So I got my car back and idiots tampered with it and cut out the OBD1 diagnosis plug in. The whole thing is cut out but I still have it and need to put it back. Does anybody have a diagram to tell me what wires go where to reinstall it. The box and all is still connected and plug in with ribbon. It's like a heavy red wire and two others that is where it was cut. I'll post pictures later as to what I have to reconnect. I want to adjust my boost and possibly tune but can't do nothing unless I reconnect that. The car has been sitting for a while and got motor running good but it's only getting two lbs of boost if that. Can anyone give me advice on what could be causing me to loose boost also

 

Once you have the pictures, I can give you diagrams for the 92-95 civic to get your wires in order. Did you confirm you have the same chipped ECU in the car?

 

Yes, here are the photos, you can see the three wires that have been cut from car

 

I don't think that is stock, and the relay (square box with 4 spades) looks to be like the alarm relay section of an aftermarket alarm.

The OBD1 diagnostic port (3 pin blue connector) and the 2 pin OBD1 plug both reside on the wire harness on the passenger side by the blower.

Are you dealing with a 92-95 civic or originally OBD1 del sol? Or is this aftermarket OBD1 in an OBD2 car with conversion harness etc? Your car info would be helpful.

 

So you mean to tell me the OBD1 IS ON THE PASSENER side under dash? I'll have to check more thoroughly,but to be honest you saying that is refreshing my memory a little bit. Anyways I've built so many Hondas my mind is running together. Like I've said I've been incarcerated for six years and this is only build I have left. I've recently reminded myself that the car has a D16Z6 SWAP.but if that harness is on passenger side then I'm estatic because I need to find out what code my car is throwing. But I don't think Ive seen one. I'm trying to peice everything together, or rather than redo and refresh my mind with this car.so if that don't look factory then what's with the OBD1 connector?

 

So now that you are speaking on things it's sorta refreshing my memory I've built so many, they run together. I've been incarcerated for six year and this is what I have left from my days.yhe car been sitting in my sister's yard that long and he husband obviously was messing with things not knowing. So if you say that a factory alarm thing ,then your sure the OBD1 IS where you stay, don't remember seeing during the rebuild but def look again....lol anyways let me know because I want to be able to tune again and also having issue with weird cut off when driving at low rpm but run stupid crazy on GO....

 

I understand.

Not factory alarm but aftermarket alarm is what it looks like.

The OBD1 connectors are passenger side right up under the glove box and the carpet kick panel by the heater blower fan box area. There is two plugs both being blue, one a 2 pin and the other the 3 pin. The two pin you short together to get your blink codes from the ECU.

The ECU should be chipped and may have it's own data connection spot for tuning. You may need to pop it open to refresh what was put in. Maybe it's a Hondata setup, or maybe a basic crome or neptune chip setup. Being able to pull the data from that with the right cable and software would be helpful for you. But first you have to decipher what you have.

 

I am going to go get a 9v batter for my multimeter to get the TPS calibrated and then I'm going to check what you just told me but I know Im not going to be able to pull any data because I got to get a new laptop but at least maybe can see what's up. My last turboed Honda did this same thing but it turned out to be a ground wire where I put new clutch in and didn't connect the ground back....but I've put ground from valve cover to thermostat and there heavy on from chassis to tranny but I don't see one tranny to block.....

 

So I went and got 9v battery to calibrate my TPS....can you tell me why I don't get no reading while closed and can't get it to go no higher than 3.4 when open and it's supposed to be .5 closed and 4.5 open.....so coyld this be hopefully my problem? I'm fixing to check ECU about the chip and OBD1 just wanted to get this 411 out there

 

Here's the ECU POPPED open, what can ya tell me......

 

Here's the ECU POPPED open, what can ya tell me......

 

Your TPS could definitely be giving you challenges. Should be .47 volt (if I remember correctly) to 4.7 volt. The lower end is the critical side and ending anywhere from 4.5 up is fine for WOT. You digital multimeter may not be giving you as accurate numbers as you'd like. Try taking the voltage of a new alkaline AA battery, you should get 1.5 volt. You can determine if it's off by .1 or .2 volt when reading small DC voltage. i.e. a brand new alkaline AA that reads 1.3 volt tells you your meter is off by .2 V so you should see .27 volt when closed.... I think many people round it to an even .5 volt for closed, it might be .48 volt, my memory is not as good as it once was.

Your ECU has a piggy back board. I don't know what type, I would think Hondata would have branded their board but it is indeed a piggy back system like Hondata not just your basic chip like Crome.

The corrosion on the case doesn't look good but likely hasn't affected the ECU. It is beyond my knowledge non the less. I will say the DIS168 part by the piggy back board looks like it may have fried. The contacts on the board for part of it are awfully black.

 

So I jumped the OBD1 with wire and it's was 7 long flashes and 8 short making it 78 ,that don't make sense, the only way it would flash a code was cranked ,when I did with key in ACC it would just turn light on. The CEL is not on but comes on when car stalls then goes away.....now if I rev the motor up and hold it steady at pedal the roms go up then back down and up and down....it wasn't doing that before....just when driving normal but would drive perfect at full throttle....this has me stumped for real. I thought about getting a new IAC because that's what it's acting like. But even when closed the meter wasn't reading anything. I tested the meter on battery and it was correct.....

 

So could this be idle air control by chance even though I cleaned it out?

 

Doing some digging, the only informative bit I found for CEL 78 was here.

It said something about battery module deterioration. But later in the thread, the guy found his chipped ECU was having issues from some shorted wires in his conversion harness. With the looks of your ECU, I wonder if something similar could be your culprit which does affect the way the engine runs as seen in the thread I linked.

 

That 'piggyback' board is the knock board. Nothing aftermarket. It's a P72 or P30 ecu.

The corrosion all over the bottom half of the ecu tells me the car has/had a water leak in that area. Check for rust holes around the bottom of the windshield and/or under the cowl allowing moisture into the cabin.

Ecu has been rode hard and put up wet. May be fooked from the corrosion. It looks like a previous owner may have replaced the power caps. Not sure why they are all smooshed and bent over. Other than that, it's been chipped and has a datalogging header added. No practical way to tell what it's been tuned with. Not terribly important unless you are trying to recover the bin file anyway.

 

So here's a update....I just decided to redo the TPS again because I couldt calibrate before and this time I could,.....that solved everything now I got to see if me reposition the hose clamps to seal the pipes better helped me get more boost, I'll know tomorrow but I'm trying to get it back to 7 psi....so any advice is welcome....can't I change the spring in wastegate? But it previously has it so it has to be some maintenance work huh?