So I have a 2000 civic hatch DX, D16y7 with a y8 manifold. Everything else is pretty much stock. I have a P06 ecu I socketed and ordered a base map chip from HAMods. The first one he sent we realized was for 240cc injectors so he sent another for my 190cc. Same issues both times. The car will start the idle somewhat surges back and forth and when I tap the gas the car just bogs out. Runs very rough. Obviously the stock IACV I have is 3 wire not 2 so even when it is unplugged I’m still having theses issues and also a solid cel and it does not blink a code when I jump the blue connector. Any suggestions or help? The car runs flawless on stock ecu but I can’t get the obd1 conversion to run smoothly. I do have pinouts and plan to go over the harness just incase. And I also checked all the solder joints they all look fine. I can post a video of it running if that helps?

 

You MUST use a 2-wire IACV. Remember that the IACV assists in air flow from idle to about 2500 RPM... since yours doesn't work, the engine will bog/stall when transitioning through this engine speed. A solid CEL with no codes stored is likely a "phantom" code... meaning that the code stored doesn't jive with those associated with the P06 ECU. Examples would be VTEC solenoid or pressure switch, or a Knock Sensor. This may be in the programming of the chip... but it may clear itself after you get the IACV issue solved.

 

So he said he disabled the IACV sensor on the tune but I agree it still seems as that is the issue. Right now my 3 wire IACV is mounted on the bottom of the y7 throttle body and there is a block off plate on the back side of my Y8 intake manifold. Are you thinking that if I hook up a 2 wire y8 IACV it will fix the issue? If so where would I mount it, I assume on the back of the intake where my plate currently is? or would moving pins on my obd2b to obd1 harness be a better option? I have seen post about moving pins to get it to work right and disregarding one of the wires on the 3 wire IACV but I’m just not sure what my next step should be.

 

You need a manual T/B (without the IACV bolted to the bottom), a two wire IACV that you can bolt to the back of your Y8 intake manifold, and then you WILL have to move the blue/black wire in your ECU plugs and disconnect the orange/black wire.

If the tuner "disabled" the the IACV in the tune, this makes NO DIFFERENCE with your current configuration... the ECU isn't wired correctly and the 3-wire IACV works differently than the 2-wire IACV.

 

Awesome thank you! I will get the 2 wire IACV installed and the wiring changed over. Also when I install the 2 wire IACV onto the back of my y8 manifold what do I do with the one on the bottom of my throttle body? Do I make a block off plate for the TB? Or just move the lines to the new IACV and put a vaccum cap on the old IACV ports? Or would a new different valve body just be better?

 

The lines are for coolant. You could try and use the stock auto throttle body and create some form of "block off" plate for the bottom of it, however, it may still cause some idle issues... so I would discourage this plan.