Hey!

I own a 1999 Accord LX sedan with 167k miles, probably the best condition I've ever seen of 24yo car..
Does anyone perhaps know of the best way to keep up/know when I should perform routine maintenance on my car? I have seen the article on this online forum regarding maintenance for 1990-2002 Accords, however, I was wondering if there are any comprehensive lists of things that need done other than "routine maintenance," before the point of failure (e.g. fuel pump, distributor, transmission *likely dependent on driving conditions and 'style'*, catalytic converter, wipers...you get the idea).

*also an issue I'm experiencing, ignition is "skipping a beat" every once and a while, especially at idle. I figure it could be the distributor, however I am unsure because many things cause misfires (distributor, distributor wires, spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel injectors, etc.). Is anyone aware of this issue or know what is causing it? Engine is F23A1*

Bottom line is, the only real "routine" maintenance lists available online are based upon the factory suggestions, not real experience or opinion. That's what I'm looking for.
Thanks in advance! B)

 

I own a 1997 Accord LX 4-cyl since new, has 255K miles. Below are the major fixes it has been through in the order listed just to give you an idea of what to expect/look out for
Exhaust B-pipe replaced(OEM)
Muffler replaced(OEM)
Radiator replaced(OEM)
Timing belt & Water pump replaced(Dealer)
Right CV axle boot serviced(dealer)
Oil pan gasket replaced(Dealer)
Lower Ball joints replaced(Dealer
Driver side lower arm/suspension worked on after a curb crash
Front rotors and rear drums replaced
Rear shocks replaced(KYB)
Spark Pugs & wires replaced due to mis-fire(Dealer)
Timing belt & water pump replaced(Dealer)
A lot of work on the rear end after a crash including full body paint(used quite a bit cost saving strategies)
Distributor O-rings replaced due to oil leak(DIY)
Exhaust B-pipe replaced(Walker)
Brake lines replaced due to rust/leak(indy shop)
Rear upper control arms replaced due to loose joints
Oil seals replaced due to spark plug well oil leak(DIY)
Oil pressure switch replaced due to leak(Dealer)
Power steering pump O-rings replaced due to leak
Front struts replaced to improve ride quality(Duralast, DIY)
Muffler due for replacement this weekend(Walker, DIY)
Rear wheel hubs will be replaced soon due to brake drum grinding noise
Multiple engine oil, transmission, Power Steering, brake fluid replacements(mostly DIY)

Other pending work,
Driver side CV axle leaking, not planning on replacing it yet
Minor oil leak on driver side, I suspect from one of the seals behind timing belt cover
Rear trailing arm bushings cracked, hear squeaks from the rear end while going over bumps
Radio powers on, but works randomly

 

Excellent list above,

What I will say is that the only things that can KILL your car would be some sort of major engine failure like timing belt/tensioner, or oil starvation or a massive overheat.

The other thing that could be game over would be a ball joint failure in the suspension. Everything else can be fixed with no major damage etc. So yes inspect those and do them if you are unsure of the timeline they have last been changed

Regarding regular maint,
Oil change every 6 months (or 5000 miles), any oil you are comfortable with
Transmission fluid, genuine honda fluid only, can even consider adding a transmission cooler to make it even more reliable if you do a lot of traffic or hills etc
Power steering fluid, genuine honda only
Brake fluid - any brand you like every 3 yrs or so
Coolant, if price is close, genuine honda, if not, anything that ISNT dexcool

Everything else is basically straightforward

 

I apologize for the late response,

I was thinking about this, my car is an automatic, so maybe a good option (I go from NC to OH a lot for family); how would I go about doing this?

 

I saw this on your list; my drivers side front upper control arm has developed a creak/clunk, is this the upper control arm mounting joints connected to the chassis? Or something else entirely? Only happens when suspension for that wheel is moved up/down.

 

I have not replaced front upper control arms yet, ball joint boot is cracked and al the grease is out. My car creaks when hard braking and coming to a stop, not sure if it has anything to do with front upper control arms.

 

If a ball joint boot is cracked odds are the ball joint itself is already dead and you are on borrowed time before your wheel decides to lay down flat under your car.

I would prioritise that (and likely the other) ball joints above all else

 

That is my concern and will take care of it in the next couple weeks now that exhaust(B-pipe & Muffler) issue has been resolved($500 total ). BTW, I really love the way Accord drives now(until something else comes loose)

 

It'll feel even better after the ball joints!

Rockauto has em cheap

 

So far I'm guessing that's my current issue. It seems like its the upper control arm since when I press down on the fender, I can hear and feel it creak; though I am no expert.

Great lists btw!

 

I just got 17in rims on my car with 225/45R17 (I think) tires. Driving feels way tighter, though the car leans too much when turning for my liking. What do most do to reduce the rolling of the car?

 

Make sure your sway bar endlinks and sway bar bushings are in good shape.

If the bushings need replacement, replace them with black polyurethane bushings for a nice cheap handling improvement.

 

Try spraying silicone lubricant to each of the joints on the side that squeaks. Apply to one joint at a time and test by pressing down on the fender to see if the noise goes away.