My kids 2002 Accord has some rough shifts. When driving through town it seems to rev up while shifting through low gears. No problems when cruising on the highway. I did change the fluid about 25K ago. Car only has 95K on it. Any advise?

 

Start by changing the fluid again, genuine Honda,

If that doesn't help you may want to look into the condition of the transmission itself

 

You—and your kid—should prepare for some disappointment.

The 6th gen Accord is among the most reliable vehicles built, particularly among Accords. It's confounding then that the automatic transmission is the weakest component in these cars. Turns out Honda engineers designed the tranny such that the thing produces so much heat under normal operation that the transmission oil (ATF) breaks down, which exacerbates the existing problem (classic negative feedback loop) and creates other bad stuff amongst the whirly bits inside the transmission case. The problem is known. There is a fix. But it's neither easy nor cheap; the repair is well outside the wrenching skills of the casual shadetree mechanic. Forewarned and forearmed owners of '98 thru 2002 Accords heed anecdotal advice to install an external AFT filter and swap it, along with three quarts of DW1, during every other oil change to forestall the inevitable. Bottom line, it is likely your Accord's transmission is beginning to exhibit symptoms of imminent failure.

The intermittent "rev up" you experienced is called shift flare (aka, flaring, flared shifts)—and now you have another relevant term to research. Shift flare (between 2nd and 3rd) is primarily due to the aforementioned yuckiness inside the transmission, and a harbinger of a gut punch to your kid's car maintenance reserve fund. So no happy news there. Dire eventualities aside, it is possible (though unlikely given the very well documented failure history of this transmission) that a solenoid screen is dirty, or a shift control solenoid proper has gone wonky. The Honda Service Manual recommends testing the shift control solenoid valve C and the 3rd clutch pressure switch as potential sources of the problem—"testing" means the relatively easy job removing the (externally mounted) solenoids and checking their resistance (which is never the problem), and blasting the screens with a shot of Brakleen. It's also prudent to check for any stored DTCs with your handy-dandy code reader.

Sooo....you might investigate those avenues. And while the expense and effort of swapping out a couple quarts of ATF might make you feel proactive and hopeful, you're likely just buying a few more miles before the inevitable. (Frankly, for this purpose you're better served just dumping a bottle of Lucas LUC10009 into your transmission ) While the ATF drips from the bottle, Google "Honda BX7A Failure"... Parse the dozens of articles and hundreds of desperate posts within various Honda-centric forums left by unfortunate owners who preceded you down this inexorable path, and take a modicum of comfort in the sober knowledge that you're among familiar company.

Such is the expense owning the paragon of automotive reliability...

 

So the future of this Honda sounds pretty bleak. What are the options as far getting the transmission rebuilt/ replaced. My local dealer said that they can swap it for $3100 with another used transmission (whatever that meant)

 

At least you have now a number, a datum you can pivot around as you consider options.

The cost of this repair begins with whatever a shop charges to do the job. For simplicity, let's say your minimum labor expense will be $1000. Great. Now go shop for a shop to do the swap. I recommend you keep the two entities—the shop and the transmission vendor—separate. This eliminates any opportunity for shenanigans. Find a reputable independent Honda-centric shop to do the work first; then purchase a transmission from a vendor. You'll have to coordinate the delivery of the replacement transmission—called a "drop ship"—with the shop and the transmission vendor, but they're both familiar with the process.

You need a replacement B7XA transmission. Your purchase options are, in order of expense:

