This is cold start..
It'll usually lower down to around high50s it warm idle sometimes a little higher, under load it sees pressures as high as 87lbs..my rev limit is set 8300rpm w/550ccinjects.chipped and socketed myself set for 93oc. it is my daily ....no leaks and I pound it..its n/a,,it idles high but I don't worry about it,very reliable...I'm just curious why I have such high oil pressure, but that could explain why it tolerates 8000rpm daily....any ideas are welcome.(p.s. I bought the car swapped but made a few external upgrades myself.injectors ecu,ECT.
I agree if you're not seeing issues anywhere else and the car is running healthy, I wouldn't worry about it. Excessively high oil pressure can absolutely become an issue, but definitely won't kill anything as fast as low pressure. In your case I think it's still in the "acceptable" range once warmed up and under load.
Well the car is completely set upp for boost it appears.moroso pann with return bungs,as well as catch can return bungs..when I bought it I had to reconnect thee headers.to I gotta add,a full magna flow exhaust...it had no 02s..and the ECU is 02 deleted for now...but I think all the ingredients I have show that this car was boosted...I haven't pulled the pan to check internals but I plan to, supposedly it has rods and Pistons if so I'm geussin my high OP is due to an ex boost b20b,what you think?
Adding a turbo would drop the oil pressure at least a little, just since that's one more component the oil would have to feed and travel through. Makes sense.
I wouldn't go over around 300WHP though unless the sleeves have been reinforced on a B20. And even with sleeve work, wouldn't go over 350->400 on that block if you want longevity (B20s have a weaker sleeve design than other B series engines).
I wouldn't go over around 300WHP though unless the sleeves have been reinforced on a B20. And even with sleeve work, wouldn't go over 350->400 on that block if you want longevity (B20s have a weaker sleeve design than other B series engines).
I think a cheap kit on eBay will make 300 pretty easy,,I've studied the sleeving matter(I'm on a major budget) and I could see block gaurds being an issue as far as daily driving...tbh I think some head studs are some of the best insurance to go with aside from everything else,and I want it to stay daily driveable as far as reliability...I plan on dropping the pann next oil change to confirm and pray I see some afty rods...the way this car runs now I'm almost positive it's got some goodies inside..lightend flywheel or lightened rod or something.its snaps 8000 almost to fast first gear....got other questions coming..
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Try to turbo on a budget if you're concerned about daily drivability, or reliability. You will 100% have issues with an eBay kit. It takes a substantial amount of money these days to do a turbo build correctly. Save up and wait for the right time. I agree block guards are to be avoided, and head studs would be a great upgrade if the engine doesn't already have ARP's in it (if it does have forged rods and pistons, it very likely could already have upgraded head studs).
NOT
NOT
Try to turbo on a budget if you're concerned about daily drivability, or reliability. You will 100% have issues with an eBay kit. It takes a substantial amount of money these days to do a turbo build correctly. Save up and wait for the right time. I agree block guards are to be avoided, and head studs would be a great upgrade if the engine doesn't already have ARP's in it (if it does have forged rods and pistons, it very likely could already have upgraded head studs).
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cromais
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jul 6, 2004 11:59 AM



