THE TOP RIGHT. sorry for caps u think that would cause it??.

 

 

The damage to the burned device alone should not pose a problem... however, if any traces or other devices in the surrounding area to the burned device got damaged... maybe. I would say it is highly unlikely that this is your issue. The way that this part of the ECU gets damaged is by plugging in the wrong engine harness clip to the IAT sensor and the EVAP Purge device... and since you have stated that you haven't done anything to the car before this issue of no VTEC began, then you wouldn't have damaged the ECU yourself... it was likely done prior to you owning it.

 

ight what do u think i should start with like a list to go down and check 1 by 1 that u would recommend cuz i dont wanna bring it to the dealership so they find it. thats last resort honestly they charge to much. i checked the solenoid gasket looks clean tbh it is leaking but thats fine we will try the wire thing u told my mom but yea

 

This is your problem! Get the PSI switch fixed and make sure the Vtec is hard wired correctly,

 

Yea it use to RUN fine i think the vtec is wired Fine but ima replace the Switch and ill lyk if that fixes it

 

ight so the 3 things i changed was the VTEC switch, the Solenoid gaskets (both), and unplugged the battery. i was low on gas so i went to get sum (filled almost full like 98% maybe full) and the car started to like sputter/hesitate maybe, ill send a vid of what im talking about. So i did a pull VTEC cracked and i made it up to about 6-6500 maybe 7k but it hit like another wall like before it wont go pass. forgot to record the pull sadly. but idk if feels sluggish now like loss of power maybe hard to tell. but i checked the codes cant read them pretty hard to understand honestly if 1 of u can do that for me ill post the vid also please and thanks. if u want me to record a pull lmk ill do it again. Ive showed other people they think its fuel related also told me to check timing so those might be the next steps going forward unless u guys have easier tasks to check first.

 

Yes, first thing to check is mechanical timing, make sure the cams line up at TDC, if that's good then check the valve lash! do this while engine is stone cold, use a feeler gauge and the proper tool and check each cylinder's valve lash and if any are tight or loose set them to the proper gap. Next would be to check the ignition timing, check it with a timing light and set the timing as best as you can.

 

In your "Codes" video, the "Check Engine" light came on and stayed on which means that you have no stored codes. The SRS light did flash but the 11 and 51 codes have nothing to do with engine operation... just your airbag system. So if you have engine performance issues, and NO codes... I would be checking mechanical timing and see if you are off a tooth.

 

Ight Im back. So here are the things ive checked to figure out my problem (Maybe). 1. Checked Timing(Good) 2. Replaced VTEC Solenoid Switch 3. Replaced VTEC Solenoid Gaskets (both) 4. Did the Click test To See if Solenoid is bad. (Good) 5. And Checked Codes (Good) other than the SRS codes. bout all i checked.

i bought a cheapie VTEC switch on ebay and it blew 2 days later oil went every where so please buy a brand new 1 at the store mine works fine.

Ive redlined it to 8-8500 while coasting in Neutral bounced right off the limiter didnt hesitate at all. True test is to actually Drive it and rev out high So ill come back and let u know what happens if it bogs/hesitates still. IT did stop the hesitation when i stab the gas pedal at idle. true test for that ill just stab it few times here and there see what happens.

like i said if my baby still drives perfect after the tests ill lyk guys know if its still doing that weird bogging/hesitating soon. <3

 

PROBLEM FIXED sumthing with my ECU was bugging out. Took it to Rich tuned and he fixed it.