• Used transmission is removed from one car and bolted into another in whatever condition it is in. While the least expensive transmission replacement option, your purchase includes absolutely zero condition history, zero warranty, and zero semblance of reliability. Once installed, the countdown begins till it inevitably breaks. One saving grace: used transmissions are exquisitely difficult to locate since folks tend to quickly buy them up, thus dealing with their inherent unpleasantness is sorta moot.
• Rebuilt transmission is a repaired formerly-broken used transmission. Transmission rebuilds vary in myriad ways—perhaps a tranny had six things broken while another need a minor repair. You have absolutely no idea what was repaired a/o the quality of parts replaced a/o quality the work performed. The rebuilt transmission are repaired to "operational" condition. Request from the transmission rebuild vendor an exact description of the repair, a list of parts replaced and their brand. It is highly unlikely a rebuilt B7XA transmission has been upgraded to fix its gremlins, so expect it to eventually fail in a manner similar to the old tranny it replaced. Costs vary, so shop amongst reputable sources. Expect at least a minimum three month warranty.
• Remanufactured transmission is a complete overhaul akin to purchasing new. The thing is broken down to its constituent bits, typical wear components are replaced with new Genuine Honda parts a/o industry-respected components. Old existing parts are cleaned, inspected and reinstalled only where appropriate. Perhaps most significant: each of the flaws inherent to the B7XA transmission are individually remedied using purpose-designed kits with re-engineered parts requiring deliberate installation procedures. Costs vary, so shop around reputable sources. Request and scrutinize each vendors' list of replaced transmission components and verify in writing that the remanufactured transmission is an upgraded B7XA. Expect a minimum one year warranty; two or three year warranties are not unusual.

Additional expenses to anticipate and budget for:

• Core Charge. Expect this many hundreds of dollars line item on your invoice. The transmission rebuilders and remanufactures will refund you the amount listed as the "core" in exchange for your yucky old transmission.
• Torque converter. You'll need a new one regardless of which type of transmission you choose. Discuss this widget with the vendor. Insist on an upgrade TC that remedies the flow-restriction problem that vexed the original. Do not forget to do this.
• Rear main bearing seal. With the transmission removed, it's the perfect opportunity to replace this two-decade-old oil seal (Honda p/n: 91214-PLE-003); so do it!
• Transmission mounts. With the transmission removed, it's the ideal opportunity to replace the aged hunks o' rubber. (Consider replacing the engine mounts also.)
• Drive axles. If they're original to the car, it is absolutely prudent to replace both axles given that they are the direct conduit between your new transmission and the front tires. (Honda p/n: 44305-S4K-A52 & 44306-S4K-A62)
• External Transmission Fluid Filter. Honda engineers stuck the ATF filter inside the transmission. Idiots. Have the tech install an external ATF filter into one of the transmission coolant lines.

Possible expenses to anticipate and budget for...
It's probable you'll be working with a non-local vendor over the internet. This implies shipping costs. There's no such thing as "free shipping" so expect a proportionally more expensive transmission from vendors who claim shipping is gratis (it ain't). There's also the matter of "drop shipping" the transmission to the address of the shop that'll be doing the deed. Coordinate the day and drop location details with the shop and relay that information to the tranny vendor. Hold your breath and hope it gets delivered as planned.

A missing transmission leaves a gaping hole in the engine bay that provides convenient opportunity to inspect other components that might still be original to the car. Ask the tech to take a gander at the suspension components and bushings, power steering rack and lines, oil pan seal, VTEC solenoid and rear cam seals, exhaust manifold, transmission coolant lines, and condition of the radiator. I'm pretty sure other important items are missing from this list. If the tech recommends replacing these a/o other aged doodads, my advice: follow his advice.

Bottom line:
There's no way around it: This will be an expensive repair. Consider if you want to dump thousands of dollars into a 20yo car. Take comfort in the fact that replacing a transmission is still exponentially less expensive than buying new or nearly-new car.

Lastly...
Never, never ever take your car to a dealership for repairs. Find and patronize a reputable independent Honda-centric shop instead.

 

Lothian is offering excellent advice above.

What I wil say is start with the easiest thing which is to drain and replace the fluid yourself (twice using genuine Honda) and make sure the level is ok. Let's see where this leaves you.

Then you can look into transmission options etc etc

 

Very helpful... thank you guys

 

I'd swap in another used one, but your taking a risk, the automatics as stated are known to be weak. Also $3,100 is a ton of coin for a car thats probably worth only $1,500 or so more than that. If you did decide to swap in another used one I would definitely consider doing it yourself or finding a cheaper way of getting it in there. You just know the odds of you getting the replacement used one in there and finding the same problem are definitely fairly slim but it would most likely fail again its just a matter of when/how long, it basically comes down to whether or not you want to spend over $3k for a used transmission and install and have it last another 20k-50k miles which is most likely what would happen. Ya know, is THAT worth it? Nowadays it'd probably work out.

