ok, I just replaced the pcv oil chamber oring and pcv tubing. I had to take the intake manifold off to do this. I disconnected the battery as well (this is over a 2 week time period) I also sprayed some carb cleaner into the fuel line since it was off (poor mans fuel injector power cleaner) put everything back together and start it up. Cold idle is fine but for some reason the warm idle was a tick over 1000 rpm. I ended up having to play with the idle adjustment screw in the throttle body to bring the idle below 1000rpm. No vacuum leaks (verified with spraying carb cleaner around the intake) everything connected, air burped out of the cooling system.
My question is why did the idle change, what made the difference? does the computer need time to relearn?
Thanks
Steve
1995 civic lx 5sp 426k miles

 

Nope, you did something wrong during the I/M install and instead of finding the true issue, you tried to cover up the problem with adjusting the idle screw. I don't know why people use this method as a "first fix"... especially since the idle screw is PAINTED OVER after the factory pre-sets it.

 

THats what Im thinking also, but for the life of me I cannot find where something is amiss. Also youre thinking the screw at the throttle cable, I didnt touch that one. I adjusted the air intake at the upper left corner of the throttle body. And no it was my LAST fix after checking, rechecking and re checking everything over.

 

I'd check again to make sure that you don't have a vacuum leak.

 

The idle set screw is also painted over solidly at factory. If your's didn't have 2-3mm thick gray paint over it, then it was already cleaned out and messed with once before.

The screw you are talking about is the butterfly stop screw. That one is even more taboo to mess with.

 

22inches of mercury at idle so I dont think it is a vacuum leak.
All I know is that this car now runs better than it ever did