I can't make up my mind. I am replacing the crank and rods in my engine and I'm thinking of something new...either way I am keeping my 11.5:1 CR pistons, it's just the rod/stroke that I want I can't decide. I have 3 options basically, cause they are the most cost effective:

1) H23 crank and rods

Pros: Crazy Torque! More displacement (2258cc)
Cons: Big stroke + High Revs = less reliability, probably need aftermarket rods $$$. 1.49 RS/R already fucked up once!

2) H22 crank and Rods

Pros: Better rev capabilities at 100cc of displacement (2157cc) 1.58 RS/R
Cons: Booooorrring...don't want to do it if I have to...

3) F20B crank and rods

Pros: Lots of high end power, high revs. Great 1.65 RS/R. I can get these for a great price right now.
Cons: Will lose some torque, displacement to only 2091cc (2.1L), but only 67cc less than the H22a...

Okay so I'm leaning to F20B...the H23 VTEC had almost too much power, the car was so hard to launch! Anyways am I insane for destroking my motor to 2.1L in hopes of making better high end power? How much torque will I keep? I had 160 at the wheels with the H23 VTEC....


[Modified by satan_srv, 10:18 AM 11/18/2002]


[Modified by satan_srv, 10:20 AM 11/18/2002]

 

why not just do an H23 VTEC again with a lightened and balnced crank, and some better rods?

 

Whats your purpose for the car?

 

My crank was lightened and balanced in the first place....as far as I know the only rods I can get for the H23 are the crowers, and only the regular ones at $170US a piece..the canadian dollar sucks!

 

i *think" eagle makes some.... i can find out for ya

 

Daily Driving, Drag, Track whatever I can get into next season...I have a Kaaz LSD and some new suspension stuff I have to try out

 

I was told in another post that they don't....

 

Well, if its for track days, then F20B would own.

 

I know Saanz will make you some rods cause i have some in my engine.Also destroking your engine is not a crazy thing,the accord touring cars are using destroked h22's (to 2.0) and they are getting 300hp.Granted i would need to sell my house to afford one of these motors but point being you can still make power.

 

That's what I was thinking...and with all my other engine mods the F20B would be breathing really well, then I could tune the cams/fuel for some great output...hmm I may just have to do that...

 

The Accord SiR-T? That's the F20B that I'm talking about....or is this a different engine? The F20B is a destroked H22...

 

stroker.

 

Haha I knew it. Hey 2point6...how do you deal with all the torque? How much tq are you putting down? I found just accelerating from 1st gear a challenge!

 

First and second are useless without drag radials and even then it still spins.The torque is awesome though.Mine only dyno'd at 178 hp but almost 170 ft/lb of torque.This is with a h23 so with your head you should be able to put down some better hp numbers.When i rebuild mine(again)ive been thinking about destroking also.My problem now is traction also.I tried to make a good pass by heating up my bfg drags and tried to launch at around 5000 but my tranny blew up.Now i have a h22 tranny with low miles but havent been to the track with it yet.

 

Ya I made 203whp....VTEC head =

See it's the traction that was pissing me off, I don't think a light FWD car can take that kinda torque on the street anyway.

Like when you're pushing 350-500 hp in a turbo setup you don't care so much because you're gonna haul *** once you're spooled up. But when you're N/A I think the launch is a big part of drag times...and considering how much daily driving I do, the wheel spin was getting to me...

 

hmmm...this will be interesting to watch....let me know how it comes out satan Srv...the only traction probs i have is my 1st to 2nd shift...other than that, no probs really at all...and my motor is making plenty of power...im not sure what i would dyno at....i need to get it tuned, also i wanna get the new skunk2 manifold when it comes out, along with a TB upgrade...also maybe putting a slightly thinner headgasket on it to bump the compression up a bit..who knows..right now im in search of my 13 sec pass...gonna go again wed...id like to see the f20b crank in your lude, see how it performs...peace bro

 

You know what I've always wondered about your car...what is your tranny code again? Are you the P2T4 guy? You know I bet your stellar times are because of some extremely short gearing and some good driving...I think the ratios are your friend...likely an Euro-R accord tranny....considering I already figured out the T2T4 is the Accord SiR-T tranny....you think?

 

I think its an M2T4 or T5.

 

stroke it!!!

 

H22A

K.I.S.S.

ps, 160 tq isn't *that* much power...

 

shadddap!!!!

 

180ftlbs. This is a really flat tq curve also from about 4500rpm to 6800. The torque is tricky in first gear. Basically, it is useless if I try to jam on it on the street unless I am careful with the throttle. With slicks, that is a different story.

 

Yeah that's ridiculous...I think that's the nail in the coffin for me...as much as I want torque, I don't want to give it up at the expense of driveablility...different goals I suppose

 

If you set your suspension up there is a lot less "unloading" that occurs keeping the wheels hooked up. I am working on some tubular cross members that with different geometry will keep the nose down. I also feel this can be done with suspension limiting straps as a cheaper alternative and still be very streetable.

Here is the dyno sheet. You might have seen this already but, it would be interesting to compare to your dyno sheet. Also, this run was done before the SMSP header, ATR manifold as well.

NOTE: THIS IS A 2.44 LTR NOT A 2.6LTR!!



[Modified by 2point6, 12:48 PM 11/18/2002]


[Modified by 2point6, 1:52 PM 11/18/2002]


[Modified by 2point6, 1:52 PM 11/18/2002]


[Modified by 2point6, 7:56 AM 11/22/2002]

 

I will get mine scanned asap...was that with the 2.6 crank or the 2.44 you have now?