Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

2000 Accord 3.0 Sedan Transmission

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Old Feb 28, 2023 | 03:34 PM
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JakeWoods87's Avatar
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From: Oregon, USA
Default 2000 Accord 3.0 Sedan Transmission

To start things off, I have seen a lot of threads on here and gotten a lot of feedback but nothing seems to really relate to the problems I’m experiencing.

I was doing 50 in a 50 in over drive (I had been other places that day so the engine and trans were warm prior) riding level ground and giving it just enough gas to stay at speed. Out of nowhere revs climb to 5k before I realize I’ve lost power, when I let off the gas and revs came down I applied gas again and it was good for a bit. Decided to take it back home and on the way did the same thing while doing 45. After I had let off and went to give minor power again it kept revving out and not engaging something in the trans, but it was soft, I could be barely any throttle and it would stay at speed but anything more would instantly loose power and rev out again. It would not engage again so I put it in neutral and back in drive and it revved up without my input and had and audible clunk but would not go into gear. Once I had finally come to a stop after three or four times of trying to get it into gear, I kept the car on and tried multiple times going from park, reverse, and drive with no luck getting it to go into drive. I finally was stumped as to what to do sitting on the side of the road with the car now turned off, I decided to try giving it a start and put it back into drive to see if any reset happened, it went into drive and off I went, now here is where my symptoms are somewhat similar to what I’ve seen around, I got up to fourth coming back on that same 50mph road, as soon as it hit fourth gear it almost let go, revved out and had no power. Got it home finally after a few turns loosing speed, not every time I would turn the car off and back on would it do a reset and put it back into gear, almost as if it needed about a minute sitting off to complete the reset. Once home I talked with my father(previous mechanic not for Honda)and he gave me advise to flush the tranny and replace the fluid. Did that and still have the same problems. After the flush what seems like the torque converter is whining, when put into reverse the sound decreases and the same when put into drive. I haven’t changed solenoids, I have a vibrating cv axle on the passenger. I guess my question is 1. What would anyone else say I check 2. Is my vibrating axle contributing in anyway. I’ve have the car for about 3 and a half months now. (I had a 2002 2.3l but it had other tranny problems where it would still shift but when shift change occurred it’s like it didnt even use the converter and just slammed it into gear after throwing it out of gear).

Edit: Only happens when warm that it doesn’t go into gear. I could go turn it on right now put it in gear instantly and get somewhere with it but where? That’s the question I’m worried to see if the problem is still occurring while driving since the flush, I’ve gotten it warm and put it into gear and park many time twice since the flush and every time I go to get it warm it starts whining and fails to shift completely.

If anymore info is needed please let me know.
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Old Mar 1, 2023 | 11:40 AM
  #2  
Micro1989lxi's Avatar
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Default Re: 2000 Accord 3.0 Sedan Transmission

I am old school and my newest vehicle is a 1993, besides the 98 Accord I have not gotten around to doing a head gasket in.

Meaning, I am really not familiar with how the electronics work in transmissions.

If this were an older transmission, before electronics I would have also said to change the fluid to get you by for a few months, but it is certainly not a fix.
Some times this can make a transmission worse due to the high amount of detergent in new transmission fluid.

It sounds to me like the transmission clutch disks or bands (if it has any) are worn or deteriorated. It sounds like you need to rebuild or replace the transmission.
This was a constant issue with the 94-97 Accords, but seemed to be remedied by 98. (or was it 94-96?)

Often when a transmission is internally worn, overdrive or the highest gear is the first to go.
If it were a matter of being run low on fluid for a long time, the highest gear would go out, but it would drive just fine in all of the rest of the gears.

On old transmissions, you could pull the transmission pan and tighten the clutch bands to bring the transmission back to life (some bands had external adjustments). I don't know if there is an adjustment or if it would do any good as the car won't even go into first gear unless it is cold.
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