Ok I recently got my car running real good from sitting for six years and now when I drive it it jerks and motor cuts off leaving power on dash. It's like when I run it wife open everything is good but normal driving when also decelerating it jerks and cuts off and then picks back up. I'm so stumped because I have put new distributor and wire and plugs and main relay and all, it almost feels like a ground loose but it was running fine before I realized my brother in law had plug wires wrong.now that I've corrected the wiring it runs great but this little problem.its a turbo 94 Honda civic hatch with D16z6 swap.....the car responds to well and guaranteed start for it to be ignition but I just can't figure it out. Someone please help..once again if running wide open then all is good but not normal driving. It just does, also has new TPS too....need some input

 

Did you calibrate the new tps?

 

No but I bought the wrong distributor but still put on and drove around for about a few weeks and it ran fine,but that was when it was wire wrong with plug wires ,it drove great but had no power when accelerating.but when I got plug wires correct it drove fine and started the cutting off and bucking.i thought it was because I had 1.5 distributor on a 1.6 so I bought brand new correct one and it's still doing it. If it's wide open it does great but daily driving it looks like I don't know how to drive a Clutch....lol

 

Here's another system now....the car won't stay at consistent rpm when you rev it up. It goes up and down instead of staying still at a steady rpm..like a massair flow but I don't see that I have one. Would it be connected to throttle body or I side it ? Also I tried to calibrate the tps sensor and it won't reach 4.5 open ,just 3.4

 

I heard that sometimes you have to file the TPS slot to make it go further when you turn to adjust.

does the car have bad gas in the tank? is the fuel pump filter (in tank and on the firewall) clogged?

did you change the fuel pump? after they sit for years they get all corroded. I'd change it asap if you didn't already.

 

So could by chance it be idle air control even though I cleaned it out? Or MAP sensor in throttle body?

 

You have posted the same question in two different threads... and this is confusing... please ask a MOD to merge them.

With respect to your question, an IACV problem would produce a code 14. Since neither a seven or eight... or even a seventy-eight... has anything to do with an IACV, it is unlikely that this would be your problem. How about posting a short video of your CEL flashing through your codes a few times so that we can assist you in identifying your codes/issues.

 

I'm sorry I am just desperate to get some advice and I was just asking any question I could think of,not necessarily being related...but I will get video tomorrow,but I was curious as to why it will only run through any codes only when car cranked, light the CEL only comes on breifly when it does the shutting down and then goes away, this is all very crazy to me but just trying absorb as much input as I can to sort it all out...

 

I think you should focus on the problem at hand, tackle that and then move on to the other issues. Stop clustering yourself

And you still didn’t calibrate the tps properly. Gently make sure it’s in the slot fully

 

I went and bought a multimeter and it won't register .5 at all and when I adjust at open the furthest I can get up is 3.4 with open throttle. I tested the multimeter to and it's correct so idk....I'll double check when I get off work though. I'll take off and start from begining just to get it crossed off the list

 

I had the same problem even after filing the slot to make it turn further. going back out to try again.

 

When you replace the tps you don’t just slide it in there. There’s a slot that it falls into. It’s more like put it in and twist a bit until you feel a drag, from the slot. Pull it out and it should make a soft click, that means it was in the slot properly.

And just to make sure you should be testing the red/blue wire only and ground it on the negative battery terminal. Strip the wire a bit so you can get a proper reading, but be careful not to cut into the wire.

Or you could’ve chipped the tps tab. Check on the back of the tps there should be a pointer, make sure it’s not broken off at all. This happened to me, and it wouldn’t calibrate properly.

 

Yeah I had to do a little wiggling when I put it on

 

I use a small mirror to see where the slots line-up before installing.

 

I will definatly try to do it all over when I get home. Is it possible it can bolt down and not be in slot?

 

Absolutely. If you simply try and align the TPS with the two bolt holes on the Throttle Body, it will NOT be in the slot. If you do as White_EG1 stated, you will align the tab/pointer of the TPS sensor into the slot of the Throttle Body, and THEN rotate the TPS into position so that you can put the affixing screws in place. From this point, you will be able to adjust it using the voltage method that you have described.

 

Well good news, that worked and everything is good now and now that motor is running smooth now I can work on getting my boost up, any advice? How can I increase my boost to around 7psi? It's spooling,you can hear it but I don't think it's actually boosting.the gauge maybe reads one or two, what's the best way to adjust my boost?

 

You need to take the car in to get a tune

 

Soo that what sucks is that I've been gone so long I don't have any resources when it comes to that. I want to hook up a laptop myself and explore...I'm sure everything will be familiar. My flex pipe on my down pipe (exhaust) has hole in it from dragging here and there, would that effect my boost?