2014 Honda Accord intermittent no start
Hello all. I have what I think is an odd one here, that I am hoping someone has seen before. On my 2014 4 cylinder Accord, once maybe twice a week, when I unlock my car, and try to start it, nothing happens. No click, no lights, nothing. The first time it happened, I thought it was a dead battery, but after some trial and error, I have found a sort of pattern. When the condition occurs, if I exit the vehicle, close the door, and lock the car, I can then unlock it and the car starts fine. I have tested this numerous times and it is consistent. Anybody have any thoughts on what might be causing this? I appreciate the help. Thanks.
Hello all. I have what I think is an odd one here, that I am hoping someone has seen before. On my 2014 4 cylinder Accord, once maybe twice a week, when I unlock my car, and try to start it, nothing happens. No click, no lights, nothing. The first time it happened, I thought it was a dead battery, but after some trial and error, I have found a sort of pattern. When the condition occurs, if I exit the vehicle, close the door, and lock the car, I can then unlock it and the car starts fine. I have tested this numerous times and it is consistent. Anybody have any thoughts on what might be causing this? I appreciate the help. Thanks.
Any guru wisdom out there? Thanks!
I've been having similar, "intermittent" power issues. I've never been much of a "car guy", but I am extraordinarily intelligent (or so says the psychologist who administered my IQ test). Now, I've been doing some research and, from what I can tell, for the both of us, is that we're losing connection somewhere. Now this is where it gets even more frustrating. We're going to need to check connections and wiring to and from any system you've noticed having power issues. I would start with the battery and alternator, then work your way out from there. Use contact cleaner, a wire brush or sand paper where applicable, to clean any connections. Inspect wiring to ensure there is no damage. I too thought my battery was dead, but now I'm fairly certain I wasted $200 on a brand new one. I hope this helps you... I'm headed out into the cold now to start working on mine. Best of luck to you, there doesn't seem to be too many people on here answering questions.
I have had similar problem with my 2015 accord sedan. it was intermittent no start with NO POWER at all. I had to use the key at one time to open the door cause of No Power at all. I started to trouble shoot by taking it to my mechanic to check my alternator and battery. The test were negative meaning that the alternator was charging and the battery was fully charged. So then I started to check the connections of the battery cables and the negative ground cables on the frame. I cleaned the battery cable on the battery including removing the tarnish then removed all visible battery to frame ground wires cleaned the wires and area connection and screw attachments. After some work I was not having the problem as frequently as prior to this, I was getting power to the lights, however it continued not to start with the push on button . I noticed that maybe since i was not always getting start power it just might be the negative battery terminal end sensor. It was easy to replace and minimal cost which seemed to solve the power and start problem. It has been 2 months since the replacement and No Issues to this date, but if i do have a continued problem I bought a push start switch just in case, cause there are no other options as to this problem.
Similarly, my 2015 EXL V6 coupe refused to start about a month ago. As battery was just past expiration, I replaced it and things were great for a month or so. Yesterday, when start button was pushed, just a single 'click' (as before) and no start although accessories were on. Tried to jump it off but with a new battery I didn't think this was the cause. I tried starting maybe 10 times yesterday with no luck. I set up an appointment yesterday and scheduled a tow to the shop. Today, the car started right up. Called the shop and it was confirmed that of course, they could not troubleshoot if the problem was gone, so cancelled shop and tow.
One strange thing I did notice was when the car is working properly, when I depress the brake prior to starting, it feels normal and allows maybe an inch of travel, then starts. When this lousy issue is present, the brake feels like it's locked up and has NO travel.
Any thoughts on this? An undependable car is like not having a car, very un-Honda like.
One strange thing I did notice was when the car is working properly, when I depress the brake prior to starting, it feels normal and allows maybe an inch of travel, then starts. When this lousy issue is present, the brake feels like it's locked up and has NO travel.
Any thoughts on this? An undependable car is like not having a car, very un-Honda like.
Last edited by Dimmich; Aug 10, 2023 at 07:28 AM. Reason: Correct typos and embellish a little
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As an update to my previous two posts, I believe I have narrowed the issue down to either the brake booster (vacuum) check valve or the associated vacuum pressure sensor. Having difficulty finding replacements on-line (weird) but do either of these seem like good replacement candidates?
Also, not sure if this intermittent problem would also prevent the car from starting.
Also, not sure if this intermittent problem would also prevent the car from starting.
Problem solved, Honda is (hopefully) cured.
On 9/21, my Honda officially died. It had been not starting (clicking) and the immediately started. This lasted until 9/21. The car was dead all day, so I had it towed to the repair shop and asked them to check OBD for any thrown codes. They did and it told them the issue was the starter. A forum responder suggested this earlier but as it was sporadically starting and running, I discounted the suggestion. Being an old guy, in my mind a starter was either good… or bad. Evidently, newer cars have starters that can be intermittent which was news to me. Regardless, the shop replaced the starter and the car has run flawlessly since. Fingers crossed.
On 9/21, my Honda officially died. It had been not starting (clicking) and the immediately started. This lasted until 9/21. The car was dead all day, so I had it towed to the repair shop and asked them to check OBD for any thrown codes. They did and it told them the issue was the starter. A forum responder suggested this earlier but as it was sporadically starting and running, I discounted the suggestion. Being an old guy, in my mind a starter was either good… or bad. Evidently, newer cars have starters that can be intermittent which was news to me. Regardless, the shop replaced the starter and the car has run flawlessly since. Fingers crossed.
My son just bought 15 Accord LX 2.4L and has had three occurrences of no crank. Today is Saturday, so no reliable mechanics open I took to fire stone to have them check battery, starter and alternator in car and all tests passed. Not sure if I trust it. I’m wondering if the solenoids in the starter can go bad intermittently?
does anyone know how to reliably troubleshoot cut starter relay?
does anyone know how to reliably troubleshoot cut starter relay?
As I said, when car is running, all systems will check OK. During 'no start' time OBD showed a starter fault. Replaced the starter and no issues since. I can't address your other questions, sorry. But I would guess that taking power on and off the relay, it should change state.
Update on my issue. I had Firestone check Batt/Alt/Starter on vehicle. Came back good. I disconnected signal wire going to starter to confirm reliable start signal to starter motor onboard solenoid. Got 12V reliably every time I turned key without fail. Pulled starter and after several attempts replicated no crank on the bench. Replaced with reman starter and no problems so far. I'll attempt to post video of bench test of starter. Not sure if forum allows vids.
More than likely starter needs replaced. I first replaced ignition switch since it was inexpensive but it made no difference. I then was certain the starter was the problem. replaced it and problem is no more.
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