Going rebuilt would be GOOD to Great, at least you;d have peice of mind it wouldn't fail immediately or after only 20k-50k miles, it would likely last the rest of the life of the car but you;d be spending over $5k on a car that is worth around that much, is THAT worth it? To some it is, and if thats good enough, get on it!
Also if going rebuilt, check reviews of the shop, ask alot of questions, get good quality parts and find out if any of the parts have been updated or revised to remedy the failure prone original Honda designs.


Another Used:

• Get cheap as possible
• Determine best warranty
• Find cheapest way of getting installed
• Expect slight chance of immediate failure (not to scare you, not likely but possible)
• Don't expect guaranteed "rest-of-life-of-car" reliable performance
• Get most likely 20k-50k miles before problems arise
• Know you spent less coin to get the job done and have taken a risk

Rebuilt:

• Buy complete rebuilt transmission (Cheap as possible)
• -OR-
• Buy quality and revised parts and have reputable shop rebuild (Cheap as possible)
• Determine best warranty
• Expect Near or Like New Performance for at least 60k miles or rest -of-life-of-car
• Know you dropped the big coin and got it done
• Have piece of mind that when/if you sell the car you can advertise it has a completely rebuilt transmission and that you could sell it for (not all of what you have in the car) but substantially more then a car with a broken trans or just another used one installed would be (Likely an added $1,500-$2,000)

 

If you can't find a used transmission from a crashed car for less than $1k installed get rid of the car and never buy an automatic Honda from 98-06 again especially if it's a v6.

 

I don't know that the i4s were any better. Mine is leaking badly and slips if I don't keep it topped off.

I have read about many other 2.3Ls that go bad prematurely.

I see an [allegedly] A-rated transmission in Yuma, Arizona for $400, but I cannot imagine finding a shop that would do the labor for less than $1,000, let alone $600.

I called around for quotes to have the rear-main seal replaced and one shop said $850, but my sister said the reviews looked shady.

For all that I know that is my sister just not wanting to do what I, the previous owner of that vehicle, and the one who knows it best, feels is best.

Well, what I felt was best was selling it to a stranger for $1,500, but let's not get into my family drama.

Crazy Jay in Show Low, AZ charges $60 an hour, but somehow when I brought him my 2002 Civic the number he gave me for a head gasket replacement shocked me so much I don't have any idea what it was.

Over $1,000, I am pretty sure.

Logically, being a man of action, I decided:


I love my 99, but I just don't think it is worth fixing the transmission. However, my sister paid $250 for this car (and more to have a mechanic verify the rear main seal is leaking; how do you verify the rear main seal is leaking without dropping the transmission?!), so in a perfect example of the Sunken Cost Fallacy, she will probably end up spending thousands because the dealership said to (on a 24-year-old car with 230,000 miles).

She says she is the smart one in the family.

 

Turns out there's another option!
I chatted with a mechanic (Keith Barnes, owner of 'Outlaw Motors", in Cary, NC) who claims to have swapped the Odyssey's BAXA transmission—which does NOT suffer from the inherent overheating design flaw the vexed the BX7A—into an Acura (a.k.a., the trim level above the Accord EX). It never occurred to me that the BAXA and B7XA are bolt-compatible. You never stop learning.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Xist:

I share that same struggle with your sister and her dilemma, and I totally get the seemingly rational dance with the Sunken Cost Fallacy. A thousands-dollar repair bill (financed with zero interest payments if at all possible) is exponentially less fiscally burdensome than a five year loan commitment on a depreciating asset. And this is where rationalization begins to muddy the waters. Tempering that attitude is the reality that the expense of a more modern car includes a demonstratively safer automobile that's much more feature amenable (thinking self-actuating parking break, push button ignition, six speed transmission, and blind spot warning here, just to list a paltry few). That said, I argue that a well maintained 24yo car is no leas reliable than the newer model. (I admit to the possibility of some confirmation bias here.)

Curious to learn how things are going on your end.