The two relays pointed at by the green arrows; I cannot find the purpose of them. What do they control?
I put a DMM on it and found that both relays have 12V but only when the ignition switch is in the ACC position.
I've been trying to find the starter motor's relay relay, if that makes any sense. The relay located somewhere in the cabin that controls the starter motor relay that's under the hood.
The issue is that my car will not start at all. No cranking no clicking noise, nothing and this happen all of the sudden one morning when I wanted to go to work.
Having said that, the dash lights do come on when the key is in the ACC position.

 

Those green arrow empty slots are for the blower motor relay and the rear window defogger relay.





Starter relay is show in attached images.

 

Thanks tech8, I was able to find it with your help!!

Working on cars can be such hell to get to things...I couldn't adequately get my hands to the starter motor's relay relay connector to probe it, much less remove the thing to test it. So, I ended up making an access hole and that did the trick. The relay was subsequently removed and bench tested with no issues found. Having said that, probing the connector revealed that no voltage was getting to the coil. Thus, I suspect the clutch interlock switch (double arrow in photo below) is not allowing voltage thru with the key is in the start position.
Now I'm working on getting to the clutch interlock connector to probe it. It looks like I can remove a metal box out of that way to make probing accessible.

An interesting sidenote is that one of the contact sides of the starter motor's relay relay connector always had 24V present regardless of ignition key position. Even though, according to schematic diagram there should only be voltage there when the ignition key is in in the start position (see green arrow in schematic diagram photo)

Last photo should be the clutch interlock which looks like an expensive component.

 

1. The Black/White wire to the starter relay should only have 12 volts when the ignition is in the START position (not hot at all times). What is the voltage measurement? If it is 24V, there is an issue

2. For the clutch interlock switch, if you can unplug the connector, you can insert a small paper clip or spare wire into the unplugged harness connector to simulate the switch being closed to test.

 

tech8, thanks for the added info.
I miss typed when I wrote 24V, it should have been 12V, and I think the reason it always had 12V on that contact is because it's not the starter motor relay.
I ended up shorting the clutch interlock switch just as you mentioned and sure enough problem solved because now I have 12V at the black arrow in the photo below when ignition key is in the start position, Yes!
I do not plan to replace this interlock switch and instead bypass it because I would have to purchase some special 17mm curved wrench to get access to unloosen the nut holding that prox sensor in place.
The schematic that I put arrows in below is quite similar to the one you provided on your last reply.
Do the "thick black wires" with the white lines in it represent wire harnesses instead of an individual wire in that circuit schematic of your last post?



That access hole I made ended up being for nothing since the relay that sits just behind it is not the starter motor relay after all because I took ohm measurements between the blue arrows and between the pink arrows with absolutely no continuity between either one of them. So, I have no idea what that relay goes to or where the actual starter motor relay is as I could not see any other relay under the dash besides those 3 other relays that are accounted for from the original post.

I know I was dealing with the clutch interlock switch because probing at the green circle in photo above, there was voltage only when key was at start position and there was continuity between the yellow arrows also in the photo above.

On another note, I noticed that my clutch pedal has two prox sensors (yellow arrows below). So it looks like one of the prox sensors tells when the clutch is fully depressed, this being that faulty clutch interlock switch, and the other prox switch tells when the clutch pedal is fully retracted. I'm not sure why my 91 Accord has that second prox sensor to tell when the clutch pedal is fully retracted, but my 91 Accord was manufactured in May of 1991 in the Unites States.



- -

 

A1: Those represent wires with insulation of one color with another color stripe. For example, Blu/Red represent a wire with blue insulation with a red stripe running through it. Those markings does not meaning anything else.

Practically all the wires are part of wire harnesses. In the Honda schematics I posted, it includes the connector numbering of where the wires run to, for example C409, C420, etc.

A2: The other is the clutch switch, which is used to disengage cruise control when the clutch pedal is depressed.

 

Thanks for that info tech8, I really appreciate it.
After bypassing the clutch interlock switch and putting everything else back together today, the car started right up! Mission accomplished!

How do you go about removing relays in tough to reach areas? I ask this because, for instance, the bank of those 3 relays clustered together, that is, the blinker, blower and defroster relays I ended up removing but it took the use of a plumber tongue to do it, which is far from ideal and this excessive force cause one of the relays, the blinker relay, to get destroyed. I literally spend an hour attempting all sorts of things with picking tools to remove those relays the "correct way". Finally, I gave up and forced them out with a plumber tongue.
How would you have gone about removing those relays? Would you have removed the steering column to get to them?

By the way, thanks again for all your help!
-Dave

 

It looks like the bottom switch has had the pedal stop pad broke off and is not allowing the black tip of the switch to bottom out. Check for some white plastic under that switch. It normally leaves pieces behind on the floor board. Auto parts stores should carry it, I believe Dorman makes it.

 

also noticed the stop for the switch is missing so I can see why the circuit is open when the pin has nowhere to stop to close the circuit!