I went to the auto shop to replace the exhaust pipe and muffler(try to do it my self, but dont have the jack can lift that high)

The mechanic told me the front tire axle both sides needs to replace, also give me a quote of about $500 ish cad including tax
i google the symptom about "when do i need to replace the axle" I only find my car virbarting, don't have those clicking sound when turnning.
I'm a little bit short on money and I 'm basicly dont have any background knowledge about car, If need to replace it, I want to do it by myself to save some money.
If it is possible could you please tell me the name of the product I need to buy from loco auto shop?(find a one in the canadian tire, but not sure this is the one I need)
thanks in advance!
attached are the photos


left side

right side

is this the one I am looking for?

 

Just go to your local autozone and tell them what kind of vehicle you have. They come with a lifetime warranty for the duralast brand.

Or you can get away with fixing just the boot and filling it with grease, which is a lil more difficult but it saves money. If it’s me, I’d just replace the axles.

Get a low profile 3 ton Jack, that will be plenty to raise the car.

 

I am going to give you the best advice here.. so the nut on the end of the axle sucks, probly will keep spinning ,buy a big boy impact for like 300 bucks, and return it to home depot when your done..
ive done this 2x now, i think lowes has a stricter return policy check it out
make shure you can return
mabe a low pro jack you can also return

Also dont get the corded impacts they suck

 

So when do you need to replace it
my answer if you really hate the vibrating replace it
if you like it, live with it lol

but for my car i dont even care, one of mine is like that my car is verry vibratiee from soild mounts anyway
i dont think its worth it

Also dont loose all your trans fluid

 

What's the point of buying it multiple times and returning it? Stop being a cheapass and just keep the tools you buy.

 

it sucks those big impacts are a one time tool.
like every 3 mo for me
But for him one time for shure
easyest way to get those bolts off for shure
Dont hate

Also you forget, his point is to save money by doing the job.

my buddy has a medum size impact that cant always get them off

 

Nonsense. I bought one of these for myself on 2019 Black Friday sale.




I use it almost every time I'm in my garage\, it's been great. Haven't run into a crankshaft bolt or axle nut that it won't knock loose. I haven't taken my air powered impact out of the drawer in three years. If I was a full time mechanic who made his money with his tools, I'd happily spend 3x more for something that would live at a higher duty cycle, but this is 100% appropriate for the typical person.

If breaking the axle nut loose by hand/breaker bar, do it with the wheels on the ground or stick a screwdriver in the rotor veins and jam up against the caliper to stop the axle from turning. You must use a torque wrench to re-install the new nut/axle or you will be replacing the wheel bearing in short order too.

OP, replace the axle. Once the boot is open, dirt has entered and your joint is destroyed. Rebooting is just throwing good after bad.

 

Yeah there cool ,ive actuly broke 3 breaker bars, trying to get the nut off of a 96 accord axle
and that same drill got it off for me

Same drill, its a good buy for shure Mabe its been used more, or the one you have is more powerfull
Its fliped over but its the same brand

Couldent take off the flywheel bolts/crank bolt from this b20b With pb blaster

Idk mabe it will be good for it, it dose allot

 

HD should change their return policy to where if there's clear signs the tool has been used, they should bench test the tool and if it works, not accept the return.
Have seen and heard many trashy people taking advantage of return policies like this.

I agree with replacing both left and right side axles with Autozone replacements. I wouldn't try to replace the boots alone. There are likely many videos on YouTube showing how to do this, it's not a terribly hard job. I've always just used a breaker bar with the car on the ground as Adam described.

 

"basicly dont have any background knowledge about car, If need to replace it, I want to do it by myself to save some money."

mechanic is chargeing 500 keep that in mind

Low pro 130
Impact 150 (just for the tool)
Axles probly about 110 to 130 ea, so 220 to 260 (mabe more)
Pb blaster or wd 40 /mabe some transfluid/ whatever other hand tools needed
now he has got the tools and parts for the job

Thats more then 500 right
So way out of the buget
wait what about the battery for the impact?

its not unfair
its there return policy , part of the agreement and a part of the deal.

 

You do NOT need an impact driver to do this job.

You do need:

- jack/stands
- wrench 17 (mm)
- 3/8 drive sockets 14, 17 (mm) & ratchet
- 1/2 drive sockets 19, 32 (mm) & breaker bar & torque wrench
- prybar
- hammer (preferably also a brass mallet)
- needle nose pliers
- a punch
- something to break the LBJ loose. I use a ratchet or pry bar handle and a jack (google for YouTube videos) or you can get a loaner tool.

the lower ball joint stud sometimes spins in the joint when trying to get the nut off. This sucks and is sometimes the one place you will really wish you had an impact to zip it off. Otherwise there are no air/electric tools necessary.

Your car looks pretty clean underneath for being old and Canadian. So that’s a plus. Bring PB Blaster and WD-40 anyway.

 

Besides breaking loose nuts, any tricks or tips? I.e. for snapping the inboard CV out of / into the tranny?
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hammer and big flat head screw driver

 

I inspect my boots every oil change. I can and have caught the beginning of a leaky boot.I have had only the boot replaced with no ill effects. However if it looked like it had been cracked and losing grease for a while, I do get the shaft switched. AutoZone shafts are fine, and my local garage has decent prices. I usually have had only 1 shaft at a time replaced for close to $300 American.

 

The Autozone shafts are $117. Why are these on RockAuto all less than $60? Are these not the same assembly? (Edit: maybe it's the warranty?)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...n,cv+axle,2288
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Because retail. It’s probably also more like $85 once you have it shipped. Rockauto is fine if you are 100% sure if what you are getting, but if there is any issue at all (doesn’t fit, wrong part, just shitty) you are on the hook for AT LEAST return shipping and there is no human to talk to to sort it out.

TLDR: Roackauto is very buyer beware.

 

I hate how awkward and antiquated their shopping cart system is (just weird), but I actually like the old drop-down style of the rest of the site. Makes it super easy to hunt down what you're looking for.

Parts quality is the same as what you'd get at Autozone/Oreilly/Advanced

 

Is that just for the labor? Maybe a 3-hour job?
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Here is how I break my balljoints loose every time, zero issues. I use the handle of a 1/2" drive Craftsman ratchet to wedge in there. Usually don't even have to kick the rotor, just the spring force from the suspension after letting off the jack usually pops it out.

 

It's hard to see that it's actually loose. Does it part only 1/8" or less in the video?
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yes, it's only slightly separated at the end of the video, but thats all it needs as its a taper press fit. But when you do it you will hear the loud pop and feel the resistance let go. The video doesn't do it justice for how loud the pop can be.

 

Thanks.

Should I expect to need a front end realignment after installing new half-shafts?
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Not necessary.

 

The reason I ask is that after replacing mine, the car now pulls slightly to the left, and also feels heavier turning right than turning left. It's not extreme, but noticeable. One possible cause that comes to mind is a CV joint on the left half-shaft dragging somewhat. (However, I hear no noises, and feel no vibration, associated with a deteriorating CV joint.) Another cause might be some front alignment issue. Another would be the left-front tire way low on air pressure (it's not, and both tires are nearly new.)
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Replacing an axle shouldn't change the alignment in any way. Double check you got everything back together correctly. Was the axle nut properly torqued to spec?